The Dodge Challenger Message Board

fal308 wrote:Should have fixed it yourself with that fancy new tool I sent you the page for

LOL, Barc got me on that one too!

New rear taillight, fuel tank, dome light, wiring harness from M & H Electrical. Just needs new light bulbs

Are they good repo's Ed? They'll fit up nice by the look of them, factory style bulb sockets too.
Are you fitting a stock fuel sender or using an aftermarket item?
Don't forget to ground the sucker

Adrian Worman wrote:Are they good repo's Ed? They'll fit up nice by the look of them, factory style bulb sockets too.
Are you fitting a stock fuel sender or using an aftermarket item?
Don't forget to ground the sucker

Thanks Ade, The harness from MH looks fantastic,,very high quality it seems,,wont know how it fits until Tomm,gotta get some 2 prong and single prong bulbs and 2 small push-in side marker bulbs,,I'll post pics when installed. I got the harness at the Indy Trade show in March,,90.00 bucks,, but it looks dead accurate! I gotta say, since my fuel system is centered around my fuel type,(E-85), and the fact I'm gonna eventually have it Fuel Injected,(SMPI), I have to plan for 2 major things. 1). Alcohol absorbs water. I have been discussing this with the fuel tank manufacturers, Rick's Fuel Tanks makes 70-74 Challenger tanks from stainless which can handle ANY type of fuel, both fossil and Bio-Fuels without any worry of corrosion. Hot Rod City makes them out of aluminum, which can corrode like steel can with water present. Marine applications use either Stainless or plastic. So I am gonna bite the bullet, again, and get it in stainless. 2).I need a very high volume pump,, intank, is the most efficient. Ricks can accommodate this feature no problem! I'll need around 180-200 GPH with E-85 30-40% more than gasoline, with AN-10 output/input fittings, Vent nipple,,, using hi-tech earls, aero-quip ect alcohol/gas line. Return style regulator also,,probably gonna get my fuel line, reg. from Fast-Man EFI,(Richard Nedbals place) http://www.fastmanefi.com I really love the XFI with dual program for flex fuel,,the Western States don't have much E-85,,in terre haute we have at least 15 stations that pump it at 2.59 a Gallon and it's 105 Octane!! So I gotta plan for the trip with pisswater,,(gasoline) Yeah,, grounds,(earth), is very important!!

New rear harness in. Very nice fit, took maybe 10 min I was wrong,,it's not 90.00 it's 130.00 got it at MetroParts,booth ,at the Indy Trade show in March 2013

Rear electrical upgrades completed. Crimped, soldered,shrink-wrapped, 12 gauge fusible links, ground to 3/8 threaded stud welded to rear frame rail, wrapped in MSD non-conductive, high heat vulcanizing wrap.

Just curious, but why use fusible link instead of a circuit breaker?

fal308 wrote:Just curious, but why use fusible link instead of a circuit breaker?

I prefer circuit breakers so I don't end up stranded on the side of the road. Plus they work much faster and save any cables that might have shorted. I only used them on the headlight and electric fan circuits on my car but I think the next time (if there ever was a next time) I would be looking to use circuit breakers wherever practically possible. They do take up a lot more room than a fuse though!

fal308 wrote:Just curious, but why use fusible link instead of a circuit breaker?

What kind of circuit breaker are you describing? There are inline fuses, fuse blocks and box type circuit breakers. All are inferior to the Fusible link due to increased resistance before circuit de-activation. This is why Chrysler and GM used them! I am following MAD Electricals recommendations and bought their whole wiring upgrade kits. The only advantage I see with "Circuit Breakers" is they re-set themselves without doing anything,,but according to Mad they produce way more heat and potential damage then FL's. FL's are easy to check for failure and replace on the road provided you have a spare and a needle nose plier. Headlights, Fuel Pump, Cooling module all will have relays,,also heavily used by Chrysler! Cmon guys,,I aint workin on a Phord!

Haha ain't workin on a Fwoard!! Like it
Have to agree with Ed on this tho, fusible links are faster activating and inherently safer than most any other device on an automotive loom

Adrian Worman wrote:, fusible links are faster activating and inherently safer than most any other device on an automotive loom

Didn't know that. I thought circuit breakers were pretty much instant. Shows how much I know.

I didn't know it either Ade! On Modern Computer controlled alternators, the charging/power systems are constantly monitored by the PCM and charging/power systems constantly change voltage/current output instead of a "Sense Wire" and these systems are rich with Relays and self setting circuit breakers,,so Dave could be correct,,but both Chrysler and GM used Fusible links on vintage cars/trucks because they were so reliable. Today, I don't think they are used at all instead it seems they use all self setting breakers and ATO/ATC type blade mini fuses.

Mark refers to the excess heat as "Thermal Runaway",,,,and states the FL is impervious to this phenomenon. Good enough for me! But I think both Dave and Barc are also correct! All connections were stripped, crimped, soldered, shrink wrapped twice. Now that I jinxed myself,,the car will burn down

Here is the copy of the Mad Electrical wiring diagram I am using,,written by Mark Hamilton. I am not using an Emergency Cut-Out switch yet. I may depending upon Auto-X track rules per SCCA regs,,but for now it's omitted.

Well, just to complicate matters, Daveman is technically correct (that's not a surprise tho is it?) because breakers are fast acting, but they are suited to modern computer controlled systems, where a fusible link is perfectly suited is in an older design of wiring loom as found in our crappy old not very well built cars
A circuit breaker protects ecu's and modules, a fusible link protects wiring and slow acting components such as old style regulators, alternators etc.

My thoughts exactly Ade,,and yeah Dave is right. You should hear is office joke! I still laugh because he is SOOOOO freaking right it aint funny!

I knew the links were faster acting but I thought they tended to blow easier. I know on my first generation RX-7 one of the common changes was to replace the link with circuit breakers (commonly from a second gen 7) because they had a tendancy to burn/blow. It's not that they were undersized either, it was a parrallel setup with one link heavier than the other. At least it was easy to reach, right behind the driver side headlamp assembly next to the fusebox!
Agree on Mad! Excellent reference source, for older Dodges especially.

My Polish mate, Rich Rynkeiwiscz restored my Heater Box,,with excellent results! I also bought a spare instrument cluster, Heater Controls panel, and Light bar. The price was awesome! 275 for the resto! Now, if I can just install it without damaging it!

#2

Box before resto,,had a large hole in it.

Got the Keisler SS 700 LGT today!

Man..... check that hardcore gear jammer!!! What do you think of it Ed?

Thanks Ade, it weighs approx. 110 Lbs. I used a Bathroom scale They sent everything but the Driveshaft, it has to be measured with the wheels on the ground, Output flange to yoke then ordered. 1350 U joints, Chrome-Moly unit made by DSM here in the U.S. and good for 1200 Ft. Lbs. and 32% Overdriven. The trans ratios are 1st=2.66 2nd=1.78 3rd 1.30 Direct drive or 4th=1.0 and O/D = .68 the unit is a robust piece with a thick walled casting,,cant wait to get it installed! The Flywheel is a SFI billet piece with a RAM twin disc clutch 9.5 " and hyd. slave cylinder. I'll post any issues,,hope I don't have a many!

110 Lbs. I used a Bathroom scale.................

That is NICE!! Sure that wasn't supposed to come to my place?

Man that is more than "nice". That is damn SEXY.

Oh yeah,,it was addressed to Col. MO. Here is the Twin disc 9.5" diaphragm clutch with SFI Billet Alluminum flywheel and steel ring gear. It literally weighs 1/2 of the factory 11" unit. Should be a quick revving combo and ease high speed shifts. also the crossmember that hopefully has addressed any fitment issues the B-Body guys had to deal with. We shall soon see. I still have to purchase a set of Headers and the "Trick" Serpentine Front drive made for 5.2/5.9 Magnum engines from SDI before I can do a body drop over the engine trans assembly. Another 2K for all that stuff!

Does that crossmember lower the trany? Looks pretty deep.

I noticed that too Barc, it does have a really thick Ford Rear rubber mount. I'm gonna slide the trans under the hump,,not sure where I should cut the auto trans bracket off. Before I do that, I want to see where the shifter is going to protrude thru the hump.

Another thing to consider if it is deep. Will you have to notch/cut a hole for your exhaust?


edited to add; Or you could just put on some retro chrome sidepipes