The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Thanks for the tip Bro, I'll get a brass plug this afternoon.

Stripping my NutBucket, the previous owner simply sprayed the lowest cost white paint. It could be removed with a piece of scothbrite very easily and could not of held-up to our roads in the winter time, they spray both salt and liquid 'metal killer' on our roads anytime it falls below 35 F. After the metal is coated,(thinking very seriously of using Lizard skin coating per Drew's advice). I will also have to cut the trans tunnel out when I get the LGT SS 700 5-Speeder from Keisler. Still waiting for that tranny!

Almost done stripping both the interior and bottom of the floorpans. Used methyl chloride to remove the undercoating, nasty stuff, I got some on my wrists working overhead, burned the skin right off!

This by far the nastiest dirtiest part of the job. I was gonna spray the bare spots that had slight surface rust, but decided to do it right and start from scratch. Seal, prime, paint then undercoat. I am going to attempt to finish the '72' by June 2013, This will give me about 6 weeks of Test&Tune and make any durability enhancements. It's gotta drive over 5,000 miles without a breakdown!

I hung my completely stripped shell from the rafters of my brothers workshop and sand blasted the entire thing, inside, outside, every nook and cranny............ worth every minute I spent doin it
Lookin good tho Ed, how much are you gonna mod the trans tunnel?
Good opportunity to fab some cool stuff

I'm gonna sandblast the front wheel wells this spring. They are crusty and nasty but no rust thru. I think I'm gonna have to cut out the portion thats still white, and replace it with a tunnel sheetmetal stamped part that they provide in the kit. If so then I,ll cut that out and sell it on Moparts complete with auto stick and console. As far as fab work, I gotta make this as simple as possible. Time and reliability are my objectives. June 30th 2013 will get here way too fast, I may get desperate and do something crazy!

Cockpit#1

Cockpit#2

Nice work Edd, same process I followed with my 72, floor pan came out excellent and looks factory.
Are you refitting the centre console? I ground that bracket off mine and wish I'd left it now

Adrian Worman wrote:Nice work Edd, same process I followed with my 72, floor pan came out excellent and looks factory.
Are you refitting the centre console? I ground that bracket off mine and wish I'd left it now

Thanks Ade, I think I'm gonna wait till I get the new manual trans and the tunnel from Keisler. This way if I decide to go with an auto,(I hate the idea!), I'll be set for the console. Typically, I would like to delete the console with a manual shifter,,just like my 70,,nothing to get in yer way!

Looking good Eddie. If I can make it up your way in the next couple of months I can bring my Drag-On plasma cutter with me if you need it.
I'm hoping to try and get up there by April, give or take a month. I'll bring some loud toys too

Sounds great Barc! I wont need a plasma cutter for a while, at least not until late spring early summer. But I appreciate it! Yeah, let me know when you come by this area, we gotta hook up! (812-299-2830)

The factory electrical system has some serious shortcomings like the factory main feed wire to the Ammeter,(I will use a aftermarket VoltMeter), the single pulley alternator,(Hi Amp Alternators use a dual belt pulley), no main feed terminal for added accessories like the electric fans for the radiator, electric fuel pump, extra driving lights ect, I need a reliable electrical system! I am also going to mount the battery in the trunk with a battery trunk kit from Mancini or Moroso, Jeggies ectt so,, I ordered the Complete kit(s), from MAD electrical, spoke to Mark at MAD for an hour,, I'm sold!! I'll post pics of it when it arrives soon,,Happy New Years,,Dave drink a Jigger of that nasty Scots Whiskey for me,, I couldnt get a drip down my throat without it coming out my nose!!

Good idea Ed, that electrical system is 4 decades old, didn't work properly in the first place either
Ever tried snorting whiskey UP ya nose? Try it

Adrian Worman wrote:Good idea Ed, that electrical system is 4 decades old, didn't work properly in the first place either
Ever tried snorting whiskey UP ya nose? Try it

My eyes are watering,, thinking about it! I also have a large 'schnozola' would be great for snorting too, as well as massive and strong steriod built ears Dave is the guy to see about snorting Scot's Whiskey,, man,,amazing!

Sorry I havent been on here much anymore,, Facebook, Mopax Auto X a MoPar only roadrace site, and my new shop is being constructed along with home improvements,(New bathroom, living room addition, flooring ect). I installed a battery box kit, it's nice but they sent the wrong fasteners, had to weld a bit, nice 1/0 Gauge Pos cable, I welded a 3/8" threaded stud to the pass frame rail for the Earth Connection, then I mounted the MAD electrical start-em up solenoid with a homemade bracket to the trunklid brace, as I didnt want the Fragile solenoid laying on the trunk floor. Actually, the ONLY adavntage of the batt box kit over a homemade angle iron kit and some threaded 3/8 rod,, is the fact that you can vent the Hyd. acid gasses from the batt box away from the interior of the car to atmosphere.

dude that thing will never fail nice work,you did motivate me , I got a cut off switch , the kind they use on Fire ,and Police vehicles , Got my Cop neighbor to take me to the light house got a good one

Nice work Ed, good to see you back posting up pics now your 72 starting to come along a bit
Same goes for Drew, that fish has really got a move on.......must be something to do with the water signs
What's that mope only road race site called? Mopa X? Sounds like a place I need to visit

Adrian Worman wrote:Nice work Ed, good to see you back posting up pics now your 72 starting to come along a bit
Same goes for Drew, that fish has really got a move on.......must be something to do with the water signs
What's that mope only road race site called? Mopa X? Sounds like a place I need to visit

Yes what is this MoparX you speak of?

Nice 'current' Off/On switch Drew! I remember the retired Policeman next door to you,, great guy! The Mopax site is for serious G-Machine MoPars and roadcourse MoPars. It's by invitation only and is run by Chris Heiny here is the link.. http://sports.groups.yahoo.com/group/mo ... der/0/list

Ade Thank you for asking about me & my family. I tried to send you 2 diff messages,, I cant seem to get thru?? weird

Just reading em now mate over breakfast

Adrian Worman wrote:Just reading em now mate over breakfast

Ok I'm on now,, my webroot Anti-Virus software is very robust! I posted on Apelwaski brake system cable,,I think he is in for a rude awakening,,my 72 versus the 70 has different brackets, the 72 has a single hole bracket on each side to hold the E-brake cable in with the caliper/drum cable. You will have to weld 2 small 1 hole tabs on each side,(inboard frame rail) on the 70 to use the 4 cable 71 up system. I posted this on his thread. I ordered the Dr, Diff Brembo 13" Viper Calipers gen II 2004 and a 7/8 Manual Master with adaptor, heat shield, hoses, adj. proportioning valve, custom steel hubs for my Bullitt wheels, the whole shebang! Will post pics of the whole kit when I get it. Eddie

Just found out the AR Eng. brake kits,,,discontinued! Damn,, already bought my SN-95 wheels,, Talking with Cass (Dr. Diff), he says he can give me a spacer to use 1/2 thick with extra long studs and use his brake kit with 13" rotors,, well see. Hope I dont have to get new wheels Again

. Hope I dont have to get new wheels Again


I dont use spacers to much stress especially on a road course ,and besides they are for a muzzie ,sell em e bag

OK, I just sent the check to Keisler! The whole kit, SS 700 LGT 5-speeder OD tranny, Alluminum/Titanium SFI Bellhousing, Billet 6-bolt flywheel nuetral balance, twin disc clutch good for over 1000 HP or 1000 FT. Lbs. hydraulic clutch actuator kit, Pedal assembly, Pistol Grip shifter, 1350 Yoke Chrome-Moly driveshaft, crossmember with mount. Grade 8 fasteners, 2 pigtails one for mechanical or electric speedos, Special flywheel bolts. No need to replace my tunnel,,fits in an auto floor shift tunnel. Cost? Big Bucks!

Good on yer mate
Big bucks ? maybe.........big fun? GUARANTEED!!!!!

I also ordered the entire FF line-up,,featuring adj. strut rods due to non-factory,(thicker) black poly bushings with greasable lower arm shaft, and re-inforced k-frame, Moog Lower ball joints, 1.12 T-Bars, re-inforced lower control arms, tubular gusseted upper control arms, sector support shaft kit, C-Body solid tie rods, Bilstein E-Body specific valved dampers. Now,, I'm still waiting on the DR. Diff 13" X1.250 thick Viper brake kit with 4 piston Brembo's(2004 Dodge Viper) 7/8 Master, forged alluminum hubs, stainless flex hoses, MC adapator(2 bolt), no need to change brake pushrod,caliper adaptors, new bearings, races, seal, dust cap. This should also maintain the 2:1 brake bias, which is critical. I'll also post pic when all this Parts Porn arrives!

Cost? Big Bucks! Did they just bend you over? and then break it off in yer

Nice suspension parts ,cant wait to hear your belly now