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due to boardom

PostPosted: 28 Sep 2008 12:17
by drewcrane
i did use my time up wilst the board was down

PostPosted: 28 Sep 2008 14:38
by Eddie
So you pulled the 383 out of the wifes Cuda Drew? Cool, are you going to wait on the body or start on the engine now? I would love to build a large 383 stroker and keep it stock appearing with dual plane and exhaust manifolds, and blue paint. :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 28 Sep 2008 16:03
by drewcrane
stock appearing with dual plane and exhaust manifolds, and blue paint,sleeper with cheater alloy heads,well......no this engine only has 80,000 miles on it,it runs great,no smoke ,im gonna clean it up and stuff it back in until it i hit the lottery! :s024: :s024: :s025:

PostPosted: 28 Sep 2008 16:12
by Eddie
drewcrane wrote:stock appearing with dual plane and exhaust manifolds, and blue paint,sleeper with cheater alloy heads,well......no this engine only has 80,000 miles on it,it runs great,no smoke ,im gonna clean it up and stuff it back in until it i hit the lottery! :s024: :s024: :s025:
I wish I had that common sense thing! :thumbsup: :lol: Cool

PostPosted: 29 Sep 2008 14:43
by Eddie
Here is the sheetmetal I am working on. The coating I am using is the most scuff resisitant/anti-corrision coating I have ever used. This is my third truck bed I am doing. It would look really well in the trunk, floorpan, engine bay. (Before)

PostPosted: 29 Sep 2008 21:58
by drewcrane
what is that stuff called?it looks smooth , do you have a better angle pic so i can see the texture, a tight focus shot :thumbsup:

Re: due to boardom

PostPosted: 30 Sep 2008 9:00
by christer
drewcrane wrote:i did use my time up wilst the board was down


Is it a small crack on the front end of the left exhaust manifold? It looks like that.

It seems like you prefer to use two of the intake bolts instead of the four carb bolts when it comes to attaching the lift!? I have always thought that the carb bolts look so small, so I guess I would do the same thing myself.

Re: due to boardom

PostPosted: 30 Sep 2008 12:07
by drewcrane
christer wrote:
drewcrane wrote:i did use my time up wilst the board was down


Is it a small crack on the front end of the left exhaust manifold? It looks like that.

It seems like you prefer to use two of the intake bolts instead of the four carb bolts when it comes to attaching the lift!? I have always thought that the carb bolts look so small, so I guess I would do the same thing myself.
good eyes christor, im going to use headers anyway, but ill check it when it is light out to see if it is cracked, and yes i only use that carb cover as a cover and thats it! i to feel that the carb/maniofold is a little on the weak side for lifting an engine and trans at the same tome, also the sling with the pully,and long bolts that bottom out so i know they are seated, works the best in my opinion as it will roll ,and move and as you can see it is all intact,and it came out pretty easy :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 30 Sep 2008 12:30
by drewcrane
christor you got my couriousity i looked at the manifold and it was the way the light hit it for the pic, there is a flange there causing a shadow making it look like a crack, thanks for the eye! :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 30 Sep 2008 17:40
by Eddie
Drew, I havent got to the coating yet. I am still scrubbing the old bed clean for a primer sealer coat then when I get it completed. I will post a finished pic. www.zolatoneaim.com

PostPosted: 30 Sep 2008 20:39
by drewcrane
thank you sir,good info :s017:

Re: due to boardom

PostPosted: 30 Sep 2008 21:12
by christer
drewcrane wrote:i did use my time up wilst the board was down


I see that you are using bags filled with stand as a sort of engine stand, right? Why not? It is a simple and inexpensive way to spread the pressure, and thanks to that prevent things from getting dented.

PostPosted: 01 Oct 2008 2:37
by drewcrane
also to try to keep any fluids from going else where, i did loose a little coolant,yea simple ,cheap, besides i couldnt find a tire , they work well also :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 06 Oct 2008 15:25
by Eddie
drewcrane wrote:what is that stuff called?it looks smooth , do you have a better angle pic so i can see the texture, a tight focus shot :thumbsup:
Here is the Primer Sealer application after it was applied. It's a single stage compound not requiring any activator, just strain and spray. The primer is Expoxy based and flows very well as drying is very short. It requires at least a 2mm tip, which this is rated at 1.8 but actually measured .082, which is a hair over 2mm.(Thanks to thier inaccurate machining it works fine!) :lol: It cleans up with soap&water. Fills deep voids and scratches. I concentrated the spray pattern towards the bottom, omitting the sides. It wasnt needed there. Tonight the coating goes on and I will post completed pics.

PostPosted: 06 Oct 2008 15:48
by Eddie
Application was used with this 2 thousand dollar Saita spray paint gun, LOL, really it was used with this 14.99 Harbor Freight Tawainese paint gun with 1.8 mm tip,(actually measured at .082) and wide angle pattern. LOL :lol:

PostPosted: 06 Oct 2008 17:15
by fal308
EddieWhat is the name of the stuff you're using. Can it be bought at retail or is it jobber only?

PostPosted: 06 Oct 2008 18:51
by Eddie
www.zolatoneaim.com I am using the lilith charcoal. This stuff is made from NitroCellulose,(RDX GUNPOWDER as used in Artillery Shells) No joke! :lol: As far as buying it, it must be purchased through a paint supplier. We get a 5% discount buying it through our school with student I.D. materials cost me 144.00 bucks. Thats 2 quarts of Zolotone 20, 2 quarts of zolotone primer sealer, 1 quart of Zo-Pol Clear. Not a bad price! :thumbsup: I didnt include 3m masking tape(2 rolls), 1 quart surface prep,(de waxer- de greaser), 1 quart solvent to clean paint gun. I'm off to coat it. The entire vehicle must be covered, as this stuff sprays everywhere(50-60 psi with pressure gun only must be used) and is almost impossible to remove, so covering the whole vehicle is mandatory! The urethane tuff rider,(sounds like a condom manufacturer LOL), might be a better choice for waterbourne operations,(mud bogging), as it's desigend for more damp water conditions. This is stuff is the more abrasion resistant of the 2 and it's 'OJ' proof! Blood has NO effect on it.(Page#2) LOL :s024:

PostPosted: 06 Oct 2008 20:21
by drewcrane
nice, complete,comprehensive, info there ed ill save this page !thanks :thumbsup:

PostPosted: 07 Oct 2008 0:53
by Eddie
And here it is, viola,(pronounced Veeoola in Hoosier talk)LOL, I just pulled the masking tape/sheeting off to take this pic. :thumbsup: :lol: It looks 'splotchy' due to the lens and it was shot at almost dark conditions. I'll get a better pic soon. :lol: