Postby fbernard » 17 Jun 2009 17:43

dave-r wrote:I was at MORPETH in NORTHUMBERLAND. :lol:


That's what I thought. North of Newcastle. Penguin land if you ask me! the farthest North I've ever been was King's Lynn, and I remember really cold days in August...
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Postby dave-r » 18 Jun 2009 12:15

If it is not snowing it is T-shirt weather in Newcastle.

Sometimes even if it is snowing too. :lol:

Yes even the Romans decided they didn't want to go any further than this. That's why they built the wall from coast to coast and hid behind the Southern side for over 100 years before finally giving up and going home. :twisted:
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Postby fbernard » 18 Jun 2009 23:53

dave-r wrote:If it is not snowing it is T-shirt weather in Newcastle.


I've seen that kind of reasoning at work on skirt lengths in Bedford too.
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Postby dave-r » 21 Jun 2009 18:30

OK. I have done a series of tuning tests now.

I still might add a little more initial timing. I also need to plot the timing curve. One of the guys in my car club has found that with his timing locked out the MDS unit on his car retards the timing 5 degrees at 3000rpm. :shock: So I need to check the timing curve in 500rpm increments to check it.

At idle (in gear @ 800rpm) I have;

14.5 AF ratio and 8 inches of vacuum.

I am thinking I need to go up from the 4.5" power valve to a 6.5. Any thoughts or suggestions on that?

Driving in top gear at 2000rpm (only on the center carb) I have 13.7 to 14.0 A/F ratio and 16 inches of vacuum.

At 4000rpm (outer carbs should be open some) I have 13.2-13.4 A/F ratio and around 17-18 inches of vacuum.

I was thinking of going up one jet size on the center carb. That should bring the center carb down to about 13.2:1 A/F ratio and the total with the outer carbs just a touch richer.

Again. Any comments or suggestions are welcome.
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Postby jimbob 440 » 21 Jun 2009 19:54

if any help dave mine idles at 900rpm and 10" vac at idle , i use a 6.5pv and seems fine, as for timing i use mopar dizzy 18-20 static 36-38 total all in by 2500rpm motor loves it not a rattle in sight, havent had much to with msd :thumbsup:
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Postby dave-r » 21 Jun 2009 20:14

I have the timing at 18 initial and 35 total @ 3000rpm but I am not sure exactly what rpm it hits the total hence the need to do a timing curve.

I might bang it up one or two degrees and richen the idle mixture just a little because after a fast run and then heavy braking it stalled when I came to a stop at a roundabout.
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Postby jimbob 440 » 21 Jun 2009 20:32

ive heard many people say that mopar engines are happy at 34 deg, i had mine set on this and thats how i had it set on the yanks weekend, since then like i say ive gone to 38 total its got loads more grunt and more responsive low down, as we on similar spec motors i,d certainly head for 36-38, my only prob is at 20deg when hot can be a bit tough to crank over, to be almost cutting out coming to a halt does sound a bit lean on idle, maybe increase the idle speed up a bit to, hence why i set mine at 900rpm, even with a 3500rpm stall it doesnt like a low idle speed
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Postby dave-r » 21 Jun 2009 20:38

I used to run at 38 degrees years ago but was getting some "pinking" when the engine was under load.

Different cam now and with bigger valve reliefs, notched cylinders, better exhaust, cooler running engine, etc it might just take a bit more timing than it did.

Thanks for the pointers mate. :s017:
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Postby Eddie » 21 Jun 2009 20:49

I would try the larger 6.5 power valve first, then monitor the ratio, but I think you are going to need to richen the center carb 1 Jet size larger. It's definitely a bit lean now,, maybe thats why the Temp. crept up a bit on you?
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Postby jimbob 440 » 21 Jun 2009 20:54

was that with a mopar dizzy tho ? reason i ask i used to run stock springs in mine , even tho it would be set at 36-38 @ 3000rpm it would overide the big purple spring at around 4500rpm would be reading 43-44deg and at that point would be rattling its arse off, the cure was to fit one of neils advance limiter plates, (fits under the T above the advance weights) remove the big spring and just use 1 light spring hence getting all my advance in by 2500rpm plus using an fbo system works a treat :thumbsup:
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Postby dave-r » 22 Jun 2009 7:49

No it's a MSD billet dizzy. It is maxed out at 3000rpm for sure. Just not sure if it reaches max before then or not.

Eddie my engine is actually running cooler than it used to. It is my transmission that is creeping up. After about a half hour on the road it gets up to 230 degrees but seems to settle there. I am getting a bigger trans cooler to try.
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Postby jh27n0b » 22 Jun 2009 10:23

Dave, The car is looking real sweet. It is so nice to see her on the road again. I love the wheels.
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Postby drewcrane » 22 Jun 2009 12:17

dave-r wrote:No it's a MSD billet dizzy. It is maxed out at 3000rpm for sure. Just not sure if it reaches max before then or not.

