xv frame connectors

by **botari123** » 04 Dec 2007 0:20

got my xv motorsport connectors
very nice parts
needed some fitting but well worth the money
206 bucks to my door
got 1 welded in
here some more pics

by **dave-r** » 04 Dec 2007 10:15

If you haven't drove a Challenger with frame connectors before you will be amazed at the difference. :thumbsup:

by **christer** » 04 Dec 2007 10:54

It all looks very neat. Almost like it came from the factory that way. It is nice to see the fit of the XV subframe connectors.

by **Eddie** » 04 Dec 2007 19:58

Way to go Botari, although I have never driven a frame connected unit body car, wish I could, it has to make a huge difference as Dave says. :thumbsup:

by **drewcrane** » 05 Dec 2007 16:31

yes dave you are right it is a totally different car , i have the xv connectors and they are a nice fit, as they fit flush with the frame, and like i said i kinda havr to learn to drive the car again (not that im a good driver ) it is a totally different feel of the car! :thumbsup:

for xv i plan on using there fron fender area support as well as the engine compartment braces!

by **dave-r** » 05 Dec 2007 17:47

I very much doubt the latter two will make a lot of difference to be honest. Despite what they claim.

The K-frame holds the front of the sub-frame together.
Our cars came with diagonal braces under the fenders.
The brace they sell that goes across the engine bay would only really be needed in a McPherson strut car where flex at the top of the inner fenders would cause changes in camber/caster. Only the shock absorber is located by the inner fender on our cars which really does not matter and does not effect steering geometry.

In other words, most of it is bull to impress people with money to spend on bits they don't need. :wink:

by **drewcrane** » 05 Dec 2007 20:36

i m glad i brought it up cause i can see what your saying, and agree, how ever what i have found is that when i put 17 in wheels i have more front end , or feel than with the 15 in wheels but i also feel that for a street car (mostly intended to be) i need a little flex for overall driving comfort, to stiff and its a chore to drive ,but the look cool and it is more money which now that you said that i probably wont get them , so you made my decision easy,i dont need a race car, per say

by jr » 05 Dec 2007 20:46

http://www.xvmotorsports.com/media/Chas ... fening.wmv
http://www.xvmotorsports.com/products/d ... 20Products

XV's advertisement video and webpage. Of course that's probably with their own front suspension setup and not with stock K-frame.

by **botari123** » 05 Dec 2007 21:10

glad to hear all the feedback
have not driven my car so will have nothing to compair
just glad it is worth the effort

by **drewcrane** » 05 Dec 2007 22:29

yea those videos are kinda weird , but it looks to stiffin things up a bit , but how is it on pot hole ridden streets ? probably pretty rough, i had a duster i stiffened the so much i cracked windshields,major connectors were having little cracks develop etc.etc.

by **botari123** » 06 Dec 2007 0:51

looks like a frame now
both connectors are in

by **drewcrane** » 06 Dec 2007 1:25

one more step , many more looks sweet keep it going and keep me posted! :thumbsup:

by **Eddie** » 06 Dec 2007 13:59

Looks very sturdy, good job!!

by **johannes** » 11 Feb 2009 5:53

Hi.
I see that it's been a while since this thread was written, but I hope someone can provide some more info, like ;

Any interference between the new subframe conectors, and say P-brake wires, etc ????

What are my chances of getting such parts decently installed using a lift and MIG welder ? (as oposed to having the car upside down on a jig, and using TIG) ?

What length / weigth will the parts have ? (I'm currently on hollidays, and is concidering bringing these parts with me in a suitcase..)

Guess installing such connectors would have large influence on a convertible ehh ?

Guess I can call the manufacturer, but if someone here can help, I would appreaciate it...

Thanks;
JB

by **fbernard** » 11 Feb 2009 11:46

johannes wrote:Any interference between the new subframe conectors, and say P-brake wires, etc ????

Parking brake wires (mock the left frame connector on, try to see where you need to drill a hole on each side of the connector and weld a steel tube inside, diagonally (that's what I'm going to do, using the US Car tool connectors - which XV kinda ripped off). The US car tool is a little bit easier to install, since it's open on the bottom, and you weld it shut when it's welded to the floor (makes it easier to put some rust treatment inside once installed).

Maybe also the fuel line, at the right side of the transmission crossmember (shouldn't be a problem if you have a stock line, but if you custom made something big, you may have a problem - mine came close but is OK).

What are my chances of getting such parts decently installed using a lift and MIG welder ? (as oposed to having the car upside down on a jig, and using TIG) ?

A TIG and a rotisserie would be perfect, granted.
A MIG is OK for that, you don't need a TIG. However, welding with the nozzle angled upward is not easy, with the molten steel projections falling back down in the nozzle.
Sure, a TIG could make it easier. But you can get proper results if you angle the nozzle sideways. Takes a little getting used to, you should practise on scrap metal in the same position first.
And of course there's the problem of welding relatively thin metal and making holes....

