Front end rebuilding • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 20 Aug 2002 13:36

Hey all, I'm planning to rebuild my front suspension next winter so I'm already looking for what to do.
Does anyone have good or bad experience with different types of material to rebuild the front end? Like OEM, poly-urethane or polygraphite... What are the likes/dislikes from your opinions?

I just recieved a catalog from PST and they say polyurethane flexes, makes noises and other parts will wear out more then normal. They advise polygraphite for the high performance (ab)use and otherwise OEM, but how much is the difference. Any opinions?

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 20 Aug 2002 14:47

The polygraphite squeek less and look like black rubber. Almost. I would not recommend anything else. In most cases they are easier to fit than the rubber originals. The LCA pivot bush is a very good example of this!

Why do I think your Challenger needs these?

Have you seen how the lower control arm is located on Mopars? Rubber bushes allow it to move backwards and forwards. If nothing else use polygraphite in the LCA pivot and the end of the brace where it fits into the front of the k-frame. But then you may as well use it in the UCA as well while you are on.

In the rear springs they help stop the axle moving sideways.

Go for it Hans.

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 20 Aug 2002 15:29

"Why do I think my challenger needs these?" well because my current bushings are propably 30 years old and totally worn. And then I mean the whole front suspension; every rubber boot & bushing is worn out. They were already when I bought the car but know the car's handling is getting worse so the time is right to replace them.

So that's why I want to buy the front end kit. From PST I guesse, they must be pretty good when they give 20 years warranty.

Thanks Dave, will follow your advise.

by **Robbert D 70'Chally (** » 21 Aug 2002 10:22

Hans, I mounted a PST front end kit this spring, and noticed a considerable improvement of handling and road holding. You will not regret this upgrade.

by **Hans (72challenger)** » 21 Aug 2002 16:56

Thanks Robbert, which kit did you ordered and how easy/hard was it to replace everything? I should get a big improvement cause right now it handles like *hit.

by **Robbert D 70'Chally (** » 21 Aug 2002 23:20

PST has only two kits for Challengers if I remember well, the plain "Polygraphite front end kit" and the "Polygraphite Super front end kit". I had only the first version, the latter consists of some extra parts such as ball joints and some bolts and stuff wich my car did not need. I had the kit free from the previous owner, he ordered it before selling the car to me.
Mounting was easy and took about an evening with four hands.
Challenger kit: $229.-, super kit $369.-
See http://www.p-s-t.com/

I don't think I have to tell you take care of your Challenger's wheel alignment and shock absorbers since your car handles so poorly? And when replacing the bushings, be sure to check the LCA thouroughly, you may easy overlook hard to notice tears or cracks if it is in the "inner box". You know what I mean if you have it in your hands. I have heard more than one occasion of cracks in LCA's (that includes mine).

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 22 Aug 2002 8:35

And if you replace the UCA ball joint you will need the special 3/4" drive socket for that.

It was the super kit I used.

The only fault with the kit I found was that a couple of the rubber ball joint covers/seals/boots (whatever you call them) split after a short time and there was not one for every ball joint in my kit so I had to re-use some of the old ones. A year later I replaced the boots with Energy Suspension Urethane tie rod end boots and have had no problem since.

I have heard complaints from a couple of people about the idler arm supplied by PST. Seems they are wearing out after only a few thousand miles. I told them to complain to PST about this. I don't know if the problem has been resolved.

I got my pitman arm and idler arm from Firm Feel and they have been fine.

Also check out Springs 'n Things http://www.espo.com/ before you order anything from PST. They are a good company and their prices my be a lot better.

by **Ron Morgan (Cartman)** » 30 Mar 2003 9:36

hi dave ,please can u advise me where i can get the bushes for the idler arm,rubber or polygrahite
(prefer)..needed in a relative hurry,as only failed mot on that it moves too much,and stated rubbers worn to excess....
or if anyones got any lying around,i will pay thegoing rate,and a drink,and courier collection..cheers all..rgds ron

by **Glenn Jackson (Henner)** » 30 Mar 2003 21:20

roppa440 said the polygraphite squeek less! Can some type of lube or greese be applied to these so they don't squeek at all? I plan on doing the same thing rather soon!

by **Dave-R (Roppa440)** » 30 Mar 2003 22:43

silicon grease

by **yaro** » 22 Dec 2003 15:25

Hi
I also want to rebuild my front end but I don't know how to press out (disassembly) the silentblocks from upper control arms. It looks that they have two flanges and inside the rubber inner bush. It seems that that bush is welded to flanges (or maybe it only stuck to rubber?).
I do not want to destroy these small metal parts because I want to replace a rubber by polyurethane and use them. (My friend has a shop and he produces polyurethane for many cars)

by **dave-r** » 22 Dec 2003 15:41

The bushes in the upper control arm have to be pushed out with a bearing press. Very carefully too as you do not want to bend the control arm!

There are pictures of this being done in the workshop manual I think?

I drew mine out by usling an assortment of scrap bits of thick wall pipe, heavy washers, sockets, and a long nut and bolt.

Pushing the new bushes back in is a little easier (but not a lot).

by **dave-r** » 22 Dec 2003 15:49

..and the bush consists of a rubber part inside a metal sleeve. This metal sleeve is the tight fit inside the openings on the control arms.

You know the trick with the lower control arm bush right?

The poly bush comes without the metal outer part. So you just take a blow torch to the old rubber and set fire to it. When it is hot enough the pivot just pulls out with the now soft rubber - leaving the metal outer sleeve in place. The poly bush is an easy fit after it has cooled and been cleaned up. The pivot just presses back in.

by **dave-r** » 23 Dec 2003 20:14

Here is the correct tool. My bits of scrap metal that I used looked something like this too.