The Dodge Challenger Message Board

When removing the steering column from my '70 challenger, I had my neighbor "mechanic" help me. I went inside and unbolted the bracket to the fire wall. He worked on the steering box and had me hold the column while he hammered on the coupling to the steering box to get it to release from the splines. I re-worked on the steering column after it was out, cleaning it up, repainting it, and checking the wiring and then went to re-install it. It comes up about 3/4" short of reaching the steering box with the coupler.
I was told that this is a 2 piece unit and is designed to collapse in a collision and I may have partially collapsed it. Has anyone else here had this problem or heard of it? Is it possible to "uncollapse" the column to get it to extend and fit? I'm having a bit of a hard time with this one. Your help, as always, is greatly appreciated.
Paul

are you sure you have everything loose fit so you can adjust?

if that column has been collapsed in some way im not sure it will work.

since it fit the first time,it should fit again,perhaps your coupling is in a bind, check that first,

i guess it depends on how hard you tapped on the coupler , i dont think you collapsed it

,dont give up , check all your mounting points , and make them loose enough to move the column around,check that coupler and post it here , and some pix if possible

The column is made of 2 parts, one tubular (upper - stops), and the lower shaft inside.
They can slide inside one another on a fair distance.
Originally, there is a small nylon pin inserted through the tubular column to prevent the lower shaft from moving back up too much. This snaps in case of an accident, allowing the shaft to slide into the tube.

Apart from that, the nylon pin serves no purpose, and you can simply slide the shaft out as low as it will go (you may have to yank it pretty hard as metal/metal friction and rust will not help you).

That's what I did on mine, although I did remove the rust on the shaft, used WD40, and made the shaft slide up and down in the tube until it was easy (at first, light taps with a hammer were necessary), before I reassembled everything.

I always thought that there was enough travel on the inner and outer to match the mounting bracket slots just under the dash. When I fitted a new ignition switch a little while back, I could'nt be sure if the column ended up in the same place as before, but I don't think it matters much, there must be a couple of inches of movement available. Unless I got it very wrong!

Thanks for the help guys. I backed out the column a bit, took off the coupler to the steering box, took a crescent wrench and placed it over the shaft and against the large pin that holds the shoes and place and gave it a few wacks and it moved about 3/4 of an inch. Just enough to make it reach. I was able to insert the roll pin, (not using the "correct tool" from the shop manual), gave it a few taps with the hammer and it was in. The shoes needed a little persuasion to get inside the housing and I was able to insert the tiny shear pin also.
Geez, according to the shop manual, you need a "special tool" for just about everything on this car. I think they must have had a residual kickback from the "special tool" manufacturer!
It seems a wrench or hammer works for a lot of these "special" areas.

Geez, according to the shop manual, you need a "special tool" for just about everything on this car. I think they must have had a residual kickback from the "special tool" manufacturer!
It seems a wrench or hammer works for a lot of these "special" areas.

LOL, most shop manuals I have used are like this from old stationary engines to late model jap stuff. In most cases you you can normally make do with general hand tools or by modifing an el cheapo spanner, etc in some way. My tool box is full of specially bent and pre ground tools for all those special jobs

The steering spline has a key along with setting the coupler properly. Endless possibilities when alignment time comes.