I'm going to do this myself in a couple of months. I have just spent the past week installing a 4-link setup, and welding the new shock crossmember/perch between the frame rails hasn't been too much fun.

Also be careful what you wear... If you don't have a specific welding suit (full leather), at least have a thick 100% cotton jumpsuit or equivalent. I welded using a suit I thought was cotton. Several molten droplets of steel went through the suit, through my pullover, through my T-shirt, and ended up on my arm. One went through my leather welding gloves (which had a hole at the very tip of one finger) and came to rest on my finger...

What length / weigth will the parts have ? (I'm currently on hollidays, and is concidering bringing these parts with me in a suitcase..)

Unless you have a very large suitcase, forget it. Torque boxes maybe, frame connectors never. I'd say somewhere between 1.20 and 1.40 meter.

Guess installing such connectors would have large influence on a convertible ehh ?

Once I'm through with the hardtop, I'll get another set for the convertible.

Guess I can call the manufacturer, but if someone here can help, I would appreaciate it...

Thanks;
JB

You can call John Paseman at US Car tool or send him a message...
Also, do take a while to go through his website. There's dozens of pics of cars he rebuilt, and a lot of useful info in these pics on what needs to be done to the chassis (spot welds that needs to be beefed up on some parts of the chassis, etc.)

You'll find lots of parts under you car which require a little weld here and there, before you install the frame connectors.

Also, make sure your lift is perfectly level before lifting your car with it.
Once it's on, it's on. Better not weld reinforcements if you twist the chassis on the lift...

by **botari123** » 12 Feb 2009 1:50

-i welded mine in with a mig
-welding upside down
-must say good cothing a must cause i got a couple scars from hot metal
-parking cables must be attended to i plan rear discs and new cable setup
so will address the routing later in mock up
-very happy with my XV parts
-should have built rotissori sooner would have made welding neater and easier but it all cleaned up nice

by **johannes** » 12 Feb 2009 2:47

Just wanted to say THANKS, that was inded informative.

A few comments if I may.....
As for rust treatment, sure the holes in the underside of the connectors allows for for anti rust treatment ?!

Do you know if there is any difference in steel thickness, between the two suppliers of subframe connectors?

Thanks;
JB

by **botari123** » 12 Feb 2009 3:00

-i put those holes for that reason
-also if any water gets in which it always does need to let it out
-they were close to 1/8 thick never checked but kept most of welding heat on the connectors as to not burn though floor pans

by **drewcrane** » 12 Feb 2009 12:11

man those rotisseries are sweet, i need one bad , your work looks great by the way :thumbsup:

by **Moparman1972** » 13 Feb 2009 15:19

botari123 wrote:-i welded mine in with a mig
-welding upside down
-must say good cothing a must cause i got a couple scars from hot metal
-parking cables must be attended to i plan rear discs and new cable setup
so will address the routing later in mock up
-very happy with my XV parts
-should have built rotissori sooner would have made welding neater and easier but it all cleaned up nice

In your picture, I don't see the outer holes for the seats! Don't tell me the frame connectors go right over the seat mounting holes......

by **fbernard** » 13 Feb 2009 19:21

Moparman1972 wrote:In your picture, I don't see the outer holes for the seats! Don't tell me the frame connectors go right over the seat mounting holes......

You must have narrow seats... :lol:

No, you can't see them because they are covered by the angle of the floor reinforcement brackets (the small brackets about 5 inches long that can be seen on the raised portion of the floor, right next to the rocker panels.

the outer holes are no further than 4 or 5 inches from the inside of the rockers.

by **Moparman1972** » 14 Feb 2009 2:24

I knew that! :s022:

I actually moved the holes for my lower seat rails, so that didn't help my mind any when I looked at the picture. That, and I get confused really easy....

by **68cdn** » 11 Apr 2009 0:42

Did you do any priming inside the connectors before welding ? I plan on masking the edge, and priming the inner section before welding.
I did buy the whole kit, turned out to be a good thing, my RH apron was buckled, and needed to be replaced, and my lower crossmember looked like it had hit every curb in California.....

by **dave-r** » 11 Apr 2009 9:07

You could prime the inside but I wouldn't bother.

I would just make sure there were enough ventalation and drain holes and after welding on I would give them a good internal spraying with a cavity wax type underseal. That by itself will seal the internal surfaces from air repel any water that might get in there.

by **botari123** » 11 Apr 2009 19:49

i did not prime inside rails
just made 2 drain holes to let out water cause it will get in
will spray inside with rust control after car is finished

Interference ? welding procedure, ....size of parts?

Re: Interference ? welding procedure, ....size of parts?

Thanks for a good reply.....this e-mail may be deleted....

XV Connectors