The Dodge Challenger Message Board

It's tug a war with your cyclops material lol

Yeah Wayne,, I tug, tug all the time. My right arm is huge man! Still waiting for the trans,,next up!!!!

Bilsteins from RCD,,Vendor is Firm Feel Good news,,the Keisler Trans is being built now at Liberty Gear! Shipment should commence in 2 weeks!!

That is gonna be along two weeks , but it looks like a roller now good deal , nice work

Thanks Drew, the current 'K' is coming out in a few days,, to make room for the new 'K',,, in the meantime,,new brake lines, new Master Cylinder, front tubular upper A-Arms, E-Brake cable kit,,new fabbed allumiunum fuel cell from Hot Rod City,, http://www.hotrodcitygarage.com with intank pump good for 1000 HP, I gotta have the volume for E-85, lots to keep me busy and broke for a while

This is ultimate car porn lol...........

FF Tubular,, gusseted,,,A-Arms

Got my new Stainless brake lines from Inline Tube. I told them I would send them my old lines at my expense. They said not necessary! They sent the wrong lines,,wrong sized fittings, wrong bends ect

Inline tube refused to take back my unused brake lines.They had nothing on their website stating that fact! I don't recommend them along with hughes engines and indy cylinder head. They wont get another penny from me!

I hate companies who don't listen to their customers when they have an issue with their products
Happy to take yer coin and then ignore you when there's a problem.........don't these people realise that they are losing valuable trade?
I'd go out of business with an attitude like that

Adrian Worman wrote:I hate companies who don't listen to their customers when they have an issue with their products
Happy to take yer coin and then ignore you when there's a problem.........don't these people realise that they are losing valuable trade?
I'd go out of business with an attitude like that

It never ceases to Amaze me Ade. The lines are new in the box,,only took out 1 small line (front Drivers side). I also screwed up and ordered the whole kit before thinking my brake system through. I got stainless steel thinking, it will all bolt up to the distribution block/proportioning valve. I don't need one with 4 wheel discs! The only thing is,,without it,,how will I activate the Brake System warning light? I am going to use a Wilwood Adj. rear brake line Prop. valve to dial in my rear brakes. Flaring stainless is a bitch. The only flaring tool I like is the eastwood tool,,but man 250 bucks! I think I'll call Right Stuff detailing tomm,, and ask them if they will make me 1 piece brake lines from the Master to the wheel in mild OEM steel. I hate learning this way,,too expensive,,but it's gotta be right! The Nevada/Colorado Mountains are unforgiving.

OK,, I found out I can use a simple 5 port drum brake distribution block. 2 lines from the Master, 1 line to FR wheel, one to FL wheel, 1 to rear brake line. This wont affect my rear line pressure. I will plumb a Mopar Perf/Wilwood rear adjustable Prop. Valve to tune rear wheel lock-up. I'm keeping my stainless lines and make it work. I did spend some stupid money on a Pro Flaring tool that will flare stainless (Eastwood). I'll post how it all goes soon.

Classic Tube is another brake and fuel line option. I've ordered some things from them in the past. They even have dodge truck/Ramcharger tubing and lines. Eddie probably knows how hard it is to find parts for Dodge trucks

Thanks Barc! I wished I had used Classic Tube! Anyways, I'm determined to make this work. I ordered a SSBC, 5 port proportioning valve, it offers adjustable rear brake line proportioning, has a pigtail for brake warning light, also doubles as a distribution block in the stock location,, so the brake lines should need minimal mods. I also ordered the eastwood pro-flaring tool, I joined their mailing list,,got 10% off, it's a pro tool that offers great rigidity more importantly,,it works with stainless steel, a hard material to machine and wear mate. Yeah,,pre 93 Dodge Ram trucks are difficult to find any aftermarket stuff for, I had to use a Ford Grill,,modified to fit my 90 PowerRam. That's truck got totaled in the first week after I sold it. Rednecks,,Booze, brick wall,,the Ram lost! Shame,,that truck was perfect,,not a spot of rust on it.

I always liked that truck. Just wish I had the $$ when you sold it.
That 5 way valve sounds intersting. I like how it doubles as the distribution block. Saves you from a couple of flares. Will be different running back lines all the way down the car though. You putting the block in the stock distribution blcok space?

fal308 wrote:I always liked that truck. Just wish I had the $$ when you sold it.
That 5 way valve sounds intersting. I like how it doubles as the distribution block. Saves you from a couple of flares. Will be different running back lines all the way down the car though. You putting the block in the stock distribution blcok space?

