Sound Deadener (on the Cheap) • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Brant** » 10 Jan 2005 16:51

Hey guyz - Curious if anyone has any suggestions for some sound deadner/ insulator for under my new carpet. I was told it's quite expensive to order the right stuff pre-cut. Does anyone know of a product that would work - on the cheap???

thanks

by **Brant** » 12 Jan 2005 15:26

Please - anyone?

by **BRADGROTT** » 13 Jan 2005 2:45

Have you checked with the local audio shop. they have many different thickness and can be cut to fit. I would like to coat the inner doors, quarters, headliner, firewall ect. seem a lot cheaper than the same stuff sold at the performance shop locally.

by **dave-r** » 13 Jan 2005 7:33

Here in the UK my friends have used this product from this company. With the Dollar being so weak I don't know if it is worth you ordering from this place or not? It works out as about $5 + shipping for a 91cm x 137cm sheet.

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8592

by **Brant** » 13 Jan 2005 14:55

Thanks a million guys for your help - this will be my weekend project. I'm on the search! Hey Bradgrott, is the stuff sold at audio places OK to use? It sounds like a great Idea! I'll post my results soon.

Cool!

by **BRADGROTT** » 14 Jan 2005 6:00

I used dyna mat in my first project back in high school, lined it under the interior and made one heck of a difference in interior noise from the outside. I dont know why a chally wouldnt benefit the same way. seems that ther are quite a few more choices than I thought.

Cant make it too quiet, got to be able to hear that MOPAR rumble :V8:

http://www.b-quiet.com/extreme.html

by **Brant** » 14 Jan 2005 16:26

So true - so true!
Oh, and Bradgrott, I like your car - those are some bad ass rims in the rear. :thumbsup:

by **BRADGROTT** » 14 Jan 2005 20:39

thanks just ordered the matching steering wheel from american racing.

by **Brant** » 22 Sep 2005 16:26

Figured this post is useless if I don't follow up.

Just to update on my decision. I went with a product called RAMMatt60 and Ensolite. I covered the entire floor (double) and inside doors before assembling the interior. I only used ensolite product at the front of the fire wall and on the doors (over the RAMMatt). This product is extremely easy to work with and can be applied in a clean way.

It has made a large difference with the rattles and road noise. Every Person who has had a ride in my car - comments on how smooth and less noisy my car is in comparison to any other Muscle car of the era. They say this without knowing what I have done. Purchasing Quality Sound deadner is well worth the money spent. I'm very happy and you will be too if that's what you want.

Cheers everyone.

by **dave-r** » 22 Sep 2005 19:38

That is good to know. Thanks.

Could you give us an idea of what it cost you total for this job?

by **transman** » 23 Sep 2005 1:04

Hey Brant.

Where did you buy the stuff. I'm going to do the same to my Challenger this winter. I was at a local HOT ROD parts store yesterday, and was looking at an adhesive backed rubber product. It cost about $45.00 cdn. for a 3' x 5' sheet. The fellow there said to use this and then put down the foil backed jute material he had at about $40.00 for the same size sheet.

Would be most interested to know the store name or type of store you bought it from

transman

by **1104** » 23 Sep 2005 15:54

i used a insulating product from lowes , home improvement center . its cheap ,silver, easy to work with, home depot should have it also . dont know how it will work , but went in good . brett tcb069@hotmail.com

by **1104** » 23 Sep 2005 15:57

the cost was $25.00 for 2 ft wide and about 16 to 20 ft long ?? had enough to do inside with lots left over to do trunk. brett

by **1104** » 23 Sep 2005 16:03

ok found product name reflectix 2 x 25 insulation $24.87 lowes.com
brett

by **Brant** » 27 Jan 2006 22:57

I'm so sorry for not replying as I hardly ever scroll down to the interior section on the messageboard.

I did extensive research on the whole sound deadening product thing. I initially was aiming for the cheap approach which I suppose would work for some. Many people on many custom hot rod and truck web sites are ‘kings of knowledge’ in this area and have continuous battles about the measurable results of using the Home depot, jute like products. Many used butle based roofing products to home heater insolation (metalic backed). There are as many products as there are unsatisfied desicions and/or unmeasurable results. Some very happy, some very sad.

I then researched and started talking with those in the automotive sound industry to see what was available for professional material. Some suck and some are absolutely awesome - with hands down superior benefits with measureable results.

Findings
• there are several Top Quality professional Sound Deadening products available - at all different prices.
• Price does not mean better.
• Butle based products are where its at.
• Thicker the butle, better sound deadening. Butle obsorbs the sound vibrations on metal, acting as a sound deadner. Once understanding the theory behind this, you'll understand my next point.
• Sticking is very important. Many products are great but they stick worth shit! If you have areas of metal that do not have the butle stuck to it, it will resonate - period. larger the area, larger the vibration (more noise).

