if your into mods, check around for an early B-body rearend housing and axles. it is 1.5 inches narrower and will tuck those wheels under your wheelwells. (That is if you are scraping your tires. You may be perfectly content.)
LITEMUP (Von) wrote:if your into mods, check around for an early B-body rearend housing and axles. it is 1.5 inches narrower and will tuck those wheels under your wheelwells. (That is if you are scraping your tires. You may be perfectly content.)
Is this thrue guys? Are these axles, housing the same size, fitting?
The deal with those axles Jimi is they were pressed on the hubs, pinned with a woodruf key I think, then they went to the flanged axle on the 8 3/4 in 1965/66 eliminating the pinned axle feature. This old style axle was very difficult to service and not the strongest setup. You can see the 'cotter key' on those pre flanged axles pre 1965 I think was the year.
Thanks Dave, interesting, it's approx. 1 1/2" shorter than what you would need but given the spring pads will need to be re-located, the width might work to your advantage regarding wheel offset, it might make it better for wider wheels if it doesnt interfere with the wheel tubs.
Normally it is the springs that are the problem and not the axle width.
Axle width can be got over just by using the correct backspacing on the wheel. However that is no good if the springs are in the way.
Offset spring hangers are the way to go with stock or close to stock width axles.
Relocating the spring hangers inboard usually calls for a shorter axle than any of those listed as well as tubs.
The next option after that is to back-half the car of course.