The Dodge Challenger Message Board

I am restoring my 74 rally and the dash needs replacing and I was informed that you must remove the windshield first.

Correct.

Are you sure about that, Dave. I know B-bodies you do. I have a 72 in the drive now, I'll look in the morning. I'm almost sure you can get to the screws or bolts with the windshield in. I tear soo many cars down to a bare shell, I tend to forget what needs to be out of the way to remove something else.

I remember looking at the dash when I had the glass out and thinking it would be a hell of a job to try with the glass in.

You know. If it can be done with the glass in place I would be very interested because I need to remove my dash over the winter and it would be a shame to destroy that lovely glass seal I put in just two years ago.

However I thought I remembered seeing screws along the front edge of the dash pad next to the glass?

Maybe I am remembering wrong or thinking of another car?

dave-r wrote: However I thought I remembered seeing screws along the front edge of the dash pad next to the glass?

Are you thinking of the four screws that are placed in the two defroster outlets? It should be possible to remove them with a short screwdriver (with the windscreen in place).

That might have been it Christer.
The more I think about it the more I convince myself that there are no fasteners on the front edge at all. I wish I had my car at the moment so I can look!

I am sure that I have been told in the past that you had to remove the glass.

If this is not the case then I am a very happy bunny. I will be taking my dash out (along with the rest of the interior) this fall.

I know that my dash has been in and out at least 3 times in the last year, but the glass has not. I will check with the shop that does my work for me, and see if we can get some assistance.

Todd

I just finished putting mine in. All bolts were accesible via the bottom and sides, At least for the dash pads. Once that's off you have a little more clearance and can hit the rest with a box end.

Dash Advice Needed!

I've been working to get my dash pad out for several days. I have removed 11 nuts from dash pad studs and the screws from the ends (two on the driver side, one on the passenger side). My manual does not seem to show more than that. I cannot free the dash.

If all are accessible and the dash can be removed without pulling out the windshield, what have I not done?

This is a non-AC car so there are no AC ducts to remove. I have not tried to pull down the heater ducts (the bolts for those appear to be on top in the slots). There appear to be 4 bolts in each slot, 2 for the heater ducts and 2 for the metal dash assembly that the pad bolts to.

I have dropped the glove compartment, the ash tray, and the instrument panel, and I just don't see any more nuts to remove - the ones I did remove included 3 that were directly behind the instrument panel plus several more few inches back from that set, also along the glove compartment and ash tray.

I think I have the front of the dash loose but it seems attached at the back toward the windshield. Also the passenger side still seems tight; is there a second screw on the passenger side?

It would be helpful to know how many studs are on the pad - I have removed 11 out of how many?? The manual just isn't clear on this...

Also, once all nuts and screws are removed, how much physical force must be used to pull the pad free? I don't want to bend it.

Thanks to anyone who has done this!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The way I read the advice above was that the vent screws had to come out?

Dave,

Thanks, I will try that. I do not have one of those tiny ratchet sets but I may be able to get in there with a hand-held socket or a box end. I will let you know what happens.

Once I get this thing off, I will photograph the underside and post it, plus notes.

Duane

That will be cool. I am a bit worried about doing this job myself.

Thanks all for the advice, but we got the dash out without removing the glass. It was a little tight but very attainable.

Thanks all for the advice, but we got the dash out without removing the glass. It was a little tight but very attainable.

Success!

The machine screws in the vents did the trick. I will post a detailed description with the pictures after I take them and get them developed.

However, just a quick summary -

I was just removing the dash pad. The metal framework it is attached to can also be removed, but I did not try. However, when you loosen the machine screws in the vents, the metal framework drops slightly. This frees up the pad. I was able to remove it easily after taking out those screws. You can put them right back in and tighten the framework to the cowl again so you can operate the car.

There are two sets of screws in each vent - you can only get a socket on one set. They are at the ends of the two vents (total of 4 screws). The other set holds the vent ducts in place. The vent duct screws are obscured by metalwork just visible inside the vents. The 4 screws that loosen the dash framework are 3/8. I used a 3/8 socket, and a combination of 3/8 drive extensions with ratchet to get them out.

There are 11 studs on the dash pad itself, underneath. There are 2 machine screws on the driver side (one of which is obscured by trim until you drop the trim), and 1 machine screw on the passenger side.

The manual procedure for removing the pad is accurate except it does not mention the need to remove or loosen the vent screws.

I did remove the light bar along the edge of the dash pad above the steering wheel, and I removed the black plastic bezel and switch panel. I removed the 4 screws from the instrument panel and lowered it onto the steering column. I also loosened the nuts holding the column to the dash framework so I could more easily remove the bezel (be patient with that task, you have to jiggle and move it around quite a bit to free it).

I removed the ash tray and glove box to get at some of the 11 pad nuts. To get others, you really have to get on your back and reach up with the help of a light. I need to get one of those very small ratchets to make reassembly easier. I used a small box end wrench to remove most of the nuts. In a few cases I was able to use a 1/4 drive socket.

I hope this summary is helpful - pix to follow.

It is amazing what the sun and heat has done to the pad foam - it crumbles when touched and whole chunks of it can easily be pulled off by hand.

Duane

Here is a short instruction from the Service Highlights book. I am not saying that this is the best way to do the job but it can be worth a try....