The Dodge Challenger Message Board

CHECK IT

Could be just seized, pull the springs and lube with some anti seize spray and let it soak, then work it a bit. Should be nice and easy to move with no binding, when you fit the stuff back on use copper anti seize compound on the self adjusters and the raised stamped humps in the backplate whee the shoe rubs against it.

Adrian Worman wrote:You'll get them from a parts supplier here Wayne, pretty standard stock, try e-bay or USAutomotive save you time and cash
Check this page from Jims, shows good pix of the assembly and says that 70-72 B and E body cylinders are the same, rebuild kits are cheaper too
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/brake.htm

Some nice pieces of kit there Adrian, should I just buy the cylinders and new shoes or the whole kit?

Oh and do you get the bleeder screws with the cylinders or are they extra. Cause anything with a nipple costs extra.

Oh guys forgot to ask, what method is used to secure the new pads on the shoes?

RedRaven wrote:Oh guys forgot to ask, what method is used to secure the new pads on the shoes?

The new shoes come with the material already bonded on Wayne.

RedRaven wrote: Oh and do you get the bleeder screws with the cylinders or are they extra.

The cylinders come complete ready to fit with the bleeder screws.

dave-r wrote:

RedRaven wrote:Oh guys forgot to ask, what method is used to secure the new pads on the shoes?

The new shoes come with the material already bonded on Wayne.

Thanks Dave

So its just a case of swapping over the old springs from the old to the new yes?

Yes. Simples.

As aready stated though, get some copper or ally loaded grease (anti-seize grease) and put a little on any metal parts that contact each other so everything that should move does so without resistance.

Im sure I have a tub of copper grease I could use. Simples.

So guys what do you suggest -

1. Just get the new shoes and cylinders?
2. Get the new hardware kit inc. new shoe, cylinders, springs etc.

http://www.jimsautoparts.com/brake.htm


If the cost comes close enough to a front disc conversion then should I just bite the bullet and fork out or what?

Personally I would fit new shoes and cylinders. They are not that expensive and you could probably find them in the UK. Then clean up all the hardware, blow all the crap out of the brake lines, replace any lines that could fail the MOT due to rust, and flush the system well with plenty of new fluid.

You might want to check the master cylinder as well. If the brake fluid has been allowed to get that bad chances are the master cylinder will have water and rust in it too. Worth checking at least.

If that adjuster cable has stretched or something so it is not pulling the lever up, try finding a new one or try just putting a knot in it down near the spring. Or just do without it.

Without it you will need to check the adjustment manually every year or so. Depending on how much you use the car.

Keep it simple - keep it cheap.

dave-r wrote:If that adjuster cable has stretched or something so it is not pulling the lever up, try finding a new one or try just putting a knot in it down near the spring. Or just do without it.

Without it you will need to check the adjustment manually every year or so. Depending on how much you use the car.

Keep it simple - keep it cheap.

yes just see if you can get the adjuster spring/cable to work other wise it will be ok as little as you drive the car, and most definitely bleed the crap out of that master cylinder and ALL the lines front and rear,bleed it till its clear!

over here we call it the KISS ,"keep it simple stupid",and most of the time that will work

Ok guys then cylinders and shoes for the front it is.

I havent whipped off the rear drums yet, I guess I need a pullers for that. I wonder do halfords or the like sell pullers.

Should I hold off on the order until I get a look at the rear cylinders and shoes first?

Shoul'nt need a puller Wayne, ought to pull of by hand unless the drum is so badly worn that the shoes are hanging on to its wear ridge. Order it all in one go mate, my mate reckons he can get the shoes, both diameters, and cylinders from stock in England, easy and no import costs except post to the green Isle

If the rear drums are struggling to come off just give them a tap with a hammer one side then the other as you pull. They are not fixed or bolted to the axle like the front ones are.

Now remember these are made of cast steel so don't go swinging a sledge hammer at them or anything. Just a thump either side as you pull and they will inch off.

You might find a clip on one wheel stud so remove that first. They are usually missing anyway.

And make sure the hand/emergancy brake is off. That always helps.

Ok so I found a pic of my rear brakes set up and this seems to be in the way to whipping off the cylinders on the rear so a pullers is needed.

dave-r wrote:And make sure the hand/emergancy brake is off. That always helps.

Check.

NO!

There is nothing in the way Wayne. Trust us. Some of us have done this job not only on these cars but many many different cars over the years. You do NOT need to pull the axle out!

Just remove the shoes and unbolt the cylinder. It will more of less fall out.

Ok Dave will do, I will just have to work around it then. I wont touch the rest if theres no need. cheers mate.

Yea you need to think of it a maintenance way , the factory wanted to be able to do the brakes a simple as possible,so the less work the better so yea as Dave says you can work around it,

and you will see ,when you look at it there is no need to pull anything but the brakes

Regarding the parts, virtually any parts store in the US has the "wheel cylinder" for a Mopar. I appreciate you are not in the US, but don't pay a lot for those things. Someone should be able to sell and ship those to you reasonably. Those cylinders were put on virtually evrey Chrysler product made from '50s to probably up to the 80s or later I bet. My brother works in the auto parts business and he knows all this inside out, but I know the wheel cylinders are at any US NAPA or CarQuest store.

One of the advantages of making a '70 out of a '73 like I did is that the front has factory Mopar disc brakes already but I do have drum rear brakes.

Yeah that stuff seems to be a dime a dozen they made so many lol.....thanks for that rp.

The drum is measured form the inside diameter from one side to the other through the centre?

Correct.

RedRaven wrote:The drum is measured form the inside diameter from one side to the other through the centre?

As I stated above in my prior post Wayne, the drum should be checked just as you described, then compared to the number cast into the side of the drum. If the number is very close to the number cast into the side you might have to replace the drum because there wont be enough material to cut away in order to 'true' the inside diameter to the new brake shoe. If the number is considerably less than the cast number you might be able to get the old drums turned at any major parts store or a brake shop/machine shop that has a brake drum lathe. If this isnt done the new brake shoes wil quickly burnish and wear out in short order and braking performance will be less than stellar. Hope this helps

Eddie I think that is going too far for Wayne. He will not have anything to measure it that well.

I am sure his drums will be fine with a little clean-up with emery cloth. He just needs new shoes and cylinders. Then he can get back on the road and have enough money left over to fill the tank with fuel.

Non of this stuff is cheap over here. You have to remember that. It just cost me $170 to fill the Jeep with fuel at the supermarket.

dave-r wrote: He just needs new shoes and cylinders. Then he can get back on the road and have enough money left over to fill the tank with fuel.

You really dont know how close to the truth you are mate....its uncanny......

Cool, then I would do as Dave suggests.