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PostPosted: 21 May 2008 21:27
by drewcrane
dave-r wrote:
Moparman1972 wrote:I've also heard that those remote cutouts fail quickly due to corrosion from exhaust/moisture/etc. Hope you have better luck!


The guys I know have been running them for a couple of years now. They are completely stainless steel so as long as I keep them clean they should last a long time.

I will let you know if i ever get the damn thing running to start with! :fight: :crazy:
yes i have had 3 exhaust systems on my car so i know how you feel i had the tti sysstem , i love there headers, but i felt the rear hangers are way to big and i fab.a new system, i also didnt like the funky bend on one side that didnt match the other, and when bolted i couldent see why the need for th extra bend, oh well its an after market part which when it says" bolt on" that means it wont fit the first time,and probably need persuasion :biggrin: :rage: :rage:

PostPosted: 21 May 2008 22:49
by jh27n0b
Great looking job Dave. My hat is off to you. You are a true craftsman. If you could just figure out how to get Red's avitar to finish.
Bob

PostPosted: 22 May 2008 8:53
by dave-r
I just checked the TTI footnotes more carefully.

If you have a 1966-70 B-body or a 1965-73 C-body their 3" exhaust system will fit with a GV overdrive.

But not on the E-body. Because E-Bodys are SO much different to B-Body aren't they? :roll:

So I will have to get the angle grinder out tonight.

PostPosted: 22 May 2008 11:24
by drewcrane
dave-r wrote:I just checked the TTI footnotes more carefully.

If you have a 1966-70 B-body or a 1965-73 C-body their 3" exhaust system will fit with a GV overdrive.

But not on the E-body. Because E-Bodys are SO much different to B-Body aren't they? :roll:

So I will have to get the angle grinder out tonight.
sparks will fly :lol:

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 18:09
by dave-r
I started cutting up the new TTI exhaust last week.

I am trying to only cut the straight sections where possible to maintain the smooth mandrel bends.

The whole area around the H-pipe has been shortened, widened and moved forwards. This is so I can turn out the main part of the system so it runs down either side of the overdrive unit. The shape of the pipes here is more complicated than it looks in the photos. They bend in the vertical plane as well as horizontally.

So far so good but I need about 4 inches of 2.5 diameter pipe to re-join the H-Pipe.

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 18:15
by jh27n0b
Good work Dave. It must be exhausting work though. :lol:

Bob
Sorry, I could not resist.

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 18:17
by jh27n0b
Also remember Dave,

No muff too tough, No pipe too tight. :wink:

Sorry again
Bob

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 18:20
by dave-r
:roll:

I tell you what. I have impressed myself with my joins. :biggrin:

I have found that if I close one eye, and stick my tongue out of the corner of my mouth, I can make a pretty straight cut with the angle grinder. They just need a couple of mins work with a coarse file to finish off.
I use my wifes granite chopping board as a straight surface to check the ends of the pipe against. :wink2:

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 20:17
by Eddie
Dave, are you gonna put some O2 bung(s) in? It's nice to have a bunghole for a tuning aid,(Sorry couldnt resist, Hoosiers are like that right Bob) :lol:

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 20:48
by drewcrane
dave-r wrote::roll:

I tell you what. I have impressed myself with my joins. :biggrin:

I have found that if I close one eye, and stick my tongue out of the corner of my mouth, I can make a pretty straight cut with the angle grinder. They just need a couple of mins work with a coarse file to finish off.
I use my wifes granite chopping board as a straight surface to check the ends of the pipe against. :wink2:
if my wife caught me using her granite cutting board she would do a drop kick to my groin :frown: it looks sweet dave , i also thought that those elec. cot outs were kept clean like you said , and perhaps a shot of wd 40 or something of the like, they should last, its not like these cars go out in the weather, and are parked on the street, or worse yet driven in the mud! i cant wait till your done!ill bet you cant either! :lol2:

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 20:49
by drewcrane
airfuelEddie wrote:Dave, are you gonna put some O2 bung(s) in? It's nice to have a bunghole for a tuning aid,(Sorry couldnt resist, Hoosiers are like that right Bob) :lol:
yes i have bungs in exhaust and that is why cut outs wont fit my current system :frown: :tears:

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 21:19
by dave-r
drewcrane wrote:if my wife caught me using her granite cutting board she would do a drop kick to my groin :frown:


I don't like that cutting board anyway. It blunts my expensive kitchen knives and I have to keep sharpening them. I like them razor sharp.