Please understand, It wasn't till I understood all this, that I realized I want the best sticking product (sticks into all areas and forms to metal - won't release in heat), with a good thickness of butle. No point in buying product for half the money if you have to put twice as much square footage for equal deadening effect.

It's kind of like the used parts we purchase for our cars, if you want a 10% better product it costs you 20% more $$. That's the theory when it comes to sound deadening products.

The deadening material added 40 pounds to my car. I did all interior and trunk area. I'm light so I wasn't too concerned about weight. Benefits outweigh negatives any day.

Anyways. cost me about $260CAD and I'd do it agian in a second. Raamat60 and Ensolite is shown on the site. They guy there helped me big time with shipping and all that jazz. He's a car buff and he wrote me tons of info, prior to my purchase. His name is Rick. Note: this stuff performs like Dynamat or better, but costs WAY less. At least that was 1 year ago. I had a crowd of friends and family telling me I'm wasting my money - They now all agree it was the best decision I made. They want to do their muscle cars now!

www.raamaudio.com

Review Posted.
http://www.pollit.com/guestbook/entries ... wResponses

by **LITEMUP** » 27 Jan 2006 23:44

brant, only thing i have to say is that what you wrote is an amazing post and i appreciate it very much.

by **BRADGROTT** » 28 Jan 2006 7:17

OK I am sold.. are you getting a comission check for your effort.

so how many rolls of both products and how much adhesive did it take to do your interior... any pics of the finished product?

by **Brant** » 31 Jan 2006 16:22

Hey guys,

I do have pictures but they're printed – I'll scan them once I get a chance (I'm very busy this time fo year – Annual Report season!) I got two 25 sq/ft rolls and a bunch of the ensolite stuff. The ensolite stuff was dirt cheap, I think he kind of threw it in as I wasn't going to purchase it, and I think he understood I wanted the best but couldn't afford it. Anyways, There are other products like Dynomat, Brown bread, B-quiet and many others - I can't remember. Thing is, I've never read a bad thing about this product and all the info from past customers seemed to be consistant – unlike other products feedback.

I still have some left over for the trunk, as I want to put it down, then carpet inside like a new vehicle - so it's presentable!

When I'm in 4rth and cruisen at about 2200 rpm with WINDOWS UP- you can't hear a thing. Honestly! Actually I can't hear the engine or any road noise at all. OF course when I stomp on it it comes to life.

At idle with the WINDOWS DOWN, it's the same as before if not better. Same when driving with windows down. The exhaust notes are the same, but the undercarrage road noise is eliminated. This is an important point cause if you actualy think about it. if you eliminate the unwanted static noise (road noise, suspension, vibration etc) the exhaust actually sounds more crisp and clear. this is my answer to why people continually comment on how hard and crisp my car sounds when on throttle. That and the port/polish work in the intake and heads -oh, and the TA exhaust.

Idle and WINDOWS UP - yes you can hear the exhuast, but its three times louder when you open the door. thats what I like. Loud aggressive sound as your getting in the car and then softer inside. Want to hear it loud - roll the window down a crack. :thumbsup:

sorry for rambling but that's all I think about in the winter – all those unique moments and experiences of the summer past. Can't wait till Summer!

cheers

by **BRADGROTT** » 01 Feb 2006 20:26

by **LITEMUP** » 13 Feb 2006 19:46

question: i watched my buddy put some dynamat down a while back and after reading over the post again, i got to thinking.....he did not cover every square inch of the floor. does this matter? if i miss some spots does it loose the effect? because i remember he put something like, strips. say, a wide strip on either side of the trans tunnel, a large square on the floorboard, a rectangle piece in each of the back floorboards....that kinda thing. should i make sure that i get as much covered as humanly possible?

by **Brant** » 13 Feb 2006 21:05

I did, which doesn't mean it's right!

the thing is, a little in the right spot is better than none. one strip in one spot, may deaden vibration twice as much as two strips in another area. it's all about finding the center of high vibration areas. closer to the edge of a flat panel, the less vibration there will be as in the middle.

So, If your only gonna use a bit, put it where vibration is most appearant. tap areas with the end of a screwdriver and compare - then slapp some down. I found the tunnel (driveshaft) to be horrible and needed a couple layers. I put al lot around the back floor panels too, as my mufflers sit below and the rear tires create lots of vibrations from the wheel wells.

