The Dodge Challenger Message Board

The new Dynacorn Challenger body. MSRP is $17,500 for the shell only.

That is so cool it hurts when I was a little kid me and brother used to dream about being able to have a brand new muscle car, not just expertly restored sheet metal and trim etc., but freshly stamped virgin steel...............thing is, I bet the real world costs of panel work to that sort of standard is going to at least equal the initial purchase price of a new bodyshell isn't it
I'm gonna dribble all night now

That is cool!!
What would you do about body numbers....radiator suport, cowl etc?
I guess you would registor it as a fully custom car like you do a hotrod?

It would need a kit car VIN to be legal. Most (maybe all?) states have an allowance for it.

But most will be used to re-body existing cars by cutting out the numbers and welding into the new shell. That has been going on for years already. This just makes it easier for people.

Interesting. I supose there would be tell tale signs all over it to indicate that it is a repo even if it had correct numbers cut out of say a V code challenger.

If done correctly you would have great difficulty telling the difference between that and a normal "restoration" because so many parts and panels are replaced when they are done.

dave-r wrote:But most will be used to re-body existing cars by cutting out the numbers and welding into the new shell. That has been going on for years already. This just makes it easier for people.

Actually, making a rebody here (in France) is legal, provided the new body is actually a new part. Rebodying with a previously registered body is illegal.

For those who were born 20 years too late, this is the chance to have a brand new Challenger... and the best possible way to make a road-racing chassis, adding the torques boxes, frame connectors, roll-cage, extra welding everywhere. (Apart from building a tube chassis underneath a fibleglass body, but I prefer all-metal).

For those who have a car to restore, the price is probably on par with (or lower than) US Car Tool's "body in white" program.

And starting from new metal which is probably electroplated against corrosion.

It's also great for people wanting to build cars that won't be for street - strictly trailered drag/racing etc.

Will allow them to use a new shell, instead of ripping up an original which usually gets the numbers die-hards in a kerfuffle. Plus it would save them ample time stripping a car back and repairing all those nasty surprises.

`Cuda bodies are also available now.

(Article from Mopar collector´s gude, April 2012.)

fbernard wrote:

dave-r wrote:But most will be used to re-body existing cars by cutting out the numbers and welding into the new shell. That has been going on for years already. This just makes it easier for people.

adding the torques boxes,

I assume that the torque boxes are not included in these body shells.

Question: Is there any difference on the body depending if the car has got AC or not?

The firewall/bulkhead is different on AC cars to non-AC cars.

I wish I could afford one of these body shells. I would love to build a Challenger up from scratch to my own spec and just use a rusted/wrecked one for parts and registration purposes.

I figure they will want around 20 k for that body? cha ching, and find a rusty old cob to swap over 5 k cha ching, engine 10k cha ching ,suspension 5 k cha ching, paint 7 k ,10 k for all the other incidentals , so around 50 k for a new Cuda

$16,000 plus shipping.

http://www.restorationperformance.com/s ... ent/Detail

Yeah it would be a huge cost and the only way you could break even would be to find a wrecked Hemi or 440+6.

But the shell is stronger than stock so I would love to make a T/A type clone with one. Stroked 340 or 360 six pack. Gear vendors. Hotchkis suspension etc etc.

Well I can dream can't I?

dave-r wrote:But the shell is stronger than stock so I would love to make a T/A type clone with one.

No acid dipping then?

Does anyone know what these shells weigh, compared to an original?

Regardless, just the ticket for the mother of all 'Money No Object' Project builds. The ultimate blank cavass.

I think they are a little heavier Tim, due to the extra bracing and stiffening put into the floor pan etc.
If you wanted to build a restomod Chally then this is the only way to go, I'd love to do it

Or re-body a rotten/raced 440+6 or Hemi. Which is what most of them being sold will be for.

Adrian Worman wrote:I think they are a little heavier Tim, due to the extra bracing and stiffening put into the floor pan etc.
If you wanted to build a restomod Chally then this is the only way to go, I'd love to do it

Me too mate.

I bet you could offset some of that additional weight elsewhere in the build- up. I remember nearly killing myself trying to hoist the front seats from my old car into the loft. There’s a hundred kilos back, easy.

Tim wrote:Does anyone know what these shells weigh, compared to an original?

"I haven't bought one yet. But I did see one in Carlisle. From what I seen, they are top notch. The rep told me that they weigh about 200# more than their Ford counterpart. They have included some improvmentsthat add more strength and reduce the flexin the bodyand thataccounts for the extra weight. Also they used a thicker gauge metal in some of their stampings." (From: http://mustangforums.com/forum/classic- ... -67-a.html )

If you hold the mouse pointer above the six photos far below on this site:
http://www.mustangandfords.com/techarti ... ewall.html ....you will get information that might be of intrest.

200#

200lbs.

dave-r wrote:200lbs.

Crikey that is alot more ,after diss assembly of our cheese grater cuda ,the ASE mechanic told me these things are built like tanks .....the only issue is they didnt do the spot welds like tanks,or protect the steel like a tank

If as they claim the whole monocoque is that much stiffer then by the time you factor in the installation of torque boxes, spring mount bracing and floor pan connectors I bet the difference is negligible
I still think its the ultimate way to go

Adrian Worman wrote:If as they claim the whole monocoque is that much stiffer then by the time you factor in the installation of torque boxes, spring mount bracing and floor pan connectors I bet the difference is negligible
I still think its the ultimate way to go

ya know in the end it is the slick clean way to go and build it as you want no numbers to worry about, no tin worm to chase, yea if I had the wedge I would do it with one of these