But it is good for checking the straightness of your pushrods. :twisted:

PostPosted: 27 May 2008 21:22
by dave-r
drewcrane wrote:
airfuelEddie wrote:Dave, are you gonna put some O2 bung(s) in? It's nice to have a bunghole for a tuning aid,(Sorry couldnt resist, Hoosiers are like that right Bob) :lol:
yes i have bungs in exhaust and that is why cut outs wont fit my current system :frown: :tears:


I am putting my cut-outs just past the overdrive unit downstream from the H-pipe. Much more room there and the fumes exiting behind me.

PostPosted: 31 May 2008 20:14
by dave-r
Got a little further with it.

PostPosted: 31 May 2008 22:06
by drewcrane
dave-r wrote:Got a little further with it.
that looks like some kinda musical instrument, or some kind of plumbing , looks sweet :biggrin:

PostPosted: 11 Jun 2008 20:27
by dave-r
I have been involved in a major works project at work the last couple of weeks and along with weekends away and with a general lack of energy due to my illness when I get home i have not been able to do much on the car. I still have about three weeks on this project at work too.

But tonight I finally finish welded the passenger side exhaust pipe. All I need to do on that side now is shorten the tail pipe slightly and drill the trunk floor for the tailpipe hanger.

I will also grind the welds down slightly to check for pinholes in my welding.

I need to get into gear or i will not make the EuroNats in the car. But I get so tired with this illness and if I push myself too hard i just make myself more ill. :(

PostPosted: 12 Jun 2008 2:23
by rtse4406pack
great work dave.

i hope your health keeps up with you so you can enjoy your car at the euronats!

PostPosted: 12 Jun 2008 2:52
by Jon
Welds looks good. :thumbsup: Is that stainless tubing you're working with?

Take it easy though, nothing is more precious than your health. :blushes:

PostPosted: 12 Jun 2008 9:50
by dave-r
Jon wrote:Welds looks good. :thumbsup: Is that stainless tubing you're working with?


The only stainless bit I am using is where I have extended the ballance pipe (H-pipe) to take into account the wider route the pipes have to take.

It just happened that I was given a bit a stainless the right size. But it will be handy as that will make it easier to remove the system at any time because it will not rust.

PostPosted: 16 Jun 2008 20:14
by dave-r
Getting close to finishing.

I had to bend the left side cut-out away from the speedo cable into the GV unit.
Completely ignoring my own advice to only tack weld until the whole length is complete, I had to change the angle of the cut-out after welding it because of the emergency brake being in the way of the muffler so now the left side cut-out turns down over a half inch more than on the right side.
It is annoying but something people probably will not notice with the car on the ground.

Other that that the system has quite good ground clearance despite being somewhat lower that the stock TTI system is supposed to fit.

I might have time to mount one tailpipe tomorrow night.

I also wrapped the speedo cable in protective tape where it comes close to the pipe. You can see how close it is in one photo.

PostPosted: 16 Jun 2008 20:58
by Eddie
It looks really trick and well thought out Dave! Are you going to use thermo sleeve Heat reflective material around the Speedo Cable? It might help stave off meltdown?(Please) Be careful with those blocks under your tyres. :lol:

PostPosted: 17 Jun 2008 7:35
by dave-r
Those old blocks are solid mate. Don't worry about them. They only look small compared to the wheels and tyres. :wink2:

I tried pushing the car sideways on them before I got under. Nothing is moving.

The rears are on extra high ramps made years ago by a shipyard welder. You would like them. Very solid. I am their fourth owner.

PostPosted: 17 Jun 2008 13:11
by Eddie
Cool! I know you are trying to make it to the 'Nats' and I just had to ask. :lol: :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 17 Jun 2008 13:21
by dave-r
airfuelEddie wrote:It looks really trick and well thought out Dave! Are you going to use thermo sleeve Heat reflective material around the Speedo Cable?


Already on there Eddie. :thumbsup:
I have it around the trans cooler lines where they pass over the header collectors too. And the shifter cable.

PostPosted: 17 Jun 2008 18:40
by Eddie
I knew you would come up with a 'fix' for that cable! :nod:

PostPosted: 27 Jun 2008 13:09
by dave-r
Exhaust now complete and fitted.

PostPosted: 27 Jun 2008 13:35
by ianandjess
great progress there dave mine seems to have stalled at the moment but i should get going again soon ive nearly got through all the other things that have been stealing my time keep up the good work
cheers ian

PostPosted: 27 Jun 2008 13:40
by Eddie
Looks really trick! :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 01 Jul 2008 20:39
by dave-r
Starting to look more complete now the fenders are back on but still weeks of work to do....

PostPosted: 02 Jul 2008 2:23
by Jon
Looks good Dave, bet you are having fun putting it all back together. :thumbsup: