Trunk Weather Stripping • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Pat Hartley** » 23 Mar 2007 4:49

What do you guy's think of YearOne's after market stuff. I have a 73 Challenger and ordered the year correct seal. My trunk lid hasn't fit the same since. I even readjusted the trunk latch. Now I still have to SLAM it shut, wich makes me cringe. And the trunk lid sit's a quarter of in inch higher in the back. Should I go with a more generic style weather stripping? I live in the Pacific North West but, it's been five month's, and it hasn't relaxed yet. Has any body else had this problem? Wondering why in Washington State: Pat

by **dave-r** » 23 Mar 2007 8:56

If it sits high at the back edge just use the mounting bolts to adjust that.

I don't see how the seal pushed to rear up unless the bolts were loose?

Once you have the trunk lid sitting level then adjust the latch so that it locks at the correct height at the front.

I have a seal from Year One which I bought about a year ago and it is fine.

Unless they have either changed the seal manufacturer or given you the wrong seal?

by **Jon** » 23 Mar 2007 20:40

I don't think the seal will relax. Mine has been the same for the past 18 years. Coincidentally this past week while installing new quarter and deck trim I adjusted the latch lower but, as you said it now must be SLAMED closed. :s020:

Both the hinge and the latch side are is still lifted though.

If you didn't changed anything but the WS, as I, this maybe the problem. Can you get the latch side to align correctly?

by **Pat Hartley** » 11 Apr 2007 2:52

Success!!!!: I finally got my 1970-71 trunk weather stripping from Year One. It fit's perfectley in my 1973.

I'm not sure why the two are so different. The seal is tight and the trunk is lined up perfect. Most importantly, I don't have to SLAM :shock:

my trunk lid so hard to get it shut. Word's of advice. If any of you 72-74 owner's out there need to replace your trunk weather stripping, don't pay extra for the year correct stuff, you'll be much more happy with the 70-71's. By the way, Y.O. doe's have great customer service. have a good one, Pat

by **Jon** » 11 Apr 2007 12:05

Thanks for the followup Pat.

I'm going to order a new one for mine. Any tips to remove the old glue?

by **Pat Hartley** » 12 Apr 2007 2:40

Hello Jon: Sometime's that old glue is a real pain. I was advised by my local auto body guy to use paint thinner and a scraper. Yike's!

But since he knew my plans for the car, it made sense. In the near future my car is going to get a super gloss Black makeover. My car is FY1, Top Bannana now. Was JY9, Dark Gold Metallic. It got the FY1 treatment over eleven year's ago and is showing some road wear but no rust issue's. Not wanting to see my paint shriveled and scraped, and also wanting to get a few more year's out of the existing paint before I start sanding and priming, I used a product called GOOF OFF:The Ulimate Remover. It took many applications, and a lot of patience. The stuff softened the glue and I was able to eventually get it all off with no mess. Unfortunately, in removing the origanal weather stripping, some of the yellow paint came off and revealed the JY9. Since I'm going Black anyway, I sanded the trunk lip, primed it and painted it Satin Black. Look's good and Matches the finish underneath my trunk lid. Wich got painted after I removed sound deadener and pealed yellow paint there as well. Darned kid's and thier 2500 watt stereo's. I love loud music but, I like the use of my trunk too! Good Luck with the 70-71 stuff, you won't be dissappointed. Pat

by **Jon** » 12 Apr 2007 14:43

I'm with you. My paint is running a little thin but don't want to take the car off the road to do a full on restore. I shot it in laquar back in 89 and with buffing and polishing over the years some primer is showing through.

One good thing about the laquar is you can repaint sections, color sand and buff to match. I saved 1/2 gallon and have used it over repairs along with refinishing the gravel chips on the rocker and lower quarter panels. I imagine removing the old WS adhesive will provide another opportunity. :s020:

by **ianandjess** » 13 Apr 2007 11:43

gday i was always led to beleive that they use a heat gun & scraper in the industry (i spent a couple of years in a panel shop ) im no expert but im pretty sure that works well
cheers ian

by **Jon** » 13 Apr 2007 13:58

Thanks Ian. :thumbsup:

I don't own a heat gun but my wife has a hair dryer. Do you think that might work ok.

by **ianandjess** » 13 Apr 2007 23:40

hair dryer might be ok but it may burn out as you will have to hold it close to the job to get enough heat hair dryers seem to need the hot air to flow out freely or they dont last long
cheers ian

by **Challyride** » 15 Apr 2007 15:33

Just a heads up, Heat guns are very cheap these days. I just bought one for 10.00$. good luck.

by **Jon** » 15 Apr 2007 16:24

Thanks, I didn't realize they were that cheap. Another new tool for the shop. :thumbsup: