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   Cool
 Cool

drewcrane wrote:i did use my time up wilst the board was down
good eyes christor, im going to use headers anyway, but ill check it when it is light out to see if it is cracked, and yes i only use that carb cover as a cover and thats it! i to feel that the carb/maniofold is a little on the weak side for lifting an engine and trans at the same tome, also the sling with the pully,and long bolts that bottom out so i know they are seated, works the best in my opinion as it will roll ,and move and as you can see it is all intact,and it came out pretty easychrister wrote:drewcrane wrote:i did use my time up wilst the board was down
Is it a small crack on the front end of the left exhaust manifold? It looks like that.
It seems like you prefer to use two of the intake bolts instead of the four carb bolts when it comes to attaching the lift!? I have always thought that the carb bolts look so small, so I guess I would do the same thing myself.






drewcrane wrote:i did use my time up wilst the board was down
Here is the Primer Sealer application after it was applied. It's a single stage compound not requiring any activator, just strain and spray. The primer is Expoxy based and flows very well as drying is very short. It requires at least a 2mm tip, which this is rated at 1.8 but actually measured .082, which is a hair over 2mm.(Thanks to thier inaccurate machining it works fine!)drewcrane wrote:what is that stuff called?it looks smooth , do you have a better angle pic so i can see the texture, a tight focus shot
 It cleans up with soap&water. Fills deep voids and scratches. I concentrated the spray pattern towards the bottom, omitting the sides. It wasnt needed there. Tonight the coating goes on and I will post completed pics.
 It cleans up with soap&water. Fills deep voids and scratches. I concentrated the spray pattern towards the bottom, omitting the sides. It wasnt needed there. Tonight the coating goes on and I will post completed pics.


 As far as buying it, it must be purchased through a paint supplier. We get a 5% discount buying it through our school with student I.D. materials cost me 144.00 bucks. Thats 2 quarts of Zolotone 20, 2 quarts of zolotone primer sealer, 1 quart of Zo-Pol Clear. Not a bad price!
 As far as buying it, it must be purchased through a paint supplier. We get a 5% discount buying it through our school with student I.D. materials cost me 144.00 bucks. Thats 2 quarts of Zolotone 20, 2 quarts of zolotone primer sealer, 1 quart of Zo-Pol Clear. Not a bad price!  I didnt include 3m masking tape(2 rolls), 1 quart surface prep,(de waxer- de greaser), 1 quart solvent to clean paint gun. I'm off to coat it. The entire vehicle must be covered, as this stuff sprays everywhere(50-60 psi with pressure gun only must be used) and is almost impossible to remove, so covering the whole vehicle is mandatory! The urethane tuff rider,(sounds like a condom manufacturer LOL), might be a better choice for waterbourne operations,(mud bogging), as it's desigend for more damp water conditions. This is stuff is the more abrasion resistant of the 2 and it's 'OJ' proof! Blood has NO effect on it.(Page#2) LOL
 I didnt include 3m masking tape(2 rolls), 1 quart surface prep,(de waxer- de greaser), 1 quart solvent to clean paint gun. I'm off to coat it. The entire vehicle must be covered, as this stuff sprays everywhere(50-60 psi with pressure gun only must be used) and is almost impossible to remove, so covering the whole vehicle is mandatory! The urethane tuff rider,(sounds like a condom manufacturer LOL), might be a better choice for waterbourne operations,(mud bogging), as it's desigend for more damp water conditions. This is stuff is the more abrasion resistant of the 2 and it's 'OJ' proof! Blood has NO effect on it.(Page#2) LOL 


 
   It looks 'splotchy' due to the lens and it was shot at almost dark conditions. I'll get a better pic soon.
 It looks 'splotchy' due to the lens and it was shot at almost dark conditions. I'll get a better pic soon. 
