Backcut the intake and exhaust valves, grind a bit below the valve seat into the throat--but not over 90% of the seat angle then blend that into the bowl. 92% is MAX! anymore will destroy the flow. No more than 15 degrees between seat angles.(Example is 30-45-60 valve seat angles) Grind a bit off the pushrod pinch point but not so much as to thin that section out. Gasket match, remove all casting flash around the long side radius, finally I hand Lapped the valves just to make sure they are seated and sealed. Thats it. I increased flow approx 10% for both intake/exhaust thru the lift of my cam which is .600 I didnt touch the chamber. (A lot of the newer alloy heads have a ridge around the valve seat area on the head,,this is an anti-reversion ridge and should be left in place and NOT smoothed out,,this is to prevent fuel puddling and improves wet flow) The fel-Pro 1009 4.441 .040 Head Gaskets clear the chamber and fit the 4.375 bore nicely. There is NO overhang into the Combustion Chamber of the head. I am using a Roller Camshaft with PAC Beehive valvesprings 225/400 close/open pressures with their spring cups, tool steel lightweight retainers, 10 degree locks, and their special seals. 425.00 for the complete package. Hope this answers your question Ian.