The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Ok after a bit of a learning experience on the VP trip , I didnt want the k frame to fail so I tore down the front end,

and ended up using some of the components on my challenger due to a bit of over kill with this cuda I dont intend on using it on the track so slotted rotors, and solid adjustable strut rods are not necessary for this car.

I do have to say the solid mount strut rods ,what I mean by that is they mount to the frame and lca with out a bushing and I can hear/feel the road quite a bit more.

but I also like the reinforcement on the LCAS is important as well as K frame reinforcement ,so these will be going on this week and work will begin , thanks to a drought stricken winter here the days are mild in the 60,s,been very nice fo0r working on cars

Looks great Bro, that Cuda is gonna have a stout suspension/chassis! Glad I re-inforced my K-member so as not to have a similar failure. I think when you start to use Fat rubber it places much greater stress on the k. Smart move!

My K frame failed remember? Didn't know till I tried to do some mods to it but goes to show its well worth the attention. Little point in doin all that trick chassis/suspension work onto an unstable base eh?

Adrian Worman wrote:My K frame failed remember? Didn't know till I tried to do some mods to it but goes to show its well worth the attention. Little point in doin all that trick chassis/suspension work onto an unstable base eh?

Yea Ade I really dont know when it failed could have a 2 or 3 years who knows but I know now

Eddie wrote:Looks great Bro, that Cuda is gonna have a stout suspension/chassis! Glad I re-inforced my K-member so as not to have a similar failure. I think when you start to use Fat rubber it places much greater stress on the k. Smart move!

Yea I am almost convinced the hard urethane bushings helped cause failure as well as age ,and the shitty desert dirt trails around here they call roads

got some welding done and some cool pix too now time for prep and paint

Dont ya just hate it when you get rollin on a project , find that you need a fitting or part and have no extra cash at the moment ,but have cash coming ,but having to wait for just that....MONEY

all I need are some brake fittings and a pitman arm and I can put this thing back on the ground

Ok I have been working on our real life model ,got some parts stripped primed and ready for paint, also lit up the cuda rear lights

I got more work done repaired a 2 nd grille I acquired a broken grille and used pieces parts from 3 different grilles to make one ,one will end up on the car and one on the wall

also I finally got the A/C valve restored and what a pile of crap this is so cheaply made the stock cable bindes up , so I used a choke cable and it works better but still a pile of shit design

Looks great Drew! I know what you mean about the sheath style cable, it sucks! I have bits&pieces left of a spare lokar cable with teflon lined sheath. Much better!

Eddie wrote:Looks great Drew! I know what you mean about the sheath style cable, it sucks! I have bits&pieces left of a spare lokar cable with teflon lined sheath. Much better!

That will be one of my next purchases a nice lined ,smooth operation in fact now that you remoind me I might have a Lokar cable around here somewhere

I have a task that I have been waiting to do , it is the dash cap very inexpensive , very easy ,and the one on my chally has 15 years on it and no cracks, no fade just a great product for $89.00 compared to the $1200.00 that a new one costs ,

this is a cheap easy way to get results and move on to the next area of this project , I have a few pics, first remove the dash cap,not the frame just the cap, use a utility knife to adjust off the old foam, get it fitted, use some clamps, or tape, it comes with a tube of silicone although I used another one just to make sure I had all the edges sealed ,and after 12 hours of curing it was done, solid and fits fine,just a trial fit for now but it will bolt up just fine

Nice craftsmanship Drew!

Looks good from the pic but is the grain and moulding a good match for the original?
Certainly looks to have the same profile around the dash instruments, must be happy with that

Yea it is not exact ,but it is close enough ,and it seems to have passed the eye test on my chally with the Mopars peeps,plenty of trophies from that one

Took your advice Ed , found some Lokar brake cable laying around ,perfect length , made some connectors . works like a charm ,nice nylon lined ,heavy cable and no bind what so ever , feels and works like a modern unit, thanks Ed great idea

Awesome!! Trust me Bro,,I'll need your help/advice in the coming weeks!

Eddie wrote:Awesome!! Trust me Bro,,I'll need your help/advice in the coming weeks!

Yea ................I need you to come and kick some parts guys ass......

1st pic sack of s.................I need to return to (there is a new napa I thought I would give a try) LETS JUST SAY THERE WERE 1/4 RIGHT.

