[drewcrane]

i think these are nice pieces fro 149.99 usd, i had a machinist make the areas for the pcv, and breather.

[dave-r]

Yes they do look very trick.

You would think they would do a version with the breather and PCV valve already fitted wouldn't you?

[Eddie]

I used a set of Mr. Gasket silicone grommets on mine with MP breathers, but am thinking I like Drews setup better. I got mine for 99.99!(440source had a 'blemish sale' and I snagged a set) Drew, what gaskets are you using? I like the no adhesive rubber coated steel.

[drewcrane]

Yes they do look very trick.

You would think they would do a version with the breather and PCV valve already fitted wouldn't you?

yes when i called them he sais all you have to do is drill out holes for pcv, and breather, so when i got them i realised that if i did just drill them out they would be to thin to seal up the grommets,so i had those pieces machined to accept the correct grommet, they should have put those provisions on there, i mean come on who would use these with some sort of ventilation, i have seen some peeps use 2 breathers with no pcv, i dont know how that works , i felt staying with a similar factory set up as close as possible

[drewcrane]

I used a set of Mr. Gasket silicone grommets on mine with MP breathers, but am thinking I like Drews setup better. I got mine for 99.99!(440source had a 'blemish sale' and I snagged a set) Drew, what gaskets are you using? I like the no adhesive rubber coated steel.

yes ed i did use the rubber/metal gaskets they are thick , the seal up well, and no glue, or adhesive,,how does your set up work for you ed , it doesnt leak ? the material seemed thin for the grommet, so you see what i have here,he also put some ribbes inside to hold the grommet,i had a set of the mopar performance covers, and me like an idiot i used a punch to remove the material, and doing so i removed to much material and they leaked,cause the grommet wouldnt seal , i should have used a drill but i was with out a brain that day , and then i learned the hard way cause they always seeped , and leaked and made a mess in the engine, oh well live and learn

[Eddie]

Yes they do look very trick.

You would think they would do a version with the breather and PCV valve already fitted wouldn't you?

yes when i called them he sais all you have to do is drill out holes for pcv, and breather, so when i got them i realised that if i did just drill them out they would be to thin to seal up the grommets,so i had those pieces machined to accept the correct grommet, they should have put those provisions on there, i mean come on who would use these with some sort of ventilation, i have seen some peeps use 2 breathers with no pcv, i dont know how that works , i felt staying with a similar factory set up as close as possible

NHRA requires locking breathers on any car quicker than 12.99 I think. Therefore, Brandon is probably setting them up the cheapest way he can for the majority of his customers, which are most likely bracket racers that use the sheetmetal style covers Drew. I am going to drill small holes on one side of my baffles to let the oil in when re-filling it with oil. The way it's setup now it would take all day to pour in a quart of oil! The baffles are very close in proximity to the top of the cover. I personally wont run an engine without a functioning PCV on the street, unless it has special piston rings,(gapless, dykes, gas ported ect), but then again those arent 'street' rings either!

[Eddie]

I used a set of Mr. Gasket silicone grommets on mine with MP breathers, but am thinking I like Drews setup better. I got mine for 99.99!(440source had a 'blemish sale' and I snagged a set) Drew, what gaskets are you using? I like the no adhesive rubber coated steel.

yes ed i did use the rubber/metal gaskets they are thick , the seal up well, and no glue, or adhesive,,how does your set up work for you ed , it doesnt leak ? the material seemed thin for the grommet, so you see what i have here,he also put some ribbes inside to hold the grommet,i had a set of the mopar performance covers, and me like an idiot i used a punch to remove the material, and doing so i removed to much material and they leaked,cause the grommet wouldnt seal , i should have used a drill but i was with out a brain that day , and then i learned the hard way cause they always seeped , and leaked and made a mess in the engine, oh well live and learn

Thanks Drew! Your engine Bay looks wicked man. Built for the turns and high reliability/ looks good too!. Thats my 'bag'. I havent used mine yet. I am saving them for the 500" Stroker I am screwing together, I bought them during Brandons 'Sale' he had last winter on some 'damaged' merchandise. The only damage was cosmetic. A very small scratch thats wont even matter to me because I am going to Paint mine Street Hemi Orange! I also bought an ARP 12 point Stud Kit for them as well.

[drewcrane]

man i almost thought about painting mine, i want to see yours when your done, they might look cool with some black wrinkle finish or something easy maintainence like that! thanks again for the compliment on the engine bay i have spent some time to make it show as well as go!

[drewcrane]

Yes they do look very trick.

You would think they would do a version with the breather and PCV valve already fitted wouldn't you?

yes when i called them he sais all you have to do is drill out holes for pcv, and breather, so when i got them i realised that if i did just drill them out they would be to thin to seal up the grommets,so i had those pieces machined to accept the correct grommet, they should have put those provisions on there, i mean come on who would use these with some sort of ventilation, i have seen some peeps use 2 breathers with no pcv, i dont know how that works , i felt staying with a similar factory set up as close as possible

NHRA requires locking breathers on any car quicker than 12.99 I think. Therefore, Brandon is probably setting them up the cheapest way he can for the majority of his customers, which are most likely bracket racers that use the sheetmetal style covers Drew. I am going to drill small holes on one side of my baffles to let the oil in when re-filling it with oil. The way it's setup now it would take all day to pour in a quart of oil! The baffles are very close in proximity to the top of the cover. I personally wont run an engine without a functioning PCV on the street, unless it has special piston rings,(gapless, dykes, gas ported ect), but then again those arent 'street' rings either!

i havent tried to add oil yet ,stay tuned

[Eddie]

Yes they do look very trick.

You would think they would do a version with the breather and PCV valve already fitted wouldn't you?

yes when i called them he sais all you have to do is drill out holes for pcv, and breather, so when i got them i realised that if i did just drill them out they would be to thin to seal up the grommets,so i had those pieces machined to accept the correct grommet, they should have put those provisions on there, i mean come on who would use these with some sort of ventilation, i have seen some peeps use 2 breathers with no pcv, i dont know how that works , i felt staying with a similar factory set up as close as possible

NHRA requires locking breathers on any car quicker than 12.99 I think. Therefore, Brandon is probably setting them up the cheapest way he can for the majority of his customers, which are most likely bracket racers that use the sheetmetal style covers Drew. I am going to drill small holes on one side of my baffles to let the oil in when re-filling it with oil. The way it's setup now it would take all day to pour in a quart of oil! The baffles are very close in proximity to the top of the cover. I personally wont run an engine without a functioning PCV on the street, unless it has special piston rings,(gapless, dykes, gas ported ect), but then again those arent 'street' rings either!

i havent tried to add oil yet ,stay tuned

Just make sure you didnt drink a lot the night before you attempt to pour that oil in Seriously, I think I am going to copy your setup Drew, I needed the clearance for my RAS Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arms, but want the sealing of the factory setup with PCV operation because I am using 1/16 standard tension piston rings, shooting for 1-3% leakdown tops,lol, and PCV is important for helping the engine seal well, especially at de-cel and cruising around,(when vacuum is high).

[drewcrane]

Yes they do look very trick.

You would think they would do a version with the breather and PCV valve already fitted wouldn't you?

yes when i called them he sais all you have to do is drill out holes for pcv, and breather, so when i got them i realised that if i did just drill them out they would be to thin to seal up the grommets,so i had those pieces machined to accept the correct grommet, they should have put those provisions on there, i mean come on who would use these with some sort of ventilation, i have seen some peeps use 2 breathers with no pcv, i dont know how that works , i felt staying with a similar factory set up as close as possible

NHRA requires locking breathers on any car quicker than 12.99 I think. Therefore, Brandon is probably setting them up the cheapest way he can for the majority of his customers, which are most likely bracket racers that use the sheetmetal style covers Drew. I am going to drill small holes on one side of my baffles to let the oil in when re-filling it with oil. The way it's setup now it would take all day to pour in a quart of oil! The baffles are very close in proximity to the top of the cover. I personally wont run an engine without a functioning PCV on the street, unless it has special piston rings,(gapless, dykes, gas ported ect), but then again those arent 'street' rings either!

