johannes wrote:Any interference between the new subframe conectors, and say P-brake wires, etc ????
Parking brake wires (mock the left frame connector on, try to see where you need to drill a hole on each side of the connector and weld a steel tube inside, diagonally (that's what I'm going to do, using the US Car tool connectors - which XV kinda ripped off). The US car tool is a little bit easier to install, since it's open on the bottom, and you weld it shut when it's welded to the floor (makes it easier to put some rust treatment inside once installed).
Maybe also the fuel line, at the right side of the transmission crossmember (shouldn't be a problem if you have a stock line, but if you custom made something big, you may have a problem - mine came close but is OK).
What are my chances of getting such parts decently installed using a lift and MIG welder ? (as oposed to having the car upside down on a jig, and using TIG) ?
A TIG and a rotisserie would be perfect, granted.
A MIG is OK for that, you don't need a TIG. However, welding with the nozzle angled upward is not easy, with the molten steel projections falling back down in the nozzle.
Sure, a TIG could make it easier. But you can get proper results if you angle the nozzle sideways. Takes a little getting used to, you should practise on scrap metal in the same position first.
And of course there's the problem of welding relatively thin metal and making holes....
I'm going to do this myself in a couple of months. I have just spent the past week installing a 4-link setup, and welding the new shock crossmember/perch between the frame rails hasn't been too much fun.
Also be careful what you wear... If you don't have a specific welding suit (full leather), at least have a thick 100% cotton jumpsuit or equivalent. I welded using a suit I
thought was cotton. Several molten droplets of steel went through the suit, through my pullover, through my T-shirt, and ended up on my arm. One went through my leather welding gloves (which had a hole at the very tip of one finger) and came to rest on my finger...
What length / weigth will the parts have ? (I'm currently on hollidays, and is concidering bringing these parts with me in a suitcase..)
Unless you have a very large suitcase, forget it. Torque boxes maybe, frame connectors never. I'd say somewhere between 1.20 and 1.40 meter.
Guess installing such connectors would have large influence on a convertible ehh ?
Once I'm through with the hardtop, I'll get another set for the convertible.
Guess I can call the manufacturer, but if someone here can help, I would appreaciate it...
Thanks;
JB
You can call John Paseman at US Car tool or send him a message...
Also, do take a while to go through his website. There's dozens of pics of cars he rebuilt, and a lot of useful info in these pics on what needs to be done to the chassis (spot welds that needs to be beefed up on some parts of the chassis, etc.)
You'll find lots of parts under you car which require a little weld here and there, before you install the frame connectors.
Also, make sure your lift is perfectly level before lifting your car with it.
Once it's on, it's on. Better not weld reinforcements if you twist the chassis on the lift...