New 426 HEMI short block

Postby JackT » 28 Oct 2007 19:17

Sorry I haven't been logged in lately. My GTX developed coolant leaks next to repairs on the block, so I'm gathering parts to build a new short block for the car and swap it out. The 68 block will be repaired again and go on the shelf in my garage but I am leaving the modern block in the car so my driving can be worry-free. The new one is getting KB 211 OEM replacement pistons and a .570 lift solid-lifter 68-style cam. Your thoughts on the scatter shield - should I leave it in the car or replace it with a bell housing to bring the car closer to stock?
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Postby Jon » 29 Oct 2007 2:04

Had the same thought about going original with the bellhousing. So far, the safety issue has prevailed and the Lakewood is still in there. Mine is a modest 340 cid. :?

Another angle might be, if the numbers matching block won't be in the GTX for a while why bother. Just run it..
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Postby JackT » 29 Oct 2007 9:48

I agree about the safety factor. I want to take it down the strip at least once for an ET on it after the new short block is in it. Maybe the bell housing should wait until after that happens. The block in the car isn't the original one, however it is an over-the counter replacement with a June 15, 1968 casting date.
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Postby dave-r » 29 Oct 2007 9:49

I have never been one to worry too much about originallity in any area you can't see with the hood down. :nod:
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Postby Eddie » 29 Oct 2007 13:09

JackT wrote:I agree about the safety factor. I want to take it down the strip at least once for an ET on it after the new short block is in it. Maybe the bell housing should wait until after that happens. The block in the car isn't the original one, however it is an over-the counter replacement with a June 15, 1968 casting date.
Dont know if I understand this correctly Jack T. but could you possibly use the Keisler? It's SFI and able to fit the both types of different diameter clutch assemblies,,has aluminum/titanium alloy much stronger than stock but not much heavier, maybe a pound or two, looks 'stock' unlike the sheetmetal types. Hope this helps, Eddie
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Postby JackT » 29 Oct 2007 17:09

Eddie, I'm not familiar with Keisler's line of stuff.... are you referring to a bell housing or a transmission?
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Postby dave-r » 29 Oct 2007 17:41

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Postby Eddie » 29 Oct 2007 18:55

The Bellhousing only Jack. I used a new Keisler Bellhousing and shelved my original bell. All of the stock Chrysler Combinations ie. B/RB 10.95 &11.00 Hemi clutches as well as the different flywheel combos and starter motors will fit. Also www.Brewersperformance.com also sells new Original style Bellhousings but I used the Keisler and only have experience with that product.I did use Brewers CNC shift rods.
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Postby dave-r » 29 Oct 2007 20:59

Didn't know the Tremec had the same bolt pattern as the MoPar 4-speed. 8)
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Postby Eddie » 29 Oct 2007 21:22

Nope different bolt patterns. The neat thing about the Keisler bell is it's double drilled for both Tremec and A-833 bolt patterns as well as 130/148? tooth flywheels, both B/RB and Hemi flywheels starter combos. :thumbsup: and it's S.F.I. approved/sanctioned
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Postby dave-r » 30 Oct 2007 9:22

Ah! I see! That is bloody handy. :s017:
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Re: New 426 short block

Postby christer » 30 Oct 2007 9:59

JackT wrote:Sorry I haven't been logged in lately.


Double! :s008:

JackT wrote:My GTX developed coolant leaks next to repairs on the block,


Funny coincidence, but only a couple of weeks ago a friend told me that this quite often happens with welded blocks. The welded blocks can be good enough for a race car but isn´t exactly a dream situation in your driver (If I understood him right.).

Good luck with the engine build-up! :thumbsup:
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Postby JackT » 11 Nov 2007 0:37

I now have the crank, balancer, connecting rods, pistons, rings and cam in hand..... timing gears and chain yet to get but the machine work and balancing can begin!
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Postby Eddie » 11 Nov 2007 12:48

Any pics Jack? Good luck with it! :thumbsup: Did you ever get your bell repaired or replaced with a new one?
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Postby JackT » 11 Nov 2007 15:24

No pics yet.... the bell is waiting until I pull the engine and see which flywheel I have and what the tooth count and diameter is. I may just leave the scatter shield in the car. The NHRA regs are there for a reason.
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Postby Eddie » 11 Nov 2007 16:01

I see, I think I remember you mentioning the trip down the 1/4! :thumbsup:
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Postby JackT » 16 Nov 2007 0:23

OK, the block has gone for a visit to the machine shop for a very mild clean-up decking, a line-bore check and cylinder honing as needed. More to come including pictures as things move forward.
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Postby Eddie » 16 Nov 2007 14:38

Cant wait to see it Jack. Sounds like this new block is going to be super precise and blueprinted! :thumbsup:
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Postby JackT » 21 Nov 2007 3:00

Latest breaking news...... the block has been minimally decked to level and finish it and the bores trued and torque-honed. The line bore was checked and is fine - hallelujah, there was something on this brand new block that didn't need fixing! The crank (440 Source non-wedge) is now balanced (took 4 Mallory weights) as are the connecting rods (OEM stock), pistons (KB211's). Assembly will begin Friday - after all, what are holiday weekends for, anyway? I will be taking more photos as things move along. I'm sorry to inform you all that I shoot real 35mm film, so pics have to wait until rolls are shot and developed.
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Postby dave-r » 21 Nov 2007 11:15

Crickey! :shock:

35mm film. I remember using that years ago. :lol:

Actually. Truth be told. I remember using a box brownie when I was a kid. :oops: :roll:
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Postby Eddie » 21 Nov 2007 20:07

I remember the "brownies". They were cute, I never saw they're 'boxes' though :lol:
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Postby JackT » 27 Nov 2007 2:34

Update..... the crank, connecting rods, pistons and rings went in today. The roll of film is just about shot out, so pics will be posted soon.
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Postby Eddie » 28 Nov 2007 0:43

Cant wait to see it. Get back to work Jack, I hate these re-runs! Except SouthPark. I never miss an episode! Cartman rules!! :biggrin:
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Postby JackT » 28 Nov 2007 16:55

Eddie, I'll be happy to go back to work when production starts up again. The good news is that the writers and producers have resumed negotiations. Meanwhile, I'll enjoy my winter vacation, work on cars and grilles and relax!
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Postby Eddie » 28 Nov 2007 19:18

Sorry Jack, didnt mean to interrupt your well deserved vacation. It's a shame that the Big Shots there cant see to it to give you guys the money you surely deserve. I bet thats a 'cut throat' business! keep us informed of the engine, I cant wait to see that Hemi!!!! :mrgreen:
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Postby JackT » 04 Dec 2007 6:26

OK, here are pics of the short block before I started working on it today. The timing chain cover, oil pickup, windage tray, oil pan, oil pump and motor mount studs all went on today.... pics of that to come.

Hemi Short Block 7.1.JPG
Hemi Short Block 6.1.JPG
Hemi Short Block 5.1.JPG
Hemi Short Block 4.1.JPG
Hemi Short Block 3.1.JPG
Hemi Short Block 2.1.JPG
Hemi Short Block 1.1.JPG
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Postby Eddie » 04 Dec 2007 20:01

Sweet! I like that billet real seal retainer. No leaks! Did you use the low dome pistons because of Cali. gas? 9:5 to 1 ? Looks great Jack. :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Postby JackT » 05 Dec 2007 3:44

Eddie, thse are KB 211 pistons, made to be OEM replacements. I should wind up at 10.25 to 1..... OK with a hemi head on pump gas. The cam is an Engle with .570 lift. I don't have power brakes, so that will be OK too. I have to fire up my old laptop to run Desktop Dyno on the spec and see what numbers come up.
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Postby Eddie » 05 Dec 2007 10:09

Nice! Cool that you are running spec Comp. ratio, no Torque loss there. Bet it breaks 500 easy with that cam. Thanks for posting. I love Hemi buildups! :thumbsup:
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Postby JackT » 09 Jan 2008 8:40

More pics of the block before we started, during the short block assembly and beyond. The heads and rockers went on so I did an oiling test before putting on the intake manifold. If you look at the pic with the heads on, you can see the oil along the lower edge of the head...... the test was a success, so the distro gear went back in and the intake went on today.

Hemi Oil Test 1.1.JPG
Hemi Piston and Rod.JPG
KB 211 piston (match to OEM) and OEM connecting rods
Hemi Block & Crank 1.JPG
Finally the crank was in after grinding away some of the block to clear the oversize crank weights.
Hemi Block Deck Flaw 2.JPG
See why the block had to be decked? This was a "finished" block from MOPAR Performance but that step in the deck went right through the water passage and would have never sealed.
Hemi Block 2.JPG
Hemi Block 1.JPG
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