i havent tried to add oil yet ,stay tuned

Just make sure you didnt drink a lot the night before you attempt to pour that oil in Seriously, I think I am going to copy your setup Drew, I needed the clearance for my RAS Stainless Steel Roller Rocker Arms, but want the sealing of the factory setup with PCV operation because I am using 1/16 standard tension piston rings, shooting for 1-3% leakdown tops,lol, and PCV is important for helping the engine seal well, especially at de-cel and cruising around,(when vacuum is high).

thanks ed i really didnt know the total use for the pcv but i did know that it was important on a street driven vehicle, i also made sure to put them in the front of the engine for hard pulls, and corners!

[Eddie]

Here's mine Drew. The breathers push right in but rub hard against the splash shield making them 'inoperative'. It even pushed in one of the splash shields getting these pics, but I am going to have to modify them for 100% Street usage anyways. I think I'm going to drill small holes in the shield, enough for the oil to flow through a litlle more easily but still provide some degree of 'splash protection'. One side will have another hole for the PCV, breather/oil fill. You can see the scratch under the 440source decal.50.00 off just for that. It 'bought' my ARP stud kit with the savings.

[Eddie]

#2 You can see where I broke the flimsy splash plate off. I needed to drill some holes in it to aid in oil flow. One way directional windage screen would be even better, with of course four Tig Tack welds instead of 2 , alloy is very soft isnt it?

[drewcrane]

Here's mine Drew. The breathers push right in but rub hard against the splash shield making them 'inoperative'. It even pushed in one of the splash shields getting these pics, but I am going to have to modify them for 100% Street usage anyways. I think I'm going to drill small holes in the shield, enough for the oil to flow through a litlle more easily but still provide some degree of 'splash protection'. One side will have another hole for the PCV, breather/oil fill. You can see the scratch under the 440source decal.50.00 off just for that. It 'bought' my ARP stud kit with the savings.

yes that look tight thats exactly what didnt want you can have someone maks the same things i have and raise them up ,and lower the splash shield, it look kinda like there is little or no gap between the plate and the cover, ill take a quick pic of mine from that angle be rite back

[Eddie]

Cool, thanks Drew. I have to keep in mind I am using these under those covers! RAS 440MAX Stainless, Bushed, roller tipped rockers, with ARP studs and Billet hold downs, standard port 440 B/RB spacing. I know they will clear but will be concerned about lowering the shield any lower.? I'll probably make a cardboard template first then if it clears I'll have my answer.

[drewcrane]

here it is

[drewcrane]

Cool, thanks Drew. I have to keep in mind I am using these under those covers!

just how high are those gonna go inside the cover? im using hughes 6:1 rockers,they clear just fine, but yours look pretty serious , so can you check clearence?

[Eddie]

Cool, thanks Drew. I have to keep in mind I am using these under those covers!

just how high are those gonna go inside the cover? tim using hughes 6:1 rockers,they clear just fine, but yours look pretty serious , so can you check clearence?

I wont need to. You have the perfect setup. A boss that the breather/fill tube/PCV fits into. I think I'll just make sure those shields are tacked in better, then get some alloy tube and fab my own. I like the threaded tube. It's simple and secure! Thanks Drew! (And to your machinist)

[drewcrane]

Cool, thanks Drew. I have to keep in mind I am using these under those covers!

just how high are those gonna go inside the cover? tim using hughes 6:1 rockers,they clear just fine, but yours look pretty serious , so can you check clearence?

I wont need to. You have the perfect setup. A boss that the breather/fill tube/PCV fits into. I think I'll just make sure those shields are tacked in better, then get some alloy tube and fab my own. I like the threaded tube. It's simple and secure!

good glad to help somw what, i feel you r knowledge about this stuff exceeds mine , i have an imagination, and i have to get my amx buddie to help all the time , as a matter of fact he was the guy who told me to have something fabricated so i dont screw it up, so i did learn some thing from you too thanks again ed!!!!!