The Dodge Challenger Message Board

I'm ready to press in my new lower control arm bushings and pivot shafts and want to make sure I have the process down pat before I start. Do I press the bushings in the control arms first and then press the pivot shafts in the bushings? Or, do I press the pivot shafts into the bushings and then the shaft and bushing into the control arm (I'd use a pipe to push on the flange of the bushing not on the pivot shaft).

Does it make a difference?

I used poly bushings and it did make a difference. I destroyed one by doing it the wrong way first.

But I am struggling to remember which way was right!

I think it has to be bush into the LCA first and then push the pivot in.

Although with the stock type bush (with metal sleeve) it probably makes no difference?

Actually you had better wait for someone else to answer....

dave-r wrote:Actually you had better wait for someone else to answer....

C´mon Dave, make a guess, please! Then we know what to exclude...

I used a length of all thread to first install the bushing into the control arm. Then a pipe to push the pin into that.

But I don't think it makes much difference. As long as the pin and the bushing are all the way in.

Good luck

That's the feedback I was hoping for. Thank you!

Is it normal to have some play between the metal sleeve and the lower control arm itself. I want to use poly bushings but they don't supply the metal sleeves and you must reuse the old ones from the rubber bushing. Thanks.

The metal sleeve should be a tight press fit. When you fit the poly bushings you just torch the old bushing, set fire to the rubber, and it falls out neatly leaving the outer sleeve behind.

If your outer sleeve is loose in the LCA then something is badly worn. Either the sleeve or the control arm itself.

I think you're right Dave. Anyway to find the dimensions in that area. Hopefully I don't need new LCA's.

I think your best bet would be to measure a couple of new stock type bushings. The LCA should be a couple of thou smaller for a tight press fit.

I called FFI and they said the play is between the torsion rod adjuster support and the two LCA plates and it is normal. I am thinking once it is bolted back up that will compress and remove the play.

Now trying to decide whether poly is the way to go. I saw another post where the guy didn't like the vibration transfer from urethane bushings. Anyone else have comments?

BTW the 38 year old rubber bushings didn't look to bad even after heating them up to remove them.

Vibration transfer? Bollocks.

The same guy probably would like the springs softer and the body isolated from the chassis with rubber doughnuts.

When releasing the tension on the torsion bar adjusters, I kept track of the turns so it could go back to the original height setting when refitted. The driver side took 20 turns out and the passenger only 11-1/2. Is it possible one spring is sagged out? Any other ideas?

BTW, the rears were re-ached a few years back.

You will find that adjusting each front torsion bar does funny things. You can adjust one and not much happens. But then you check out the rear wheels and you find the ride height at the rear has changed a bit.

Start from scratch when you put the adjusters back in. Make sure the threads are in good shape and well greased so it is safe to adjust them with the car sitting on its wheels.
Adjust each side the same number of turns in until you are at about the correct height. Keep bouncing the car on the springs as you go to get the shocks to settle.

Then adjust one at a time to get the ride height the same at each corner of the car. You will find that as you add to the front right bar the rear left of the car may drop. Or the right rear rise slightly!

So keep checking as you go. Make sure you are on level ground and keep measuring each of the 4 wheel arches from the ground. Try to get the front level and the rear as close to level as you can (you may not succeed in getting it completely level).
You can also adjust for weight in the drivers seat if you want.

Hey, I only weigh 170 pounds. (plus the battery on that side maybe another 40)

The bars are original 0.92 R/T springs under a 340. They have quite a few miles on them though. You recommended the 1" diameter so I may start fresh with that set up. I'll adjust it as you said and let you know how it sits.

Thanks!

With a 340 I might go for slightly smaller bars. It depends on the weight bias on the car and how smooth the roads are you have. But use a 1-1/8th front and a 3/4" rear sway bar for sure.

Jon wrote:Hey, I only weigh 170 pounds.

Damn. That is my ideal weight. The weight I was when I was fighting (I am 6' 1"). I had to put on muscle mass to get up to that weight because I was always a really skinny kid (140lbs). But when I was fit i was 170lbs with no body fat at all.

But now I struggle to get down under 185lbs. I carry the extra 15lbs on my belly.

Roads are pretty rough around here especially the dirt section getting home, so that is a definite consideration. I really like the ride with the original bars also.

I am also reconsidering replacing the torsion bars for yet another reason, I have an idea why the passenger side has less tension on the adjuster then the other side. I found the lower control arm is bent back, pretty sure it happened when I did a curb shot many years ago.

Anyways the strut is in tension since the arm is moved back so it may be adding additional support to that side. The grommet is cut and the bushing and K-frame opening are severely worn (driver side looks like new)

Hopefully the LCA can be straightened then I'll check the ride heights with the .92's and take it from there.

Hi there , I have made up a dvd that covers the removal and replacement of a mopar upper & lower control arm bush, here is a link to my ebay add, and btw this is a top site cheers.

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