[Goldenblack440]

I learnt something the other day. The manual is useless sometimes, as it didn't mention this. I was trying to take out the torsion bars (73 Rallye 340). I did everything the manual said which isn't much. Except normally i have found i don't need the torsion bar removal tool. I removed the upper control arm bump stops to give full travel and loosened off the adjuster nuts fully. If you notice the torsion bar ends you will see that at the rear fixed end, one section of the rear hex points down to the ground as in a diamond while the same part of the hex at the front is flat. So as the rear is fixed, the idea is to get the front corresponding flat part parallel with the ground, and they will more or less slide out. However, mine would not go that extra few degrees to get it parallel. (it will be p[arallel when the adjuster tongue that anchors into the adjuster bolt is fully retracted, ie, you can't see it sticking out above the lower control arm).

I finally worked out that i had to loosen off the lower control arm pivot arm nut- the 15/16" nut. Then the bushing relaxed and everything lined up! If the lower control arm pivot nut has been tightened with preload, it will hold some of the tension in the arm, making it very difficult for the torsion bar to slide out without the tool.

[patrick]

Sound's like both of us are in search of a better book. That's what is so great about this web sight. If we can't find the information there, we can find it here.

[Goldenblack440]

Very true! Hands-on experience is sometimes better than theory anyday. My comments wouldn't apply to someone pulling the front end down completely...that is, removing the lower cont arms, as they might have these main pivot bolts undone anyway, but for people like me who were just replacing the bars with BB ones, plus, who didn't have a torsion bar removal tool, it helps to know these things. But i'm gonna make a tool anyway!