The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Some more action.loL
I finally got the inserts and console swapped out.

Also put the shifter console chrome insert in.

Getting ready for Sub-frame connectors.

Tom

Top-side of Chrome, the shift indicator doesn't snap in like the original, so I used a bit of clear adhesive to hold it in.

Tom

Looks perfect to me Tom!

I really like that composite look where it use to be wood.. Really nice touch!

Thanks guys,

I thought the CF looked like it belonged better than the wood. Everything is black and silver and the wood just seemed wrong to me. At least once I added the CF Handle.LOL

Tom

Some eye candy for ya'll.LOL

Picked it up Sunday, been pre-fitting some stuff to make sure install in car goes smooth.

Tom

422 4"arm 4.1" bore

Diamond custom pistons~10.2-1 comp
Crane 302 cam hydraulic
587 Iron Heads 2.05Int 1.60Ex Port+polish 5 angle valve job
Summit Intake 770 Avenger Carb
Doug's headers p453

Beautiful stuff. Really like the look of the interior the way you have it. You had the same idea as me about those inserts, except I'm replacing mine with polished aluminum pieces with a pair of my extra Challenger emblems. My plastic dash pieces under the gauges were broken, so those are aluminum panels too. Having pieces laser cut at work too to make a new aluminum console.

Do you have problems cranking the windows with those speakers there? Mine are a 1/4 inch too close to the window cranks and scrape the speaker grilles if I'm not careful.

Looks like you have the exact same radiator as the one I got off ebay, too! Where'd you get the coolant catch can, that looks beautiful! I know where my next paycheck is going now.....

Thanks MM72, I got the catch can from JC Whitney of all places.LOL It was like 40 bucks. The speakers were a problem, but I got some window crank handles from the parts store and put a little bend in them in the vise, very little and they clear easy now. Pretty unoticeable that they have a bend.

Tom

Motor with acc's and MP VC's added.

Finished bolting in the Subframes, I'd like to have someone weld them in real nice for me later. I need to paint the bottom and sides later. I brushed the top sides already with some rustoleum.

Got the old Transmission/Driveshaft back in until the new one is done. Got a free converter from the engne builder for being so patient.LOL

Installed the Drivers side caliper and tied the brake lines in to the M/C and bled all 4 wheels.


Got the car down off the Jackstands getting ready for the bullet install.

Tom

Gorgeous!!! Go TOM GO!!!

Wow! That was sures some sweet eyecandy for me Love the look of your engine, YEAH!

It´s close now .......

There is a rod/sway-bar or something pointing against the rear axle. What is it? I do not recoqnize it. (See pic below)

Nice to see your progress.

Thanks Guys, Christer, Yes that is a Sway bar from hellwig. Not the best but it is pretty solid. I used bolts through the frame vs the self tappers they sent.

Since I put the Sway Bars(front/rear) and Subframe connectors, there is little to no creaking when the car is jacked up. If I lift at the front the rear comes up quick with little delay.

Tom

72challengerorange wrote:Thanks Guys, Christer, Yes that is a Sway bar from hellwig. Not the best but it is pretty solid. I used bolts through the frame vs the self tappers they sent.

So the sway bar bracket and the subframe connector uses the same two attaching bolts? That is neat!

If you hppen to have a pic of the rear sway bar setup from another angle then please post it.

Get those frame connectors welded in and it will be better.

christer wrote:

72challengerorange wrote:Thanks Guys, Christer, Yes that is a Sway bar from hellwig. Not the best but it is pretty solid. I used bolts through the frame vs the self tappers they sent.

So the sway bar bracket and the subframe connector uses the same two attaching bolts? That is neat!

If you hppen to have a pic of the rear sway bar setup from another angle then please post it.

It actually bolts to the framerail under the sF conn.

I'll get some pics soon.

Tom

dave-r wrote:Get those frame connectors welded in and it will be better.

It is on the list to do, but there are some other pressing matters.LOL

Tom

Like this!

Tom

Oh Yeah

More progress.

Tom

Really like the air cleaner on there. You have all the hardware to seal it with the T/A hood?

Moparman1972 wrote:Really like the air cleaner on there. You have all the hardware to seal it with the T/A hood?

Still working on something. I'll take a look at it when the hood is on.

Tom

I am working on a way to panel off the underside of the R/T hood on mine so the 3-inch filter gets air from the two scoops. I don't think I will seal it completely though.

Yeah figured that most of the air will be fresh with the T/A hood anyways.

Tom

could u tell me what size tires and rims and backspacing u used on your orange car........i beleive those are torq thrust?

73challengerguy wrote:could u tell me what size tires and rims and backspacing u used on your orange car........i beleive those are torq thrust?

These are Foose Nitrous II's 17x8 w/4.5" BS F+R 245/45/17F and 255/45/17R.

Tom

Working...
MP Starter
Doug's Headers
Summit 2.5" exhaust

Tom

Tip. Use heat reflective tape on the wires to the starter motor to stop them getting hot from the headers.

Same with the transmission cooler lines. or you can route the lines away from the headers using -6AN line.

dave-r wrote:Tip. Use heat reflective tape on the wires to the starter motor to stop them getting hot from the headers.

Same with the transmission cooler lines. or you can route the lines away from the headers using -6AN line.

Thanks Dave, I think I will get some as the trans lines are pretty colose( I bent them down to clear. I upgraded the starter wire to a 1/0 IIRC to help too. I do have a starter wrap for it.

When I swap the trans to the 727 I'll do something a bit more permanent, maybe the -6AN lines.

Tom