[Jack T]

My 440 has been sitting for a year that I know of with no fluids in it. What should I do to make it ready to start and run the first time? Will the seals need to be replaced or should I just do that while it's out of the car for the engine compartment paint as a matter of course? Should I have hardened valve seats put in? It's a 1970 440 Magnum and I want to get it right the first time.

[alex]

If the motor has been dry, I would be concerned about the seals and the head gaskets, worhwhile changing these before you run it, as for the seats, it's really a must with modern fuel, also don't overlook the valves, most engines I work on that have failed see off the valves , sometimes more severely than the seats, think about stainless ones, then the motor will be safe for years.

[Jack T]

I suspected as much. I have to remove the intake manifold, an Offenhauser dual quad, to replace it with a stock intake anyway, so I guess I'll just tear the whole thing down and do everything to it - check the bearings, timing chain and gear wear, cylinder wear, replace freeze plugs et al and have the engine in really good shape when it goes back in. Thanks for the tip on the valves, too.

[Don Holton]

I am attempting to decode the engine block on my Brother-In-Laws 1970 Challenger 6 pak. Car is a V code and all numbers match on car except the engine including the 4 speed, fender tag, cowl stamping and broadcast sheet. I know that the engine is at least a service replacement as all of the information that is on the block plate is as follows:
H440
8 13
That is all of the numbers on the block no partial serial numbers nothing. I believe that the H stands for the engine assembly plant but I can not find this information anywhere let alone the 8 13 below it. Any ideas?? Thanks!!

[dave-r]

What is stamped into the machined flat above the oil pan on the passenger side?

The numbers 8 13 could be the date the engine was assembled (August 13th)

[frank]

The H stands for the yr 1970 was F so yours is a 72 but what dave added will give you more info on the engine, although i heard the replacement engines were left w/out any sort of stamping on the machined spot above the pan on the pass side.

[bruce]

I have a 68 440 and I have tried to stop a leaky valve cover on the right side I have tried rubber cork and also mopars hi pro gaskets and so far have not been able to stop it from dripping oil onto the headers and making puffs of smoke dose any one have a suggestion thanks BRUCE MY E MAIL ADD MOPAR64440@NETZERO.NET

[dave-r]

It could be your tightening technique. If you dont tighten them in the right order and all the same you can warp them and cause a leak.

Check that it is flat by putting it on a flat surface (glass or something will do). If it is bent fix it first.

I like to use the thick rubberised gaskets. I also use the cast MP covers because they are strong and don't warp so easily. Plus I need them anyway to sit over the big roller rockers.

I like to glue the gasket to the valve cover with bathroom sealant. When it is good and dry I mount them on the engine with hex-head screws. You need longer than stock with the MP covers and thick rubberised gasket.

I made a tool by welding an allen key (just the straight bit) into a 1/4" drive socket of the correct size. I then use the 'screwdriver' type 1/4" drive that came with my socket set to run the screws in.

I start by getting the four centre screws gently nipped up and then the outer two. Then I nip up a little at a time from the centre outover, up and down always leaving the end two until last until I can't get them any tighter without the 'screwdriver' handle slipping in my hand. This gets them torqued up about the same all round. I then stick a ratchet on my tool and give each one just less than a quarter turn more.

I think the correct torque setting is only 40in/lbs or something but have never needed to use a torque wrench on these myself.

[Joel]

Finding a in/lbs torque wrench is a little bit of challenge. I have looked for one at the local True Value, they did not have one. Anyone who might be reading this, preferably someone in the States and on the west coast, could you tell me where I could get one, a in/lbs torque wrench, the nice kind that click twice when you tighten to the selected measurement, not the ones that have the dial with a metal pointer.

Thanks!

