

fal308 wrote:Another thing to consider if it is deep. Will you have to notch/cut a hole for your exhaust?
edited to add; Or you could just put on some retro chrome sidepipes
 I remember Vettes having them in the 60's 70's  and some dudes put em on Muscle Cars,,but we made fun of those dweebs!
 I remember Vettes having them in the 60's 70's  and some dudes put em on Muscle Cars,,but we made fun of those dweebs! 


fal308 wrote:I've got it!! Turn it into a Glenn Bunch street-legal clone




fal308 wrote:Loved TAs and AARs since watching them in the old TransAm series. I think that's part of what drew me to Mopars in the first place back in the '70s. Cubic inches are good but twisties are


Eddie wrote:fal308 wrote:Loved TAs and AARs since watching them in the old TransAm series. I think that's part of what drew me to Mopars in the first place back in the '70s. Cubic inches are good but twisties are
Twisties rule,,anyone can drive in a straight line



 
 



Adrian Worman wrote:Oh yeah and don't cut out the old sheet metal straight away, tack the new panel over the existing floor pan first and then use a small grinder to zip out the old tunnel from underneath, the new one is so much wider its easy.
I actually made mine out of some sheet steel and tacked it in cos it was too expensive to ship a new one over
 My anal ways tell me to measure the length of the trans from the crossmember/rear mount to the centerline of the shifter boss. This centerline would be perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline. Then use a small punch from underneath to mark this imaginary centerline. Then from the topside make a "crosshair" for this area so the new hump shifter opening is centered for the new piece. My worst fear is welding in the new piece with the opening "Off"  I will also have to be careful not to cut into the trans crossmember
 My anal ways tell me to measure the length of the trans from the crossmember/rear mount to the centerline of the shifter boss. This centerline would be perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline. Then use a small punch from underneath to mark this imaginary centerline. Then from the topside make a "crosshair" for this area so the new hump shifter opening is centered for the new piece. My worst fear is welding in the new piece with the opening "Off"  I will also have to be careful not to cut into the trans crossmember 

 
 

Adrian Worman wrote:Gettin the shifter aperture location wrong shouldn't be an issue Ed
I left the trans and shifter in place to check positioning and then whipped it all out.
Those factory style trans humps are provided with a locating flange around the base to help place it right first time
 I also discovered Keisler left out 2 fastener packs. 1 for the isolator mount  the other was the crossmember fasteners. I gotta call them Mon. to get it ordered.
  I also discovered Keisler left out 2 fastener packs. 1 for the isolator mount  the other was the crossmember fasteners. I gotta call them Mon. to get it ordered.  It was in the installation manual but not on the invoice.  I will report all "snags" on here.
  It was in the installation manual but not on the invoice.  I will report all "snags" on here.


 .......love it
  .......love it
Adrian Worman wrote:Frankenstein trans tunnel.......love it
Shame you got trade issues with Keisler........ what is it with traders these days? Seems there's always someone who couldn't give a fuck, you'd think the lost business and reputation would be important to em!





Eddie wrote:Better Drew? Sorry I didn't mean to offend you. Eddie OUT!!


 
   
  

Adrian Worman wrote:on the back of the truck was a big sign that read; "MAY CONTAIN POLITICAL PROMISES"

 
 

 
  


 
 
Adrian Worman wrote:That looks pretty neat to me Ed
I fabbed my own but lookin at your work I wish I'd bit the bullet and bought a trans hump from Brewers.......
 Got the Bellhousing dialed in at .002 and that's within specs.  Mounted the Clutch and the LGT,,looks Killer!
   Got the Bellhousing dialed in at .002 and that's within specs.  Mounted the Clutch and the LGT,,looks Killer!  ASSEMBLY TIP:,,make sure the dowel pins fit "cleanly" inside the block AND the bellhousing,,this will make dialing in the bellhousing much MUCH easier! If they fit too tight it will make adjustments and removal impossible to do without damaging the 35.00 dowel pins,(per pair)!!  Next up is the trick serpentine belt drive system from a 5.2/5.9 Dodge Magnum  engine. I bought the Kit from Jerry Cysbaki who owns SDC  CNC machined MoPar parts in Detroit. The TTI  Headers should be here in a couple weeks too. I am ordering them from TTI because I want both banks to have an O2 bung,,might as well have em made that way.
   ASSEMBLY TIP:,,make sure the dowel pins fit "cleanly" inside the block AND the bellhousing,,this will make dialing in the bellhousing much MUCH easier! If they fit too tight it will make adjustments and removal impossible to do without damaging the 35.00 dowel pins,(per pair)!!  Next up is the trick serpentine belt drive system from a 5.2/5.9 Dodge Magnum  engine. I bought the Kit from Jerry Cysbaki who owns SDC  CNC machined MoPar parts in Detroit. The TTI  Headers should be here in a couple weeks too. I am ordering them from TTI because I want both banks to have an O2 bung,,might as well have em made that way.

