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Challenger Suspension Kit

PostPosted: 13 Apr 2008 21:46
by Trep01
Okay, I just purchased a new suspension kit for my '73 which should contain everything I need to rebuld the front end of my Challenger. I've never done this before so I wanted to reach out to all of you to see what safety precautions I should take when removing the torsion bars. I understand they are under considerable load and if not removed properly, can be quite deadly. I'm reading my service manual but still wanted to reach out to some of you who have done it before to see what insight you might have to offer. Thank you.....

PostPosted: 14 Apr 2008 0:07
by jh27n0b
If you jack up the car and allow the front suspension to "unload" then unscrew the adjuster bolts there should be no load on the torsion bars. There are special tools for removing the bars. There are snap rings holding the bars in. These rings are accesible from the back side of the rear torsion bars inside of the crossmember. A pair of needle nose pliers should do to remove the snap rings. The special tool is clamped onto the bars and then the bars are driven rearward out of the backside of the crossmember. Remember any scaring of the torsion bars will weaken them. There is a left and a right bar so make sure you place the new one on the correct side.

Bob

PostPosted: 14 Apr 2008 0:37
by jh27n0b
Of course I should always add the safety aspect of the job. Especially since you asked about safety. Always make sure the vehicle is well supported on good quality stands. Since you will be under the car hammering. Eye protection is also very important.

Bob

PostPosted: 14 Apr 2008 1:13
by Trep01
Bob, thanks for the feedback. I guess I should clarrify that I am looking only to rebuild the front end and not replace or remove the torsion bars if at all possible. As you have suggested (and as the service manual makes perfectly clear), if the vehicle is on stands and the suspension has unloaded there should be no load on the bars. I'll take my time and make sure I don't score or scar the bars in any way. Thank you for taking the time to respond. I really appreciate it. I can't say that I won't have additional questions once I get started, however......later.

PostPosted: 14 Apr 2008 9:03
by dave-r
You will have to remove the torsion bars to replace the bush on the frame end of the LCA strut and also the LCA pivot bush.

Loosen the pivot bolt before removing the torsion bar and it will come out easier. Put a couple of hose clips around the bars if you don't have the correct removel tool to hammer.

PostPosted: 14 Apr 2008 20:38
by Trep01
Now I'm getting stressed......thanks for the additional insight; I'll let you know how it goes.

PostPosted: 15 Apr 2008 7:47
by dave-r
Don't worry.
Once you have done one you will wonder why you got stressed at all.

It is not hard at all once you see how it goes. It is just that first time when you are doing it by yourself.

PostPosted: 07 May 2008 20:19
by Trep01
Dave...you out there Buddy? I priced the torsion bar tool and it's close to $400 so that won't work. You mentioned that the bars could be removed with a couple of hose clamps. If I wraped the bar with leather (to prevent damage) and then attach the two hose clamps I should be able to tap on the clamps to back out the bars.....is this correct in theory?

PostPosted: 07 May 2008 20:59
by dave-r
Yes. But make sure you take the clips out at the rear of the bars and loosen the pivot for the LCA. They should pop out back through the trans crossmember OK.

tools

PostPosted: 16 Jun 2008 23:10
by botari123
just suspension has tools for the job
take a look
i think one can make the bar removal tool easily
http://www.justsuspension.com/product/122