[russell]

hi,i am from new zealand and have just brought a tractor with a 440 in it,boy does it go.i have never done much with chrslyer v8s so nheed some info.
we want good torque with a max of around 6500rpm,can anyone suggest a cam,manifold and any
other basic tips,thanks russell

[russell]

hi,could someone please tell me the torques for head bolts,rocker shaft,big ends and main bearings.also can u recomend a good book or manual
that is about working and rebuilding 440s,one last thing,what horsepower did they come out with from the factory and what horsepower can u get out of them,cheers russell

[SF]

Joel. I have several. Two are dial type and one click type. The click one is from Sears. A bit spendy, but works great. I think it goes from about 15 in-lbs to 300 in-lbs

[dave-r]

Russell.
Look on my 'VIN' page to see how to identify the block and buy a manual for a mopar of that year. It will have all the spec in it.
Look on Amazon.com for books on rebuilding mopar engines. There are a few.
Most 440s had 375hp as standard. Some were 390hp. The amount of power you get out of them is in direct proportion to the money you have to spend. I have about 550hp in my street car. Race cars have 1500+hp 440 engines.

[frank]

joel your in the states right? if so try a snap-on or mac truck, but the sears way will be cheaper!

[russell]

thanks dave for your help,we are hoping to get up to 700/800 hp.will look into those books.
wouldnt mind knowing were to get some photos of just 440 engines,thanks russell

[dave-r]

Russell.
Check out http://www.hughesengines.com/

I have nothing but praise for this firm.

[dave-r]

I just checked their site and they are a bit short on power with their kits. Might still be worth phoning them and having a chat though because they do other stuff as well. Their top 440 kit is only 635hp but these are just their kits and are mostly street/strip.

[dave-r]

Thinking about this I think the best way to get those sort of power levels (700-800hp) is to use a supercharger on a milder engine.

[Joel]

Thank you very much Frank and SF. There is a Sears at the mall in Bellingham, WA. It is a 15-25 min. drive south from where I live. Though, I do see Mac and Snap-on Trucks running around my part of the country quite frequently. There must be depots near by. The farm on which I work on is right next door to a custom hot rod manufacturer, Pyrimad Inc., where a Snap-On truck visits frequently.

You know, I have seen some weird stuff coming out of that shop. One that comes to mind and one that I must share with you, was a C***y Silverado extra cab long bed duely with a supercharger and lowered quite low. Tipical of people who love c***y, doing stupid things with their money. I think that the guy who had the thing built for himself should have thrown the money into buying a boat or a private plane or something like that, another bottomless pit of the sorts.

[Dallas]

I need some help determining the horsepower of my newly rebuilt 1970 440 R/T. I have no access to a dyno and I'm getting all kinds of (unprofessional) opinions. From the top,down-750 double pumper w/K&N air cleaner. Edlebrock RPM Performer intake. Polished & ported heads w/ 2.14/1.81 valves. 1 7/8 headers. Underdrive alum. pulleys. MOPAR electronic ignition. KB flat top pistons(10:1 comp.) 284-484 hyd. cam. 60 gph fuel pump. Bored .30 over and crank turned .10 under. I know it's strong,but how strong???

[dave-r]

Go to a public weigh bridge and get the car weighed with you in it. Then go to a drag strip and make a few runs. Tell me what your best MPH (not ET) is on the quarter mile and I can work out from that how much power you have at the rear wheels.

Horsepower is not a matter of adding bits to your engine. You can't add headers and say "that gives me 25hp more and that carb gives me another 20 so that is 45hp over stock". It does not work like that. Power is made by the bits you have working together as a team. The combination of parts you have will give you more power than stock but how much more depends on how well the port size and flow in your heads matches the carb/headers/exhaust as well as the cam. How well is the carb set up? You could gain or loose a lot of power in just that one part.

Come to think of it if your engine builder does not have a rolling road dyno how the hell has he set your car up for max performance?

PS. Dump the double pumper and get a 750 vacuum secondary jetted the same.

