New to the scene • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **jmaximum** » 12 Nov 2007 18:25

Hi there all-
My name is Jason and I am relatively new to the muscle car scene. I had a 73 Challeneger back in my college days (which was not 1973, but more like 95).
I love the Challenger style and just the mean look of it, and I recently found an R/T clone at a local dealership for sale. It has a 2-year old rebuilt 383 engine, all sorts of crazy work done to the transmission, and 91k on the car.
It looks like its in great shape, no leaks on the engine or tranny, no puddles underneath, and very MINOR rust under the door frames.
The asking price is $16000. Does that sound reasonable? I could really use some advice.
Thanks!

by **Eddie** » 12 Nov 2007 18:42

Welcome Jason, I applaud you on your choice of rolling stock. Challengers are a timeless design, can't go wrong there. I would carefully check the trunk area and the lower area behind the rear wheel wells, these where 'trouble prone' places for rust, you say they installed a 383 engine which is a big block. What type rear end is in the car? Do you know how to tell the difference between the 8 3/4 or other type of rear? Can you post any pics? How is the trim and interior?

by **patrick** » 13 Nov 2007 5:39

Hello Jason. What year is the R/T Clone? Earlier year's bring a lot more $'s. Later year's are cool too. I was set on getting a 1970 or 71. Never found one to fit my budget. Many say they're "Rust free" or "Number's Matching". What I found was a bunch of liars. Then, I found a 73 Rallye. The deal felt right. Matching #'s, No rust! :thumbsup:

I did quite a bit of research on this before purchase. And I'm still learning new stuff every day. I paid $21,000. :s006:

Good price for what I got. Sold my 73,340 Cuda' 11 year's ago for $2,500. :roll:

E-Bodie's are great investment's but, be carefull. $16,000 sounds pretty good for a solid car. Depending on what it is. Any more info? :wink:

Pat

by **dave-r** » 13 Nov 2007 8:39

You should read this before buying a Challenger Jason.

http://challenger.mpoli.fi/forum/viewto ... nginetrans

It shows you where to find the VIN in four places so you can check to see what the car was originally. Not shown though is where the dash VIN is in the drivers side corner of the dash.

Going from a "small block" to "big block" requires an upgrade to the suspension and brakes as well as the engine transplant.

by **patrick** » 14 Nov 2007 4:41

Sound advice from Dave, Jason. These thing's are very important, especially when it come's down to the price of the car. Basket case's and mix matches are cheaper. But, like I said before.... CAREFULL!!!! :s021:

A lot of people out there can and will pass these car's on as original. I came down to packing my own floor jack and stand's. Some one true to his/her word will help you look. Do your research, it will pay off. :thumbsup:

Example of a red flag: 1970 R/T, 440 Six Pack with a VIN#(JH23G2BXXXXXX) You'lle figure it out. Lots of help on this board. :nod:

Good Luck, Pat

by **patrick** » 14 Nov 2007 4:46

airfuelEddie wrote:Welcome Jason, I applaud you on your choice of rolling stock. Challengers are a timeless design, can't go wrong there. I would carefully check the trunk area and the lower area behind the rear wheel wells, these where 'trouble prone' places for rust, you say they installed a 383 engine which is a big block. What type rear end is in the car? Do you know how to tell the difference between the 8 3/4 or other type of rear? Can you post any pics? How is the trim and interior?

Also very good advice. :nod: