My 73 Rallye's 37 year old springs are getting a bit tired and even a little weight in the car (eg a full tank of fuel or a fat person in the back) causes the arse-end to really sink. It also easily scrapes when driving over undulations or rough patches. So instead of paying $400+ to get a new leaf and the springs reset, this is what i did -total cost of about $30 and lots of my time. The guys at Firm Feel said it was a good plan.
Its all in the following pictures.
The standard leaf pack on a Chal is 4 1/2 leaves. I've been told they are generally undersprung - Chrysler opted for ride comfort rather than firmness -i'm sure they also didn't expect their cars to be driving after 37 years...
So i have added a second mainspring to the RHS to make 5 1/2 leaves and as per 6pack/Hemi 440HD, i have replaced the half leaf with a full leaf on the LHS to make 6 leaves.
This is my last post, so i have hopefully made it a reasonably interesting and helpful one for those Chal owners on a tight budget, like me !
Regards
Steve
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Budget Beefup
by Goldenblack440 » 04 Jan 2010 18:26
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- Step one, I swapped some old A body springs for a starter relay! These will be pulled apart for the 71 later on. The actual spring i used for my 73 was from a 69 Dart
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- The four and a half leaves. The half leaf at the bottom is almost invisible when installed -its only about 7" long
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- The half leaf (painted ready to refit) and the full leaf not yet cleaned up, to be used for the driver side pack.
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- Step 2 -after isolating the main spring, is to cut the eyelets off each end to make the leaf as long as possible
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- And you end up with a long and thick spring -this will now be used as the second spring under the Chal's main spring.
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- Due to its longer length, much more of the Chal's main spring is now supported. You will have to redrill the centre bolt hole to suit the new position. Mine was approx 2" back.
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- Step 3 Speaking of centre bolts - you will most prob wreck the old centre bolt in removal. And it will be too short anyway. I bought a new Allen head bolt and welded in the hat of the old bolt -result is a perfect new centre bolt
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- Step 4 After supporting the body on jack stands and jacking UNDER the shock plate, leaves removed, here is the main spring left in position and shock plate swivelled out of the way
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- It took me 4 hours per side to undo 4 U bolt nuts! i only broke one U bolt - a new one cost $12
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- Here's the RHS set ready to go back in. Extra main spring is arrowed. I was able to reuse all the plastic spacers, and used some new ones between the 1st and 2nd spring
Last edited by Goldenblack440 on 04 Jan 2010 18:50, edited 1 time in total.
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Goldenblack440 - Frequent Poster
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by Goldenblack440 » 04 Jan 2010 18:37
Step5 -it took many clamps and 2 jacks to get everything lined up. I also had to go and get some bigger straps as the old ones were fatigued after bending and just not plain long enough to go around the extra pack thickness
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- clamping. G clamps and Vice Grips are required. The service manual said not to use grease on the plastic spacers. But i did. They are there to reduce corrosion and rub wear, moly grease can only help. The zinc leaves are also to reduce corrosion and he
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- step 6 - i decided to reuse the old zinc interleaves, although they were a bit grotty -they were still all sound. I used some sheet lead (far right) as the one between the extra leaf and the old main spring. It will last a few years -maybe not another 37
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- Lead sheet can be seen before tightening
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Goldenblack440 - Frequent Poster
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by drewcrane » 04 Jan 2010 19:17
interesting idea cutting the longer spring, i did the same thing only i used a short spring, it seemed to help but ,since then i have installed a new set of springs and have been pretty happy with the results,i know what you are doing is on a budget so i am anxious to see your results,looks like it will work well, let us know how it handles, im sure you will be out soon as its is SUMMER over there 
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drewcrane - Frequent Poster
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