The Dodge Challenger Message Board

OK so this example is a 'Cuda but you get the idea.

This is what the other numbers should look like.

Here is the position of the numbers on the engine and transmission.

Making sense of the numbers

First digit
The first digit in the VIN is the car line. For a Challenger this is the letter "J".

Second digit
This is the price class. The 1970-71 Challenger R/T and 1972 Rallye have the letter "S" (for Special). All others (including the 1973-4 Rallye) have the letter "H" (for High).

Third and fourth digits
This tells us the body type.
23 = Two door hardtop
27 = Convertible
29 = Special Edition car (with the small rear window)

Fifth digit
This is the engine code:
B = 198 ci (1970-71 only)
C = 225 ci (1970-72 only)
G = 318 ci (All years)
H = 340 ci (1970-73 only)
J = 340 ci six pack (1970 only)
L = 360 ci (1974 only)
L = 383 ci (1970-71 only)
N = 383 ci High power (1970-71 only)
R = 426 ci Hemi (1970-71 only)
U = 440 ci (1970 only)
V = 440 ci six pack (1970-71 only)

Sixth digit
This is the last digit of the model year (Not necessarily the year of manufacture)
e.g. 0 = 1970, 1 = 1971, etc.

Seventh digit
This is the assembly plant code. Challengers were built at two plants in the U.S.
B = Dodge Main, Hamtramck, MI (all models)
E = Los Angeles, CA (no hemi cars or convertibles).

The last six digits
This is the plant sequential production number starting with the number 100001. It is NOT an indication of the number of Challengers built.

Note

When the last 8 digits of the VIN are stamped into the body the first two digits are reversed from the way they appear on the dash and the fender tag. (see photos at top)

Here is how a 1970 fender tag is stamped. This example is my own tag from my '70 Challenger. Tags are always read or written down from the bottom left corner first.



The codes I have underlined and marked are always in the same place on the tag. After all the main codes (up to the roof type and color code) the rest of the option codes are stamped into the tag in alphabetical order.

Any tag not stamped out like this could be a bad fake. But the guy stamping them was human so mistakes could happen.

The number of option codes a car has may be too many to fit on one tag. In this case the end of the first tag is usually stamped 'CTD' and the codes continue onto the second tag.

At the end of all the codes you will find one of the following;
END = End of codes (LA Plant)
EN1 = End of codes (Hamtramck production line one)
EN2 = End of codes (Hamtramck production line two)

Dave my door decal has been painted over is it possible to remove the paint without destorying the decal.

I am sure it is possible but I don't know how. I myself would be tempted to first remove the decal from the door with a solvent of some kind (alcohol?) but you will have to make sure that it will not remove any writing from it.

After that I am not sure how I would proceed. I think I would try different solvents with cotton buds in small areas to see what happens. I don't know what the chemical composition of the decal is so you will have to be very careful.

Anyone else have any ideas?

go here to get a repo decal.
www.performancecargraphics.com

+Thanks Dave that's some really good info. I double checked mine, I love doing it lol!! Makes me feel good lol!!

It is possible to use a razor blade to remove paint from a Mylar door VIN sticker, us a new blade, but dull the corners a little with sand paper to keep the corners of the blade from doing damage. Never push the blade, drag it backward over the surface at an angle. GO SLOW! Patience is a deffinate virtue in this particular instance, but done with care your sticker will survive undamaged and quite readable.

Best of luck,
Barry

David Robson (Admin) wrote:The number of option codes a car has may be too many to fit on one tag. In this case the end of the first tag is usually stamped 'CTD' and the codes continue onto the second tag.

CTD is short for ConTinueD, right?

Right.

Christer wrote:CTD is short for ConTinueD, right?

Close to a stupid question, I know...but life has taught me not to take anything for granted and that there are no stupid questions.

anyone know what code AGX3 is? I know it is for seats but what is the color?

You sure you copied that down right?

Double check the code and start a new thread with it in the "interior" section of the board and I will check my books tonight.

Could it be A6X9 stamped on there by any chance? That would be black vinyl seats.

Hello,

Can anyone tell me where to look for the car's date of manufacture? I know the door sticker should say, but mine's long gone. I've heard one say the the date was stamped on the valence panel behind the license plate, but I can't find that on my car. Would it be any other place on the car (aside from the build sheet)?

Thanks, Chris

The SPD ( Scheduled Production Date) would be on the fender tag, but it does not mean the car was actually built that day.

Barry

Barry,

It may not have been built that day, but should the fender tag match the date on the door decal. For example, my tag says 130 which I take to mean Jan '70 for a 70 model year . Should the decal read 1-1970?

Thanks,
Chris

Not always. I have seen several that are off a month from one to the other.

What is the VIN? I can look and see if I have any real close to it on file.

Barry

My tag says Sept 17th but the door sticker says October '69.

That is common. In your cars case it must have been built late.

4 years to reply Barry?

Different depts, politics etc. Dave, usual admin probs.

I have learned a lot more in four years.