[Dallas]

Don't be bashful Dave,just go ahead and trash one of the nicest challengers you've ever seen!!! I don't even know what a weigh bridge is,much less where to find one. My car weighs the same as any other '71 challenger,less about 25 pounds I took off in aluminum engine parts. I weigh 196 lbs. My average time(3 slips) in the 1/4 was 13.4 at 103.6 mph. I'm 52 years old and it could probably be a little better if a younger stud with better reactions were driving. That was also on street radials. No engine builder in my area has a rolling dyno. Why do you think I should can the dbl. pumper?? She seems to be pretty strong with it. She is definitely not starving for fuel and is not loading up at cruise speed either. I have a 750 "Street Avenger" I could try on her if you think it would improve her overall performance. My wife says I'm not going to touch her now but she won't know the difference anyway!!!
Dallas

[Dallas]

My car is featured on 440magum-network.com this month. She is on the Mopars of the Month section. Shes the purple 1971 Challenger R/T. Tell me what you think.
Dallas

[Christer]

Lovely car! But no rallye instrument cluster?

[dave-r]

Trash it? No way man. I will see if I can find it later.

You will have no performance gain from replacing the double pumper with a vacuum secondary. The double pumper is the best carb for drag racing if you are a good tuner which it sounds very much like you are not. You told me you would be spending most of your time on the street. In that case a vacuum secondary will work better for you. It will take less setting up, be better at part throttle, and give much better mileage. Without a rolling road or a lot of monitoring devices on your car I doubt very much if it is tuned up to it's full potential.

This is not just my opinion. It is fact. If the laws of physics don't suit you then please don't hold it against me.

A 1971 Challenger can weigh anything from about 3700lbs to over 4200lbs depending on options and or modifications as well as driver weight.

Your reaction time and traction have litle effect on your mph at the finish line unless you were not at full throttle at some point. That is why I asked you for your best mph not your average. If use 104mph and we assume your car is 4000lbs with you in it then your Challenger is making 350hp at the rear wheels. Maybe 420hp at the crank. Obviously if your car is lighter than 4000lbs it is making less power - more if heavier.

[dave-r]

I just noticed it was a 1970 Challenger in your first post and then it changed to a 1971 model in your second post! Looks doubtful it is an R/T if it has not got a rallye cluster unless it was replaced at some point. The 420 crank hp figure I quoted above assumes you have an auto trans.

I can't find this web site with the photos of it. Can somebody print the full address for me to click on. I wanna look!

[Dallas]

It is a street car and I am not an engine tuner. I have a buyer for the pumper,so off she comes. The better gas mileage sounds really good to me. My best mph was 104.7,so the estimate you made should be pretty close. I've had estimates ranging from 425 to 470. There was a Hemi-Cuda at the track that same day and the best he could do was 101.5,and he was 25 years younger. He was also running headers,a new cam and roller rockers. I felt pretty good about my car after that. I won't run her at the track again. From now on,its cruising and car shows for her. I guess theres one exception to that,though. If some smart ass in his 5.0 mustang pulls along side and starts acting up,I will have to put him in his place!!! Thanks for the help.
Dallas

[Dallas]

Dave,I checked the address and found a mistake. Sorry!! It's 440magnum-network.com. It's the purple "71" challenger thats posted on mopars of the month.

[Dallas]

She is a clone. I have not finished her yet. I am building a challenger that I like from my two favorite years. She is titled as a '71,but has a rear spolier from a '70 T/A,an R/T hood from a '70 R/T and a 440 motor from a '70 R/T. Her rally cluster was taken from a '71 and will be installed when I put in her new dash cap. This is my personal challenger and she is not built to please ANYONE else.
Dallas

[dave-r]

Found it! It was my dyslexia that made me miss the fact that there was an 'n' missing in the address you printed first!

I have to say she does look smart Dallas.

If you change the carb try installing a rich/lean indicator and play with the jetting. There is a 20% fuel flow difference between best power and best economy!

Good luck.