[Challenger R/T]

I think I may have found the 70 Challenger R/T I was lookinhg for and now just need some input about fair price, what i should look for in more detail and any other pitfalls to avoid.
The car is a Matching number 70 Challenger R/T 383 Magnum with pistol grip 4 Speed. It's burnt orange with the need for a new coat of paint with minor nicks and scratches. It is a Rust free car
The current owner has reciepts that show.... front brakes converted to disc.. Disassembled body to bare shell ,removed engine,front suspension,dash board,and sheet metal,Sand and painted engine compartment,refit front sheet metal and doors. Rebuild front suspension. Rebuid dash board wiring harness and under hood wiring. This summary included a long list of parts like gas tank, sender unit,fuel lines rebuilt calipers tie rods dipstick kit motor mount plates etc.etc. with a cost of about $5300 That was in 2001.
In 2003 R&I differential,replaced pinion seal and carrier gasket,clean and install suregrip carrier, used 323 differential,R&I trans and clutch cover,overhaul tansmission, replace bearings refill fluids etc. cost about $600.
Being a newbie some of this is greek and just need another opinon. He is asking 19,000 for the car.

[Christer]

Well, buying a used car is not a very easy task. You can fall into a number of traps. The most important things to look for are rust and to see if the car has been smashed. The most common areas where there use to be rust are the firewall, the front floor, under the vinyl roof and the trunk floor.

Don´t spend ALL your money on the car. It is a wise thing to have some extra money who hopefully will cover unforseen costs.

It is almost always better to buy a more expensive car in the first place (compared to a car that needs some repair). To repair and to buy parts are VERY costly.

Test drive it thoroughly before you decide whether you like it or not.

Try to use the brain (and not the sences) when you do your decision.

Watch out for vibrations, noice, leaking headders and so on.

Don´t trust the seller! Check it out yourself instead.

Bring a friend (preferably a friend that knows Mopars)! Four eyes see better than two.

and so on and on and on......

Good luck!

[pink panther]

Tropical cats,
Christer is right. I have a completley restored and heavily modified 73, I'm going to purchase another 73 that has become available and intend on doing most of the work myself. I would not take this chance if I didn't already have a restored car.

Please,Please check the trunk pan. In the USA you Can't find anyone to weld in a new trunk pan. Also look at the frame rails., since the challenger is a uni body ( i hope that is right) you can't do a frame off resto. Meaning the fraim rails anmd body are joined as one. A lot of times new pieces of steel are welded into the existing fraim rails.

Christer, I hope I explained that correctly.

[Christer]

Thanks for reminding me of the frame rails, pink panther. It is very important that they are in good condition, of course.

[822]

I would be weary of a car that has had all its wiring replaced or rebuilt..........hmmm that means under the hood problems, but that being said, if all the gauges and things work......then ok. replacement of sheetmetal is ok if done right. gomangoRT/SE

[822]

I might add the best asset is that the car is numbers matching.......it makes it a better risk. And down the road will be more marketable. My car is Go mango and lighter in color. I would rid the car of that hot rod intake manifold and go back with as close to original as possible.......but everyone has their opinion........ Collector and those who appreciate matching numbers cars like to original original original.....ok for some extra camshaft........ I am like most and believe original exhausts are best........headers give a few more HP at high RPMS but for everyday driving....cant beat the HP manifolds available. usually headers leak out the rear too............fyi.......