Wayne, I have never been able to bleed brakes well enough on my own and I have been bleeding brakes for over 30 years.
First of all. If that is a new master cylinder you HAVE to bench bleed it first as it tells you in the manual. It is the only way to get all the air out of that. You need a couple of short bits of brake pipe with the correct fittings for the MC on one end. I can send you a couple if you need them.
Second. As Eddie says you must start by bleeding the wheel furthest away from the MC and work your way back to the closest.
Loosen the bleed nipple a quarter to one half turn. Get someone to push down on the brake (not too fast but not slow either) and tell them to hold the pedal all the way down while you tighten the bleed nipple back up. Only then can they let the pedal back up. Then loosen the bleed nipple again and repeat until no air bubbles come out.
You have to check the fluid level in the master cylinder every now and again as each time the pedal is raised back up it draws fluid out of the cylinder.
If you do not close the bleed nipple before the pedal is raised back up it will suck air back in through the nipple.
The brake shoes need to be adjusted up to just before they start to cause drag on the wheel. But as the shoes may not be correctly centered when you pop the drum back on it is important to stamp on the brake a few time to force the shoes to self center. Then use the access hole on the back plate to check the adjustment again. Pain in the arse job that as you have to make a tool of some kind (from a wire coat hanger maybe?) to hold the auto adjuster off the start wheel as you pry it around with a screwdriver.
If the brakes drag slightly the drums will get real hot so if any drum does get very hot you need to back it off slightly.