[RedRaven]

So thought I would start a thread on this topic just to be sure to list the dos and donts of the job in hand.

Ok lets start with the reason why they need to be replaced.

I noticed a drop in water levels in the rad and drips of water on the deck from the driver side of the block. I thought it might be the water jacket at the boltings at the exhaust manifolds but I sourced the leak up to one of the plug hole on that side.

The ever fantastic Ade managed to source the correct brass high quality set for me in the uk so I have them with me and ready to do the job this week end.

As Ive never done the job before I need some pointers, some of it I know but any additional help would rock.

Drew told me not to stick my todger in the hole so I wont be doing that this time after the whole..."yeah Wayne, its a ritual and passage of rite that you run the car for 50 mins and then stick your todger in each of the exhaust pipes for exactly 5 mins per pipe, then the will really run well for you as you have mated".....Thanks Dave.....Had a scabby knob for 2 months after that....

Anyway back to work.

Drew and Ade did say to get some rad cleaner and fire it in and run for a wee bit to get all the gunk out of the system before I drain the system take out the bad plug and replace it.

I get the jist of taking out the old ones with a screw driver and spinning it to pull out and cleaning the ope to get rid of any shite left at the area. What should I use to clean the ope with?

Also a few light taps of a hammer on a piece of timber until the rim of the new plug is flush with the engine block plus a small bit of sealer to assist, any recommendations on sealer?

Am I missing anything obvious here guys?

Do I just do the bad plug or do em all with the whole set?

Any help as always is most appreciated.

[drewcrane]

Use your todger to check for leaks ,and the use it again after to check for leaks and then take a leak............

[Adrian Worman]

Where did you learn the word "todger" Drew? I thought that was an uniquely British form of slang!
Anyway in Ireland they call it a "lad", I know cos I seen it on Father Ted

Do em all that you can easily reach Wayne, if ones rotted thru then the corrosion is all over the inside of the cooling system and they ought to be done. You'll probably find that the rad flush will cause a couple to leak

[RedRaven]

Ok guys, I will give it a lash.....not with me Ladger.....lol

[dave-r]

The one that leaks more than the others is the one on the rear of the block that you can only get to by removing the transmission. So don't loose any plugs you don't use now because if one has gone the others will eventually follow.

Brass plugs shouldn't need any sealer but just to be sure it wouldn't hurt to smear a THIN coat of marine grade silicone around the edge.

Steel plugs I always coat completely on the back with marine silicone to try and stop them rusting out again. I insert them using a slightly smaller socket as a drift. But again, brass plugs shouldn't need that as they are so soft and should tap in easily with a bit of wood.

[RedRaven]

Now I am worried guys...

The gaffer managed a whole post without being sarky or insulting me....

It really is 2012......

The world will end soon..

Thanks Dave, doubt I would have the bottle to take off the transmission to access that one just yet eh.

[dave-r]

No but if you ever find water dripping out the bottom of the belhousing then you know what it is.

[Adrian Worman]

.......and you won't find it cos I nicked it out of the pack b4 I sent them cos that's the one I need for me 500" stroker build and I pulled it out to check it and forgot to put it back

Dont fret tho pal I'll shove in the post if you need it, it's much bigger than the rest and it's steel instead of brass.

[RedRaven]

AH no probs mate..at least I will know what the cause is and what to do to get to it to sort it out..thats the main thing eh.

[drewcrane]

Where did you learn the word "todger" Drew?
Been reading to to many Ireland/U.K posts you should see the look when I use those t erms here

[RedRaven]

You should see the faces on most nationalities around the world who speak their own tongue because they know you cant understand as what they are saying is most likely about you or they dont want you to hear. When we speak Gaelic they are like...WTF.....what language are you speaking...they cant make it out because like most eurpean languages they are latin based so they can work it out but not Irish....LOL.....

Go raibh mile maith agat.........

[drewcrane]

Go raibh mile maith agat.........

Hey you talkin bout me!

[RedRaven]

Ok chaps...

Going to go for that job today so doing a check of what I need to complete it.

Plug set..........check

Rad cleaner......check

Silicone.......check

Sandpaper.....check

Small hammer...check

timber block...check

screwdriver...check

One last thing guys...

Can somebody post a link to the type of rad cleaning fluid I need and how much of??