Eddie my engine is actually running cooler than it used to. It is my transmission that is creeping up. After about a half hour on the road it gets up to 230 degrees but seems to settle there. I am getting a bigger trans cooler to try.
what rear gears are you running?
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Postby dave-r » 22 Jun 2009 12:19

4.30:1. But with the GV overdrive on it is more like 3.30:1
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Postby jimbob 440 » 22 Jun 2009 18:00

4.30 gears should make up for your reaction time then :lol: :lol:
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Postby dave-r » 22 Jun 2009 18:01

When I am on a good day maybe. :lol:
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Postby jimbob 440 » 22 Jun 2009 18:06

i know you use the gv on the strip but what size slicks you gona use with 4.30 gears ?
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Postby drewcrane » 22 Jun 2009 18:49

ok i know alot of questions but is that gv holding up? with those high temps
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Postby dave-r » 22 Jun 2009 19:29

28x10 slicks Jimbob.

Drew the GV unit has its own oil. It is not effected by transmission temp.
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Postby drewcrane » 22 Jun 2009 21:39

ahh i see thanks dave :thumbsup:
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Postby dave-r » 26 Jun 2009 9:02

airfuelEddie wrote:I got the pics on FB the engine looks really swell. I like the way you painted the billet Air cleaner form Pro-Max,, it 'blends' in very nicely.


I missed this post when you made it Eddie.

I sold the Pro-Max billet air cleaner. It is simply WAY too small to flow enough air for even a stock 440.
I say "sold" it but actually the guy never paid me. :x

That air cleaner you see on my car is a modified stock base and a home made lid. Filter is same size as stock six pack but one inch taller.
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Postby Eddie » 26 Jun 2009 14:52

dave-r wrote:
airfuelEddie wrote:I got the pics on FB the engine looks really swell. I like the way you painted the billet Air cleaner form Pro-Max,, it 'blends' in very nicely.


I missed this post when you made it Eddie.

I sold the Pro-Max billet air cleaner. It is simply WAY too small to flow enough air for even a stock 440.
I say "sold" it but actually the guy never paid me. :x

That air cleaner you see on my car is a modified stock base and a home made lid. Filter is same size as stock six pack but one inch taller.
Well you sure fooled me man. :lol: I like your design better anyways. And of course it flows better too! :thumbsup: The Pro-Max billet was nice but it looks more like a "Hot Rod" style AC. Those guys give up performance for looks and packaging.
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Postby dave-r » 26 Jun 2009 15:28

:lol:

4840_91633447698_830012698_1849951_1461410_n.jpg
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Postby Eddie » 26 Jun 2009 15:46

Dave 'Foose' Robson!!! :lol: :thumbsup: It looks more like the factory setup but most importantly it's very tidy, neat and clean! Nice work Dave!! I had my truck on the dyno and have a 3"x15" K&N X-Stream AirCleaner/Filter setup. By removing the Air Cleaner assembly I gained 16 H.P.!! I thought maybe 2 or 3 H.P. and some guys claim a NO H.P. loss,,but I had the opposite results. :lol:
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Postby RedRaven » 26 Jun 2009 16:01

[quote="airfuelEddie"]Dave 'Foose' Robson!!! quote]

More like

Dave'Fookin'Robson!!!!..........................................................












































Like......Man............. :s024:


By the way Eddie.........I get to see Dave and his Missus........and of course his car in a few weeks!!!
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Postby Eddie » 26 Jun 2009 16:15

Sounds like a fookin good time Wayne. :thumbsup: I forgot to ask Dave if he 'opened' his exhaust cutouts and zinged the engine and scared any small children at the show! :lol: I have a small show this next weekend I am thinking about going to. It's got a Bikini Contest! Farm chicks wet&Wild! :lol:
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Postby RedRaven » 26 Jun 2009 16:31

airfuelEddie wrote: It's got a Bikini Contest! Farm chicks wet&Wild! :lol:


You lucky Fooker!!! :s024:
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Postby Jon » 27 Jun 2009 3:20

Get some good pics if you sneak away from the wife. :s021: :lol:
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Postby dave-r » 27 Jun 2009 10:34

airfuelEddie wrote:Dave 'Foose' Robson!!! :lol: :thumbsup: It looks more like the factory setup but most importantly it's very tidy, neat and clean! Nice work Dave!! I had my truck on the dyno and have a 3"x15" K&N X-Stream AirCleaner/Filter setup. By removing the Air Cleaner assembly I gained 16 H.P.!! I thought maybe 2 or 3 H.P. and some guys claim a NO H.P. loss,,but I had the opposite results. :lol:


Air cleaner base and lid design have a lot to answer for. Usually they are designed to fit under the hood rather than flow air into the carb.
You also need to make sure you have enough square inches of filter element to flow the air needed. I think K&N filter material only flows 6cfm per square inch.
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Postby dave-r » 27 Jun 2009 12:20

airfuelEddie wrote:I forgot to ask Dave if he 'opened' his exhaust cutouts and zinged the engine and scared any small children at the show! :lol:


Yes I did. One woman jumped and yelped out loud. :D
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