They gave the wrong viscus fan clutch,alternator belt,upper radiator hose,

correct lower rad.. hose,and wiper motor (minus factory harness connectors,I have to find new ones)

Beat to crap rebuilt ps pump (no pully nut)


I have three (one from the car 2 new got the glove box and truck lock today ) trunk lock cylinders since they are specific to barracuda( I thought these cars were the same as challys ) now I have to match to the glove box,but the two glove box latches seem to be missing the actual latch to hold the glove box door closed so I have to find a latch ,to make it all work
just a small tid bit to restoring one of these fine Detroit automobiles


I am glad to have a place to rant ..........let me have it ..........if anyone is listening I am not upset ,really it is cars and really kinda comical how much we put in to these things,I just want my car to work ,with out alot of fuss and fan fare , not factory ,just work properly

I got a couple of spare e-body glove box doors if you want the locks/latches off them? Lemme know mate I got a job lot of interior parts 70-74 I got off an MMA member a few years back, there's shit loads of it

Adrian Worman wrote:I got a couple of spare e-body glove box doors if you want the locks/latches off them? Lemme know mate I got a job lot of interior parts 70-74 I got off an MMA member a few years back, there's shit loads of it

Yea thanks for the offer Ade ,but shipping would be pretty pricey,just wondering do you still have the keys to those glove box door because you cant get the key cylinder out with out the key
there is a release slot and the key needs to be in there to line things up

and one other thing that happened 3 times , my new wire harnesses I bought from year one , the first one I went to plug in the engine harness and the white clip that holds it in the bulkhead,just broke off the first time I tried it, sent it back they sent a new one, it works so ,

for shitz and giggles I tried the other two before I even removed them from the package they broke both of them , I called year one and this time the guy gave me shit he said" that has never happened" well I said it has now happened to me 3 times and I have the 42 year old clip here in my hand and it is still clipping ,kind of a pain in the ass I now wonder if I should have taken Dave's advice and gone with painless......to lat now

I'll check the box of tricks in the garage ............when I can leave my new bike alone
And I will only ever use a modern wiring system now, got another Painless Mopar specific kit for my 65 Baccaruda

Adrian Worman wrote:I'll check the box of tricks in the garage ............when I can leave my new bike alone
And I will only ever use a modern wiring system now, got another Painless Mopar specific kit for my 65 Baccaruda

Yea I managed to find the parts for the glove box keys and the wiring .............I am stuck with it not a big deal it will work fine for the little we plan on using the car

Nice work Drew! Damn, already got the big block in the Fish already, you are passing me up bigtime! I thought about the painless system, might still go with it,, but I heard it's nothing like the factory MoPar set-up including the bulkhead connector. However, if it makes it easier and more robust,,I might go with it. Dave & Ade really like them, so I might take the plunge! They are not cheap! Of course I just spent $ 6,355 for a complete Trans Kit too!!!

6,355 for a complete Trans Kit too!!!

I just threw up in my mouth.............whew that is some wedge

Yea my goal is May 15th that will be 3 years ago I started tearing down the car and this thread,this is a great time line to keep me motivated , when I look back at pics I actually have made some progress

I realize this is a cuda on a chally site but they are all Mopars eh?

Unless you want total authenticity, go with an aftermarket wiring system. The bulkhead is a PITA and has caused innumerable fires. It's a known choke point in the electrical system.

fal308 wrote:Unless you want total authenticity, go with an aftermarket wiring system. The bulkhead is a PITA and has caused innumerable fires. It's a known choke point in the electrical system.

Yea you are right but I have already spent the money and the new harness does have larger gauge wire but I will still probably mi\modify it to be sure

Got my tranny 500 bucks with the shift kit and rebuilt original torque convertor .

and this is an area that started it all

Ok I have some TTI headers ,the fit is not good as usual for headers the passenger side will have to be massaged a bit ,typical I have no problem with that , but the driver side ........well I will have to have the collector extended as it will not allow the shitfer,I mean shifter....... to go in to park ,the collector flange is in the way........................headers what a pain

I also had to pick up some clip bolts for the alloy rad, so I can use the stock fan shroud

I'm a little surprised at those TTI's not fitting without actual surgery .... a belt with a hammer maybe but ain't that a bit extreme?
I got a fan shroud to fit onto my Ali rad too, you've yet reminded me it needs doing........

Adrian Worman wrote:I'm a little surprised at those TTI's not fitting without actual surgery .... a belt with a hammer maybe but ain't that a bit extreme?
I got a fan shroud to fit onto my Ali rad too, you've yet reminded me it needs doing........

I have never had a set of headers that didnt need some sort of hammering.

I might have a remedy, the slide adjuster on a column shift car is on the other end of the rod ,so the bolt/clamp will be at the other end for adjustment

And hell Ade if the car dont get hot with out the shroud , it might not need it ,I know alot of people pitch em get by ,but it is to dam hot here so I need all the cooling I can get