Also a brief breakdown of how long to run it for with the fluid in and where to drain it etc.

Any particular type of silicone a linky would be cool

and one more thing.... how heavya and how long do I clean the ope with the sand paper for?

I assume I will need to replace the water in the system and also the coolant....was it a 50/50 mix in that regard??

I will do a pic log of the job also.

Thanks Mofos..

[dave-r]

Wayne just pop into Halfords (or any motor accessory/part place) and find what you need. Just read the instructions on the product.

[dave-r]

and one more thing.... how heavya and how long do I clean the ope with the sand paper for?

WTF is an "ope"?

Sandpaper? Never use sandapaper on an engine. The abrasive comes off and ends up in your engine. Wet n Dry paper only. You don't really need anyone to tell you how to clean something off with paper do you? Think about what you are trying to achieve with it instead of blindly following instructions.

You will be asking how many strokes to pull on your dick next.

[RedRaven]

Gaffers back I see....

[drewcrane]

and one more thing.... how heavya and how long do I clean the ope with the sand paper for?

WTF is an "ope"?

Sandpaper? Never use sandapaper on an engine. The abrasive comes off and ends up in your engine. Wet n Dry paper only. You don't really need anyone to tell you how to clean something off with paper do you? Think about what you are trying to achieve with it instead of blindly following instructions.

You will be asking how many strokes to pull on your dick next.

Rolling on the floor...............the Gaffer is in the house

[dave-r]

How many times do i need to wipe me arse before pulling me trousers up?

[drewcrane]

How many times do i need to wipe me arse before pulling me trousers up?

Well dont use sand paper

[RedRaven]

So I went over to start the job and.........wait a minute..these plugs are too big. The leaky plug is between the exhaust mainfold and they are smaller.

Correct ones on the way....my fault entirely but hey...no probs, should do it this weekend....

Gonna do a complete flush of the system and clean it out as best I can. Probably needed to be done anyway so why not.

[Adrian Worman]

Think I'm ginna visit the parts primates on Wednesday Wayne, get em on the yacky daa express ASAP promise
If you're interested I posted some pix of my block in the thread 500 stroker have a look cos you'll see where those plugs go when the rest start leaking

[RedRaven]

OOOHHHH YYYYEEEESSSSSS...........
Post the pix mate...

[RedRaven]

Rad flush completed. New manifold gasket installed as old one was junked. Found two plugs in the hole at the leaking one. New plug installed and system refilled. Tighten up a few things and I will fire her up then jobs a guddin.

Drew did say I had a blow on that gasket at the manifold he was 100% correct.

[dave-r]

Good one Wayne. You are getting the hang of this car maintainance thing now.

Amazing that someone in the past has just banged a new core plug in without removing the old one first.

[RedRaven]

I put 8 litres on AF in and the rest water.

I still dont know what temp the system is because the temp gauge doesnt work. I need to know exactely where under the dash the connection is for that gauge to see if its loose.

[RedRaven]

What do you guys think eh?? Ade how does it look??

[drewcrane]

Your temp gauge works you just need a better wire/connection, on the sending unit under the hood, I remember checking the connection under the dash ,and it is solid it is your wire that has the wrong connector, easy fix

and as cool as it is over in the land of coolness , overheating, with new fluid will NOT happen,it better not happen

[Adrian Worman]

It looks cool mate,You done a good job
Bollocks to the temp gauge in the dash, they are crap even when working............get an aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge set off eBay and mount it under the dash, take you no time at all to fit and you can drive relaxed knowing the gauges are st least accurate !
Drews dead right, you'll never cook it over there anyway.
Get it filled and get it on the black stuff mate

[drewcrane]

It looks cool mate,You done a good job
Bollocks to the temp gauge in the dash, they are crap even when working............get an aftermarket oil pressure and temp gauge set off eBay and mount it under the dash, take you no time at all to fit and you can drive relaxed knowing the gauges are st least accurate !
Drews dead right, you'll never cook it over there anyway.
Get it filled and get it on the black stuff mate

All he needs is an electrical crimper to attach the correct connector for the sending unit,

I tried to solder it but we didnt have the correct solder ,so a crimp with the wire I sent you and it is fixed

[RedRaven]

Post me a nice shot of an decent electrical crimp job eh?