Header Installation • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Trep01** » 27 Jun 2009 22:48

I finally have the engine and transmission back in my '73. It went in easier than I could have imagined. Everything is bolted in and she looks great. I'm just about to install the Dyno-Max headers I purchased but before I started I thought I would reach out to see if anyone has any pointers in terms of how to install them on a 340. Top down or bottom up.....I hope you enjoyed the before and after picutres. Thanks for the help....

by **dave-r** » 28 Jun 2009 9:46

By far the easiest way is to install the engine with the headers already attached in the same way the factory installed the engine which was from under the car with the engine already fixed to the K-frame and front suspension.

But as you already have the engine in the car you will have to get the front of the car up high and install the headers from under.
Small blocks are easier due to their small size so it may be that you will not have to jack the engine from side to side to get the headers in. On big blocks you have to jack the engine over to the passenger side to install the drivers side header and then jack it the other way to get the passenger side in.

Instructions some with the headers anyway.

by **bradburm** » 28 Jun 2009 17:28

Dave is correct and since I have become an expert on taking off and putting on the headers on my 340 (they are cheapo's and I wont buy new Doug's until the fall), I have the pleasure of pulling them off frequently due to exhaust leaks.....anyway since the engine is already in place all I can add to Dave's list is a glass and a bottle of Grey Goose or , Black Bush (Bushmill's), it sure make the job less stressful...............

by **Trep01** » 28 Jun 2009 21:52

I was afraid you would say that. I scoped it out in a bit more detail today and I can see what you're saying. Not allot of room in there even though it's a small block. I'll probably remove the engine mount bolts so I can lift the engine and inch or so to creat a bit more room. Looks like the starter and center link of the steering linkage will have to come off as well. I thought I was headed down the home stretch......silly me, huh?

by **dave-r** » 29 Jun 2009 7:36

You shouldn't have to remove the steering center link if you get the front of the car high enough so you can angle the headers as they go up.

Raising the engine an inch one side at a time so that the block rotates to the side is best rather than lifting the whole engine.

by **Trep01** » 20 Jul 2009 13:52

Headers are in but I have once more question. There are couple of braces linking my 340 engine block to the transmission (placed on each side of the block). The left header (driver) bolted on with no issues (the brace wasn't in the way). However, the right side (passenger) header hit the brace and therefore I had to install the header without the brace. Will this create an issue?

by **fbernard** » 20 Jul 2009 15:16

Trep01 wrote:There are couple of braces linking my 340 engine block to the transmission (placed on each side of the block).

Do you have any pictures of that???
Apart from the trans dipstick bracket on the right, I don't recall ever seeing those braces.

by **dave-r** » 20 Jul 2009 17:27

I have heard of these braces but they are often missing on small blocks. Probably due to headers being fitted I would guess.

by **Trep01** » 20 Jul 2009 22:41

Here's a picture....The brace would attach to the bell housing of the transmission and there one on each side of the motor.

by **Goldenblack440** » 21 Jul 2009 10:40

Yes we always got those braces on our SB's down here. Most people took them off, as they said they didn't do much except add weight. But they must have put them on for a reason. You can happily run the car without them, but it would be nice to know what research Chrysler did to warrant using them. I have always wanted to know that.