The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Here's what I have so far. Hope you like em. I will post more over the weekend if anyone is interested(or not)

Just a thought : since you're doing such a complete job, why don't you use the original bracket for the ECU? Trying to hide the box from view?

I'm saying this because quite a number of people have problems with the orange box, which can run quite hot. The bracket allows air to flow behind the box and helps cool it.
Year One carries repros of this bracket.

Now, if you really want to hide it (after all, it's not a 1970 item), I've seen some under the battery tray...

charliek wrote:...if anyone is interested(or not)

Hey, c´mon, of course we are...

fbernard wrote:Just a thought : since you're doing such a complete job, why don't you use the original bracket for the ECU? Trying to hide the box from view?

Low down like that it is going to get hot from the exhaust manifold too.

It's gorgeous! Those guys are right on about the ECU. It might last a while but...I have mine in the glovebox/behind it actually. Thanks for posting! Keep the pics coming!

since the orange ECU is not a 1970 item how would I put it back to the way it should be? Or would I be better off leaving it with the no points distributor? I realized the distributor is not correct, to change it back should it be a dual point ditributor? I see them on ebay. Thanks for everyones input.

would I be better off with this ecu?

It's not the color of the box that's not period correct, it's the box itself.
That being said, an electronic ignition will require less maintenance.
I'm not saying it will be more reliable (always have a spare ECU in the glove box or the trunk).
You could use a points distributor converted to electronic using a Pertronix module (in that case, the advice about carying a spare still applies).
You could use a points distributor, it will require more frequent tune-ups, but it works.
You could use a modern MSD-like box (hidden away from view under the dash), and hide most of the wiring so that only the distributor will give it away.
You could use a self-contained ignition system inside the distributor (DUI, MSD Digital E-curve). It will scream "aftermarket" everytime you lift the hood though.


Points are easy to set once you know how, it's not rocket science. They usually give plenty of warning when they go wrong (unlike the electronic ECUs which function perfectly until they're dead, usually at night, under a heady downpour, on the highway).

On the other hand, electronic ignition pickups require no adjustment. They don't wear like points do. They give more power, slightly better mpg, and advanced models give multiple sparks at lower RPM, include a rev limiter, etc..

Lots of options, depends on what you want the car to look like.

If I wanted the car to look OEM (if the car is a stock or near-stock restoration), I'd go points or Pertronix, or hide the orange box under the battery tray (it needs to be vented, so it should stay in the engine bay).

Here's what the OEM ECU bracket looks like : http://www.yearone.com/serverfiles/fbsh ... =112AF4894

Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points. Don't use points.

I HATE them!!

You will lose power and it will not fire up and run as well. You can set them to run perfectly. Or as well as they can be. But they will never work as well as the electronic.
500-1000 miles later they will be slightly off again and get worse quickly.

If this is a high dollar car and HAS to be a perfect restoration then fair enough. Use points.

If you hide the orange box not many people will notice. If you don't hide it not many people will care.

I like the direction you ae headed. Color selection............

I found what I think is a good place to hide the ECU. I mounted it underneath and between the cowl screens. I made a small bracket and using the screws that hold the screens mounted it underneath where it can not be seen, but will get cool air. I ran the wires out of the same hole that the wire loom bracket snaps into.