Pics of my master cylinder • The Dodge Challenger Message Board

by **RedRaven** » 20 Jul 2008 22:07

I took off the cover today to check the levels in the pots. Here is what I found.

The rubber piece in the pot, what is its function, when I took it out the two sections were depressed into the pots and it appeared to have liquid in them looked different to the brake fluid, might have been water.

by **Eddie** » 21 Jul 2008 0:35

It's the cover gasket and it has 2 functions, seal the master cylinder and allow for fluid expansion. The water is what concerns me. I would have the fluid changed. (Flush&Fill.) Regular brake fluid absorbs water and thats why the rust is there. You should flush the brake fluid when water is present, about every 3 years or so,(no one ever does that though) they make small paper testers that 'measure' how much water is in there with a quick dip in the fluid and read the paper strip, most auto part stores have them. :thumbsup:

by **RedRaven** » 21 Jul 2008 7:39

Yeah gonna do a complete job on the brakes new pads and fluid!! :thumbsup:

by **dave-r** » 21 Jul 2008 7:51

Yes. The rubber seal is to isolate the fluid from the air so it does not absorb moisture.

When you have finished bleeding the brakes, pop those two depressed rubber things back up.

by **RedRaven** » 21 Jul 2008 7:59

dave-r wrote:Yes. The rubber seal is to isolate the fluid from the air so it does not absorb moisture.

When you have finished bleeding the brakes, pop those two depressed rubber things back up.

Pop em up out of the pots Dave?

by **dave-r** » 21 Jul 2008 8:10

by **RedRaven** » 21 Jul 2008 8:37

dave-r wrote:Yep.

by **RedRaven** » 21 Jul 2008 10:00

What part number or type of brake booster would I need for the cylinder and brake set up??

by **dave-r** » 21 Jul 2008 10:03

Don't. Power brakes are for wimps. :lol2:

by **RedRaven** » 21 Jul 2008 10:08

dave-r wrote:Don't. Power brakes are for wimps.

Sold!!

by **Eddie** » 21 Jul 2008 13:11

I would get new wheel cylinders Wayne when you go to get your parts., the old ones will leak and ruin your new brake shoes. They make re-build kits for them too, but I always avoided those in lieu of a new part. :thumbsup:

If there is a dark colored stain on the backing plates,(the rear of the brakes), they have been leaking. Also be careful Wayne, brake fluid eats paint and is an excellent paint remover. I also 'suspect' from the pics that your car has never had the brakes replaced?

by **RedRaven** » 21 Jul 2008 13:52

airfuelEddie wrote: I also 'suspect' from the pics that your car has never had the brakes replaced?

I expect you 100%

by **Eddie** » 21 Jul 2008 14:09

The drums have so much thickness to the metal Wayne. When you take your drums to the machinist he will measure the drums with a drum caliper. You may or may not have the required metal left to machine them round and true. Here in the states Federal Law prohibits the removal of metal below the minimum thickness. Replacement drums may cost a bit more than you expected. I hope for your sake the drums dont need replaced :thumbsup:

by **Moparman1972** » 29 Jul 2008 0:10

I got rear drums for my 72 and they cost $35 apiece. Front calipers were about $50 apiece. I dont know how expensive they may be over there, but it's definitely worth it, especially when you're dealing with what's stopping your car. By the time you get the drums ground and then cleaned and painted, you'll probably spend more than a good set of new ones.

Never get the rebuild kits for the wheel cylinders, either. Much safer and easier to deal with new hardware than rusty hunks that you hope you've assembled right. And its worth every penny when you go to replace them again in 5 or 10 years.