The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Well I have replaced all brake components, I think I have pproperly bled the master cylinder, but I can't seem to get fluid through the safety switch to the rear wheels, also, I do not think I am getting fluid through the hold-off valve either. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help!

TAGibb wrote:Well I have replaced all brake components, I think I have pproperly bled the master cylinder, but I can't seem to get fluid through the safety switch to the rear wheels, also, I do not think I am getting fluid through the hold-off valve either. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help!

Keep pumping it through. At first don't succeed..... Remember the basic's. Furthest from the master then, work your way forward. Replaced all brake component's in the Challenger last year, including brakeline's. Don't want to mention the rest of the rig's, I did this year. Except for the old Ford F100. I Did everything. I mean everything! Didn't bench blead master, on that either. Nomatter what some say, you have to have a partner to do this right. I'm not a brake guy and, don't have that kind of equipment. But, my car's do a straight nosedive. Good brake, no pull. Check the safety switch and valve's. Might be some gunk there.

Too many unkowns here.

Did you BENCH bleed the master cylinder? You can't do this on the car.

Is the master cylinder new or in good condition?

Are you sure you don't have any loose connections in the pipes that will suck air in or any leaks?

Have you craked open each joint while someone holds the pedal down to see if you have pressure at any point along the line from the master cylinder to the rear brake?

Thanks guys,

I have found at least one problem, that is the hold-off valve (a new one) is defective, I have now replaced it, but I am not getting fluid to pass the safety switch to the rear wheels, is it possibel this is defective also (also new)? Maybe the defective hold off valve damaged the saffety switch? I know fluid will not go through to the rear wheels, so maybe it is stuck, but the brake light is not on, so who knows what might be going on.

Are you sure the lines are hooked up in the right direction? The safety switch is a one way thing I think. I was just looking at a post on this the other day where Dave talked about taking his apart and cleaning it and so on....

That was my line lock that was defective. And that turned out to be my fault because I must have dropped a spring.

The brake switch thing is just a simple piston that can push one way or the other. Take it apart and have a look. It might be jammed.

1 method ive found extremely effective is a trick ive learnt from having to bleed the clutches on mitsubishi trucks at work & it is pressure bleeding you use a garden sprayer with the wand cut off & put brake fuid in the sprayer pump up the pressure & clamp it on the bleed nipple then crack the bleed nipple & turn on the tap on the sprayer until it starts pushing fluid into the resevoir & just repeat the process & brakes should be fine
cheers ian

Hey thats a good one Ian, and i just threw out a sprayer cos it was hanging around! There is another method called the gravity method, which lets it seep through a cracked nipple over a period of hours, but i can't exactly remember the details.

Goldenblack440 wrote:Hey thats a good one Ian, and i just threw out a sprayer cos it was hanging around! There is another method called the gravity method, which lets it seep through a cracked nipple over a period of hours, but i can't exactly remember the details.

I was talking to our shop mechanic about, that very thing. I got mine close with the F100, with that method. Only because, there was nobody else around, when it came down to bleeding the system. Used a partner later. Had my brake response, the way I wanted. My Challenger has power disc brake's. Stops better than the wifes Mazda 3, with the big disc's. Or so, I think. Had my nephew help me with that. Nothing beats, a good partner.
Dylan and Dave have some pretty good point's, as well.

Yes it is certainly better with two people, but i have got good results by myself with just a tube dangling into old brake fluid. A lot slower of course.

I know what you mean by the Mopar power disk brakes feeling better than the modern cars. I had exactly the same feeling with my assissted disk front Charger compared to the GM made Commodore. Much more powerful and nicer feel.

My brakes are a bit mushy at the moment and the car pulls to the side when I need brake harder than normal, I have a long drive to the Nats coming up so I need to sort them out this weekend. The whole brake issue gives me the heebie geebies- I might call the "Mo" to give me a dig out- top geezer is "Mo"!!

I think you have drum brakes all round on yours Wayne. If so they might just need adjusting up even or you might need new wheel cylinders.

dave-r wrote:I think you have drum brakes all round on yours Wayne. If so they might just need adjusting up even or you might need new wheel cylinders.

You could be right Dave, as I said Im not to up on the brakes end of things but maybe they do need adjusting or a brake bleed. If it is not too difficult and easy done in a short space of time I might try it at the Nats.