'73 challenger • 2 • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **dave-r** » 19 Apr 2007 9:28

christer wrote:
dave-r wrote:They also sell bits I would highly reccommend shuch as the "torque boxes" that the 440, 426 and convertible Challengers had welded in each corner of the chassis.

Isn´t that a bit of overkill considering that it is only a 318" car?
To repair rotten parts (if there are any) would make the body solid enough to handle the power from a 318".
Want more engine than that? Then a pair of sub-frame connectors would be a good idea!

If it were just about engine weight and power Chris that would be true. But even with "just" a 318 engine it is still a two ton car with a flexable chassis.
The cars basic construction was designed in the early days of American made unibodys. American cars have always used very simple and crude chassis designs which never change much over decades. Just look at Ford. Still producing cars with 50 year old chassis designs.

To make any Challenger feel "tight" on the road the chassis needs added strength. No matter what the engine size. You could leave it as it is of course. But if you are welding the chassis anyway it wouldn't be a bad thing to do.

by **christer** » 19 Apr 2007 9:48

airfuelEddie wrote:Or part it and make....

...naughty thoughts... :s021:

I would have agreed if it was a Ford or a GM

by **christer** » 19 Apr 2007 9:56

To add strength is always a good idea, but maybe not the first thing to consider unless you have racing in mind. I think it is easy to get carried away and don´t know where you are heading. If you want a daily driver then I think it is good enough if you do necessary repairs and so on. It all depend on what you want to do with the car as we have discussed dozens of times.

by **dave-r** » 19 Apr 2007 10:20

Maybe I am just too fussy about how well a car drives and holds the roads.

I do tend to drive too fast.

by **Eddie** » 19 Apr 2007 13:36

christer wrote:
airfuelEddie wrote:Or part it and make....

...naughty thoughts...

I would have agreed if it was a Ford or a GM

Easy Christer, you don't know me very well, my car was in much worse shape than that! I was just indicating that the cars value is worth much more than the asking price. I wouldn't do that to such a solid car! I do have naughty thoughts :mrgreen:

but hacking up nice old challengers isnt' one of them my friend! :thumbsup:

I dont know where "junker" lives, but you WONT find any Dodge Challenger of any year in that condition for 2100.00 U.S. dollars. PERIOD! Run don't walk!! I also would make the mods that Dave is describing, it will need repair anyway, why not make the car handle as a modern car would,(unit body with structural frame support), handling and braking come first, then power. If N-96 1970 Challengers ever "tank" as far as value, then mine is getting XV contoured connectors and Koni dampers. :s019:

by **christer** » 19 Apr 2007 15:17

dave-r wrote:Maybe I am just too fussy about how well a car drives and holds the roads.

I do tend to drive too fast.

Not many things are nicer than a fast, well handeling car.

A curvy, good-looking woman maybe?

by **christer** » 19 Apr 2007 15:24

airfuelEddie wrote:I also would make the mods that Dave is describing, it will need repair anyway, why not make the car handle as a modern car would,(unit body with structural frame support), handling and braking come first, then power.

I would be furious of joy if I got a running Challenger at the age of 18, wouldn´t you? :wink:

I would settle with that for at least a few months... :twisted:

airfuelEddie wrote:If N-96 1970 Challengers ever "tank" as far as value, then mine is getting XV contoured connectors and Koni dampers.

Nice items you are thinking of!

Oops, did I begin to daydream again? :mrgreen:

by **Eddie** » 19 Apr 2007 19:06

About the curvy girl or the Chally? Or both? :lol:

Hey Christer, if he buys it maybe we can convince him to make a Dick Landy Tribute Pro Stocker as seen in this edition of MoPar Muscle Magazine,(the front cover!). I think it's a 73-74 Challenger! :mrgreen:

by **junker** » 21 Apr 2007 16:12

looked at it again today. driver side front sub frame is broken and rusted through from front wheel well forward. can this be fixed easily. used a magnet to check body, not as bad as i thought. son said go for it but i dont know yet.not familiar with sub frames may back away. if i do airfuel Eddie has first dibs

by **Eddie** » 21 Apr 2007 16:34

Junker, as mentioned, check with auto rust technicians out of Cranston R.I. I think. They should have everything you need for the repair, if you lived close to them, they would properly install them also! Or if you knew of a welder/fabricator that could cut out the old stub then weld in the new. Thanks on the "dibs" and Good Luck, I think it's still a terrific deal. You could install a MoPar crate 360 in 320,395,435 H.P. or get a little wild and install a modern Fuel injected 5.7 6.1 or 426 GENIII Hemi available from a variety of sources, 6-speed Tremec,(Keisler), 8 3/4 with 4.10 and it would be an excellent and quick, good looking, road car!! :thumbsup:

by **junker** » 21 Apr 2007 17:51

true or i could just leave the little 318 in with 2 plug wires off for the first couple years. first car for a sixteen year old........dont need speed

by **dave-r** » 21 Apr 2007 18:40

A guy in my car club bought a charger that needed a new chassis leg on the front drivers side. He sourced one (all b & e-bodies are the same I think?) and welded it in himself. Turned out fine.

by **Eddie** » 21 Apr 2007 22:44

Junker, I can understand your apprehension. The 318 would make an excellent cruiser and still have V-8 Power, not a bad package for a 16 year old. I lied to my parents about my first car. I told them it was a former circus car and had a goofy big wing mounted on the trunk lid, they "bought it" until I brought it home! :mrgreen:

I never did tell them about the 440 6bbl induction or that King Richard drove one for a living :mrgreen:

In 1973 it didn't matter anyway. Dave is correct and the b-body would of course be easier to find. If not, Stephens Performance or Texas Acres comes to mind if you want a used one. If you do buy it and remove the K-member, make sure and "douse" the k-member bolts with wd-40 through the holes conveniently located on the sides of the stub near the front,(on the good side at least). You dont want to replace both sides!

by **junker** » 22 Apr 2007 2:33

after much thought i have decided to pass on this one. will keep looking but he would be better served with a 4X4. we live in the hills and winters can be rough without 4 wheel drive. thanks for all the advise.

by **Eddie** » 22 Apr 2007 14:48

Can you forward me his number?

by **junker** » 22 Apr 2007 16:49

yes but let me check with him first. he works nights this week so may be a day or so

by **junker** » 22 Apr 2007 17:44

email address for owner is crazyhorse11@alltel.net

by **Eddie** » 22 Apr 2007 22:17

Thanks Junker, appreciate that man. I am busy too with the store opening and I am going to try and contact him Tomm. I can't believe I am doing this again. Like I need a another money pit! Oh well you only live almost once! :mrgreen:

by **junker** » 04 May 2007 1:00

airfueleddie has passed on the challenger, is anyone else interested