Yeah, same place Barc, this way brake line bends will be close to the stock line routing. It looks like a GM style valve with the taillight pigtail that obviously operates off of pressure instead of up on the brake lever arm under the dash like Chrysler does. So I'll probably not use that feature. I got it because as you said, it doubles as a dist. block and adj. rear line pressure.

Just to be different I wonder if you could try wiring the pigtail to read line pressure or line temp? Would be an interesting, if mostly useless, experiment. (Plus give you another gauge to read )

edited to add; Just thinking, if you used it for pressure, you could build an automatice computer-controlled proportioning valve!

fal308 wrote:Just to be different I wonder if you could try wiring the pigtail to read line pressure or line temp? Would be an interesting, if mostly useless, experiment. (Plus give you another gauge to read )

edited to add; Just thinking, if you used it for pressure, you could build an automatice computer-controlled proportioning valve!

I am sure that is something Eddie could incorprate into his comprehensive data logging system.

I might play with the pigtail,,but the Audi Quattro experiment,,,Noooo

I figured someone had already done it. But a home-brewed version that anyone could build up would be different (think Megasquirt)

Sometimes,,to get Pro Results you gotta get the right tooling. Here is the Eastwood Professional grade flaring tool with multiple turret selection. I used the hardest material to work with,,stainless steel. Stainless is difficult to wear mate or machine due to the amount of Chromium present in the alloy. It cuts like buggers sticky nasty shit. This tool made a 45 degree flare in seconds with a perfect flare! I mounted the SSBC Prop. valve in the stock location and hung the drivers side line in 10 minutes.

I will be sending my brake lines to you in the future.

dave-r wrote:I will be sending my brake lines to you in the future.

Send em too me Dave!

Eddie wrote:Sometimes,,to get Pro Results you gotta get the right tooling.

Bought that thing last year, after using the basic Summit tool for the odd job for years.
I'm a tool freak, but that one is the best tool I've bought in a long time.
It's so easy to use it makes me want to redo every brake line on every car I know...

Haven't thought about using stainless though, I'll throw in a roll of stainless next time I order parts. My favorite material for brake lines is a mix of copper and nickel, it's bronze colored and does not corrode. Pretty soft to bend too, and does not crush easily (you can wrap it around a big socket and the tube will stay perfectly round).
There's also plastic-lined steel, the kind they use on modern cars.

fbernard wrote:

Eddie wrote:Sometimes,,to get Pro Results you gotta get the right tooling.

Bought that thing last year, after using the basic Summit tool for the odd job for years.
I'm a tool freak, but that one is the best tool I've bought in a long time.
It's so easy to use it makes me want to redo every brake line on every car I know...

Haven't thought about using stainless though, I'll throw in a roll of stainless next time I order parts. My favorite material for brake lines is a mix of copper and nickel, it's bronze colored and does not corrode. Pretty soft to bend too, and does not crush easily (you can wrap it around a big socket and the tube will stay perfectly round).
There's also plastic-lined steel, the kind they use on modern cars.

Thanks Fabien, I was told,(After I ordered the stainless), that the Copper/Nickel is the best all around material. Both in strength and conformability. . Next time, I'll use that stuff!

Lines all routed, re-fitted with 3/8 fittings with my new Eastwood tool. The only lines left are the master cylinder lines,,but I cant fit them until I get my new Clutch foot pedal assembly from Keisler Trans. I spoke with Shafi Keisler this morn. he assured me delivery will be very soon. I'm giving them 30 days. If no trans by then I will demand my money back and go with Hurst Driveline or American Powertrain, they don't use the LGT though. They use Tremecs. I would rather have the LGT as it has a main shaft support bearing,,it's much stronger then any Tremec! The things we do to have a manual O/D box!!

YUKO! Pretty nasty,, the lower box is broken with a huge gash in the corner. Instead of attempting this myself, I am shipping it to the Heater Box guy in Penn. he has all the spare parts to restore it and fix the damage.

What the hell you want a heater for you big puff.

dave-r wrote:What the hell you want a heater for you big puff.

Dave,, got me pegged

Should have fixed it yourself with that fancy new tool I sent you the page for