Clint 1972 Challenger
Posted: 01 Oct 2002 3:49the challenger after 18 years in my fathers garage...
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Posted: 01 Oct 2002 3:49Clint 1972 Challenger
Posted: 01 Oct 2002 4:38Give that baby a bath! I'm glad it can see sunlight, maybe next will be a highway.
Clint 1972 Challenger
Posted: 01 Oct 2002 13:23Here is the fender code:
R11 V7W 26 EN2
H51 J25 L25 L31 M21 M42
V1W U C16 C56 G11 G35
HT8 B(P?)6XW 000 823 408667
E44 D34 JH23 G2B 243962
R11 V7W 26 EN2
H51 J25 L25 L31 M21 M42
V1W U C16 C56 G11 G35
HT8 B(P?)6XW 000 823 408667
E44 D34 JH23 G2B 243962
Clint 1972 Challenger
Posted: 01 Oct 2002 18:31Clint, As I said, looks like a diamond in the rough. Great project. Do you plan to restore it? I've got lots of spare parts. What part of the world are you from?
Clint 1972 Challenger
Posted: 01 Oct 2002 18:52I'm in the process of restoring it , yes.
The front end is completely apart (engine, fenders, grill, etc.) and trunk lid off.
The trunk floor needs replaced (have the replacements already)
Right rear quarter needs replaced from door to bumper, body line down. I'm going to glue a the new panel on (since I don't know how to weld)
The other quarter just need patched. (glue also)
The trunk lid will be replaced, new vinyl top, a lot of sanding, paint and a engine overhaul are all that's left.
Paint will probably be top banana, but I'm still undecided about the newer MOPAR yellows.
And I'm in Central Illinois!
The front end is completely apart (engine, fenders, grill, etc.) and trunk lid off.
The trunk floor needs replaced (have the replacements already)
Right rear quarter needs replaced from door to bumper, body line down. I'm going to glue a the new panel on (since I don't know how to weld)
The other quarter just need patched. (glue also)
The trunk lid will be replaced, new vinyl top, a lot of sanding, paint and a engine overhaul are all that's left.
Paint will probably be top banana, but I'm still undecided about the newer MOPAR yellows.
And I'm in Central Illinois!
Posted: 29 Sep 2004 13:49Some updated pics:
Posted: 29 Sep 2004 13:50--
Posted: 29 Sep 2004 13:51--
Posted: 29 Sep 2004 13:52--
Posted: 29 Sep 2004 13:53--
Posted: 29 Sep 2004 13:54last one
Posted: 30 Sep 2004 10:58Good to see you giving Ma MoPars creation another life. It isn't s straight forward resto. All the best mate. 
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 14:36more progress..will be in final paint by Thanksgiving.
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 14:48I hope those photos are in reverse order! 
Looking very good.
Looking very good.
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 14:54what do you guys think of the front end alignment?
The drivers wheel has a very steep(negative?) camber and the passenger is out of sync with drivers (when the drivers wheel is facing forward, the passenger wheel faced to the right).
I think an alignment will fix the second problem, but what affects the camber of a wheel?
The drivers wheel has a very steep(negative?) camber and the passenger is out of sync with drivers (when the drivers wheel is facing forward, the passenger wheel faced to the right).
I think an alignment will fix the second problem, but what affects the camber of a wheel?
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 15:00I keep promising to make a drawing to explain this but I think I have forgotton every time. I will do it when I get home tonight.
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 15:15Thanks Dave.
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 16:26Re the steep angle of the drivers side wheel, check the upper ball joint. It caught me out and I was driving around with dislocated ball joint without any noticable effect or noise!
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 17:09Probably more information than you need but let me see if I can explain this.
First of all make sure ALL the front end joints and bushes are good. This may be why your suspension is looking funny.
The bushes that hold the upper control arm (UCA) to the chassis are on excentric cams. As you turn them they move in and out from the chassis.
If you move them both so that they are fully in the UCA moves in too. This causes the wheel to tilt in at the top. Negative caster.
First of all make sure ALL the front end joints and bushes are good. This may be why your suspension is looking funny.
The bushes that hold the upper control arm (UCA) to the chassis are on excentric cams. As you turn them they move in and out from the chassis.
If you move them both so that they are fully in the UCA moves in too. This causes the wheel to tilt in at the top. Negative caster.
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 17:10If you move the rear one in and the forward one out you get caster changes. This is positive caster.
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 17:12The trick is to get as much positive caster as you can while still having a bit of negative camber. You want between 0.5 and 1.0 degrees negative camber.
DON'T use the factory alignment settings!
DON'T use the factory alignment settings!
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 19:48Thanks again Dave. Great diagrams!
Posted: 31 Aug 2005 20:21I hope the thing I cut up to make an UCA was not needed by my wife? 
clint 72 challenger
Posted: 02 Sep 2005 17:08Well done Clint thats looking real sweet my car was nearly as dirty as that when i brought it but forchenatly no where near that rotten ive patched the boot floor for now and soon it will have a replacement.
ps to the other chap who has a load of spares share them with us under for sale or just on chat as im sure folks will gladly buy them especilly us folks this side of the pond
ps to the other chap who has a load of spares share them with us under for sale or just on chat as im sure folks will gladly buy them especilly us folks this side of the pond
Posted: 03 Mar 2006 15:05finally painted!!!
Posted: 03 Mar 2006 15:08Nice color combo. Reminds me of a Bee
Posted: 03 Mar 2006 16:11actually I think my license plates will read BMBL B 3 