Caliper upgrade • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **Goldenblack440** » 01 Dec 2009 5:21

Does anyone know if there are aftermarket calipers (i'm thinking 2 or 4 piston) available as a direct bolt on to these E body rotors? I know there are complete rotor/caliper upgrades, but my rotors are perfect. For the work involved in rebuilding the old calipers, maybe the money would be better spent towards some new ones with better stopping power. Thanks, steve

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2009 8:30

Disc diameter and pad size/material choice are what make brakes better or worse. But mainly the disc diameter more than anything as that gives the brakes more leverage.

In other words I wouldn't expect a great deal of improvement from a caliper change on its own.

by **Goldenblack440** » 01 Dec 2009 10:50

OK ! Didn't know that :oops:

It does make sense. I've spent enough on this car already so I'll just sandblast and rekit the old ones then and use some new pads i got from Firm Feel ($80 a set!)

thanks.

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2009 12:25

If the firm feel pads are designed for racing they might need to "warm up" before getting fully effective. Just keep that in mind. :wink:

by **Jon** » 01 Dec 2009 14:39

The shop in town recommended ceramic pads, what do you guys think of them? I just finished a brake job with rebuilt calipers and these bendix pad. Rotors were 40 year old virgins and only needed .010 cut from each.

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2009 15:07

Jon wrote:The shop in town recommended ceramic pads, what do you guys think of them?

What I want to know is what you think of them Jon. :wink:

Give us a good road test report. :s017:

by **Jon** » 01 Dec 2009 16:34

I would be glad too once the soft petal situation is worked out. :nod:

The guy at the shop said tighten up the rear brakes and it helped. Possibly still air in the lines somewhere.

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2009 16:35

Or a slight leak somewhere like I had that slowly sucks air in after every press of the pedal.

by **Jon** » 01 Dec 2009 16:55

dave-r wrote:Or a slight leak somewhere like I had that slowly sucks air in after every press of the pedal.

Did you lose fluild also?

As for bleeding the lines, We did the pump petal along with letting each cylinder slowly drain (about 3 ounces) while topping the MC.

Steve, sorry if I'm hyjacking your thread.

by **Eddie** » 01 Dec 2009 16:57

The Ceramic pads dont offer increased brake performance over semi-Mets they are solely for lower noise and less brake dust. The main reason why the manufacturers have gotten away from Semi-Metallic pads is the noise and dust. This is the reason why pads on these newer cars and trucks only last for 20k-30k,(average). Rotor size and piston diameter are the main reasons for increased friction.(Better brakes) Fancy aftermarket racing brakes are NOT better than cast iron calipers and rotors. They are 'favored' by racers due to their lighter weight. Not better perf. Steve: did you use a rotor machine that on the car? They are better than the old rotor lathes. They take wheel bearing and rotor runout into account. A brake lathe has no way of 'knowing' this and is cut wrong sometimes. Next time ask for an on the car rotor machine :wink:

by **burdar** » 01 Dec 2009 17:01

I put ceramic pads on my 00 Durango in July of 2008. They have been working fine for me. The main reason I put ceramics on was due to the origonal pads dusting my 20" wheels really bad. It wouldn't take very much driving and the front wheels would be black. The ceramics don't dust at all.

You aren't supposed to tow with them but I doubt that will be an issue with most of the Challengers out there.

by **Jon** » 01 Dec 2009 17:11

I understand the ceramics are better on rotor wear then semi metalics also. At $250 a piece I'd rather replace the pads more often was my thinking.

by **Eddie** » 01 Dec 2009 17:12

Steve: I would just make sure the caliper lines are in good shape,,not fraying,or swollen. The pistons are not pitted and the seal is in good shape Dick Ross's pads and you should be fine. I would look into the 73 spindles,,Cop Car One piece 11.75 rotors,,Single piston slider type caliper and this would be a nice factory HD setup with easy to get parts that wont cost a fortune. :lol:

At least this is the setup I would like to do to mine someday--Dave knows way more aboot this setup,,I asked him on the trip :lol:

Oh and tighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench--not an impact set on kill. This will warp the rotors quickly and start to cause pulsation, glaze the pads, all kinds of bad things

by **Eddie** » 01 Dec 2009 17:14

I was concerned about assending a garbage scow or richbitch in her BMW while trying to keep up with Drew in downtown denver!. :lol:

Those parts would be even 'harder' to replace than brake pads :lol:

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2009 19:23

Jon wrote: Did you lose fluild also?

As for bleeding the lines, We did the pump petal along with letting each cylinder slowly drain (about 3 ounces) while topping the MC.

Steve, sorry if I'm hyjacking your thread.

Yes. If I applied the brake hard i was getting just a drop or two of fluid escaping. Then the same volume of air was geting sucked back in. So the fluid level never went down but the pedal just got softer over time.

If the master cylinder has been dry of fluid or had air in it then I always remove the cylinder from the car and re-bench bleed it. It is the only way to get all the air out of the master cylinder.

by **dave-r** » 01 Dec 2009 19:25

airfuelEddie wrote:I would look into the 73 spindles,,Cop Car One piece 11.75 rotors,,Single piston slider type caliper and this would be a nice factory HD setup with easy to get parts that wont cost a fortune. At least this is the setup I would like to do to mine someday--Dave knows way more aboot this setup

The parts are not very easy to find outside of the USA Eddie.

by **Goldenblack440** » 01 Dec 2009 20:17

Thanks for all the interesting info guys. I have renewed faith in the stock setup now. Ed, that gear sounds like great stuff, but Dave's right, the only chance i would have of getting it is either on Ebay or if i knew someone over there. But both ways, the postage costs would be the killer due to the weight. As for machining the rotors -not up to that stage yet! My 71 is an unboosted drum car, i am putting on a complete front end from a 383 '70 Cuda power disc car. Plus Firm Feels excellent huge torsion bars and their big front sway bar as well. If you saw the piston/calipers, you would agree they need sandblasting. I hope the semi-metallic pads work out well and don't need too much warming up like Dave said -Dick Ross said they were fine for the street, although pedal feel.pressure may be a touch higher.

BTW, its interesting that you mention the cop rotors at 11.75". Here in Oz, the main company selling brake upgrade kits "boasts" 300mm rotors for our Valiants. Well that's 30cm which is only 1/4" bigger than the cop rotors! Nothing special really. And Chrylser in the late 60's also brought out the Kelsey Hayes 4 piston calipers on some A bodies.

Maybe things havn't changed that much really.