I got to scan those pictures - I'm just so busy lately. sorry I'll bring them to work tomorrow. Obviously I would never do this to a numbers hemi or 440 showcar - but then again, I couldn't afford one either. :blushes:

also, more isn't better. once the area is deadened - don't put any more down. when you tap it, it will have a thud rather than a ding to it. You'll know when you doing it - cause I didn't.

by **Brant** » 07 Apr 2006 19:57

Sorry for the delay. Here are some pics. Took a day to do – would take less to undo, if someone needed to.

cheers

by **dave-r** » 07 Apr 2006 20:53

It doesn't look as thick and heavy as I thought it would. Mmmm. You have me thinking now.

I banged around on the floor of my car and there are a coiple of areas each side that sounded very drum-like. Even if I just did those small areas i think there would be some improvement.

by **transman** » 20 Apr 2006 18:59

Hi Guys:
I just finished my '74 last Friday.
I used a product from Pro Form, part number PF366.
It comes in a box with two sheets in it, giving you about 12 square feet.
Each sheet measures 29x32. It is a rubber based product, with an adhesive back.
Easy to put down NO!!! Was it worth the effort "YES".
The proper way to put it in is to use a heat gun and a small roller (I got mine from a hardware store, and it is used to finish wall paper joints).
You heat the Pro Form product (starting on one side and working a small area at one time, cutting to fit the area you are working on). Use the roller to ensure that it is pressed down properly and you work your way into the various nooks and crannies.
I've only done from the firewall to the rear seat on both sides. On top of this, I've laid down a product that is felt, with a reflective backing to help eleminate heat, and of course further sound deaden the interior.
From start to finish, with the interior having to be pulled out, and then re installed took me 10 hours, with lunch and supper time included.
Both my wife and myself, are so impressed, that I'm now going to buy another box, and do behind and under the rear seat. This should do the job for me, but by neighbor around the corner from me (who gave me the tip on the product), said that you can carry this even further, by sticking on the inside of your doors, and interior 1/4's. We'll see about that after the rear seat is done.
Total cost will be less than $150.00 Canadian.
I did a fair amount of reasearch before I laid out the bucks. There is the stuff the pro-audio boys use - many many $$$$$$, other products, such as the products at Home Depot etc., in my opinion were not designed to do what I wanted to do, they were primairly for insulating heating ducts and water pipes in your house. The stuff I used, is in MHO the best for the buck, and if I ever get that "62 440 hardtop I'm looking at, it will get the same treatment. :thumbsup:

Hopes this helps you out.

transman

by **Brant** » 21 Apr 2006 14:38

Hey transam,

Cool! sound deadening rocks in these cars! I found a lot of the road noise (traveling) comes from the rear - thanks to the wheel whel area. It acts like an empty open drum which obviously resinenates.

later

by **regnellahC** » 22 Apr 2006 1:21

Transman,
You got a website or number of who sells the suff?
any pics?

by **transman** » 22 Apr 2006 6:01

Regnellahc.

Wish I had taken some before and after photos, but a brain fart prevented that from happening. My good lady reminded me afterwards that I should have taken photos.
I couldn't find a website for the product. I got it from my local auto parts store, and it was found in a body supply parts book. With the large number of auto parts stores in the U.S.of A. I don't think you'll have any problems getting it.
The product is by PRO FORM, and you can get it two ways, either in a box of 10, 12" x12" individual pieces, or a box of 2 sheets 29" x 32". Being on the frugal (cheap side) I opted for the 2 sheets, as it gives you more square feet. When I do the rest of the car, I'm going to use the 12 x12 pieces under the rear seat (with all the various odd shapes, it should be easier to install that cutting the large sheets), and behind the rear seat I'll use the larger pieces.
We had the '74 out tonight, and my wife commented there was a huge difference in the interior noise level.
I'm not going drag racing with this car, so the added weight is not a big deal for me. It's a cruiser, not a bruiser and even with gas getting damn close to 5 bucks a gallon, we're going to have fun this summer. Oh well, a cup of coffee is now 2-3 bucks at Starbucks, so who cares about the cost of fuel. :hmmm:

transman

by **regnellahC** » 23 Apr 2006 0:10

Thanks,
I'm going to look for it.
I've been wanting to do my doors for a long time.
Thanks for the tip.

by **Brant** » 24 Apr 2006 14:52

Here is a link. within the page is a link to the stuff I used. I went with the 60 stuff. There is also feedback form others - it's also within a link. This was how I found the goods!

good luck

www.cureline.net/lex/raamsale.htm

by **regnellahC** » 25 Apr 2006 1:19

Thanks Brant, I'll Check it out also :thumbsup: