The Dodge Challenger Message Board

I've got it!! Turn it into a Glenn Bunch street-legal clone

fal308 wrote:Another thing to consider if it is deep. Will you have to notch/cut a hole for your exhaust?


edited to add; Or you could just put on some retro chrome sidepipes

OK, I have read the complete instructions, observed the shifter location on the new Trans, called Keisler. I ordered a new Manual Trans Tunnel "Hump", I'll have to cut out my Auto Trans Hump carefully and weld in the new piece to match the shifter location. I can sell that part on MoParts! I thought this was to be because my 70 has the shifter to the left side of the crank centerline. Here is a pic of the area I'm talking about. My 70 has a flat arear to mount the trim ring and boot like a stock 4-speed setup, which is why I didn't paint that area a while back. As far as the exhaust Barc, I don't think it should be too bad an issue,,but I haven't got that far yet. NO Freaking Sidepipes! I remember Vettes having them in the 60's 70's and some dudes put em on Muscle Cars,,but we made fun of those dweebs!

As you can see,,the auto tunnel has been replaced, I assumed it was from a TorqueFlite Sprag Failure from it's past racing days,,they did a decent job,,used heavy gauge metal,,this will give me a good flange to weld the new hump to. I'm using a Gas MIG welder. Not the junk flux cored welder I have been using.

fal308 wrote:I've got it!! Turn it into a Glenn Bunch street-legal clone

This is THE Challenger I want to "Model" my car off of. My Good Friend Mitch Lelito's T/A! I have another Gentleman I met recently who has his all original never restored,,bought brand new at our Plymouth Store back in 1970. AAR Cuda! I hope to have pics soon on this board!

Loved TAs and AARs since watching them in the old TransAm series. I think that's part of what drew me to Mopars in the first place back in the '70s. Cubic inches are good but twisties are

fal308 wrote:Loved TAs and AARs since watching them in the old TransAm series. I think that's part of what drew me to Mopars in the first place back in the '70s. Cubic inches are good but twisties are

Twisties rule,,anyone can drive in a straight line

Eddie wrote:

fal308 wrote:Loved TAs and AARs since watching them in the old TransAm series. I think that's part of what drew me to Mopars in the first place back in the '70s. Cubic inches are good but twisties are

Twisties rule,,anyone can drive in a straight line

Well said sir

Got the new Tunnel hump. I just have to make sure the new one is welded, with the shifter hole in the right position. I'll mock-up the trans under the car and using the rear mount as a reference point, measure the length, then mark it inside the cockpit before cutting away anything.

You'll have to grind all those autoshifter brackets off, but don't hack off the console bracket until you're sure you ain't gonna use it
Personally I like just a bold Pistol Grip standing on a plain black carpet

Oh yeah and don't cut out the old sheet metal straight away, tack the new panel over the existing floor pan first and then use a small grinder to zip out the old tunnel from underneath, the new one is so much wider its easy.
I actually made mine out of some sheet steel and tacked it in cos it was too expensive to ship a new one over

Adrian Worman wrote:Oh yeah and don't cut out the old sheet metal straight away, tack the new panel over the existing floor pan first and then use a small grinder to zip out the old tunnel from underneath, the new one is so much wider its easy.
I actually made mine out of some sheet steel and tacked it in cos it was too expensive to ship a new one over

Great idea,,thanks a bunch Ade!!! My anal ways tell me to measure the length of the trans from the crossmember/rear mount to the centerline of the shifter boss. This centerline would be perpendicular to the crankshaft centerline. Then use a small punch from underneath to mark this imaginary centerline. Then from the topside make a "crosshair" for this area so the new hump shifter opening is centered for the new piece. My worst fear is welding in the new piece with the opening "Off" I will also have to be careful not to cut into the trans crossmember

Gettin the shifter aperture location wrong shouldn't be an issue Ed
I left the trans and shifter in place to check positioning and then whipped it all out.
Those factory style trans humps are provided with a locating flange around the base to help place it right first time

Adrian Worman wrote:Gettin the shifter aperture location wrong shouldn't be an issue Ed
I left the trans and shifter in place to check positioning and then whipped it all out.
Those factory style trans humps are provided with a locating flange around the base to help place it right first time

Thanks Ade,,I had a feeling I was over thinking it! I also discovered Keisler left out 2 fastener packs. 1 for the isolator mount the other was the crossmember fasteners. I gotta call them Mon. to get it ordered. It was in the installation manual but not on the invoice. I will report all "snags" on here.

Frustrated at Keisler,,3 calls,,3 weeks,,no fasteners,, no dowel pins, giving them till Wed. then I am going to see my 1st cousin,,he's a Criminal Attorney here in TH. Anyways,,dialed in my bellhousing,, found I am .013 off so a .014 pin should be the ticket!! Welding in my new 4-speed tunnel,,found I have ample clearance at 0 to 5 degrees,(neg.), driveline angle,,now I can finish my Frankenstein tunnel

Frankenstein trans tunnel .......love it
Shame you got trade issues with Keisler........ what is it with traders these days? Seems there's always someone who couldn't give a fuck, you'd think the lost business and reputation would be important to em!

Adrian Worman wrote:Frankenstein trans tunnel .......love it
Shame you got trade issues with Keisler........ what is it with traders these days? Seems there's always someone who couldn't give a fuck, you'd think the lost business and reputation would be important to em!

I really don't understand it Ade.

Perhaps politics should be banned from this site, might have to talk with the gaffer!?

I would rather talk about your bad ass chally no matter how hard it is to get the proper parts

Better Drew? Sorry I didn't mean to offend you. Eddie OUT!!

Eddie wrote:Better Drew? Sorry I didn't mean to offend you. Eddie OUT!!

None taken , we just both hate politics

Haha! I just see ya post about politics and got in my ramvan to drive to one of my shops to do some work and I followed an effluent tanker truck called the "Poo Lorry"(honest)............ on the back of the truck was a big sign that read; "MAY CONTAIN POLITICAL PROMISES"

Adrian Worman wrote:on the back of the truck was a big sign that read; "MAY CONTAIN POLITICAL PROMISES"

That's when a camera would have been handy!

No one hates politics, we just hate politicians.
And pay them.
Too much.

I sat behind it at a junction Fabien and I could've grabbed my iPhone and snapped it but I kept thinkin the traffic would move and I'd lose it
It's local so I'll catch it soon...

The tunnel is almost done. A few plug welds and it's done. Had to grind, cut, weld, 3M adhesive/seam sealer,, a lot due to the Frankenstein floor work that was done before I bought the car.

FINALLY! I received my Speedometer gear! The things I had to do to get it! Wont go over it here! Don't want to upset anyone. E-mail if U want the details

Except for the weather proof 'foam',,,done. Yeah,, I aint no chip foose

That looks pretty neat to me Ed
I fabbed my own but lookin at your work I wish I'd bit the bullet and bought a trans hump from Brewers.......

Adrian Worman wrote:That looks pretty neat to me Ed
I fabbed my own but lookin at your work I wish I'd bit the bullet and bought a trans hump from Brewers.......

Thanks Ade,,we gotta do what we gotta do! I fully understand! Got the Bellhousing dialed in at .002 and that's within specs. Mounted the Clutch and the LGT,,looks Killer! ASSEMBLY TIP:,,make sure the dowel pins fit "cleanly" inside the block AND the bellhousing,,this will make dialing in the bellhousing much MUCH easier! If they fit too tight it will make adjustments and removal impossible to do without damaging the 35.00 dowel pins,(per pair)!! Next up is the trick serpentine belt drive system from a 5.2/5.9 Dodge Magnum engine. I bought the Kit from Jerry Cysbaki who owns SDC CNC machined MoPar parts in Detroit. The TTI Headers should be here in a couple weeks too. I am ordering them from TTI because I want both banks to have an O2 bung,,might as well have em made that way.

2

3