The Dodge Challenger Message Board

My problem is every time after the second or third stop my rear brakes stay locked up? I installed the baer rear disk conversion and have taken the rear calipers apart several times to make sure they are moving freely. Their techline was of little help so I am turning to the pro's (pat yurselfs on the back)..

originally my 70 rt had front disk with drum in the rear. Is there a residual valve on this model that is holding pressure to the rear after a couple of stops? I am using the supplied master cylinder with what i assume is the oem porportioning valve ( the big brass block to the left of the master cylinder), if not what is this piece?. I installed a Baer adjustable proportioning valve in line about under the driver but this seems to control how the quickly the rear enguage and adjusting it does nothing to the releasing of the rear brakes.

Also why does the oem lines coil several times off the master cylinder anyways.

This sounds like a problem with the brakes when they are hot. Send them back.

I always tell people not to bother with rear disc brakes. They are total overkill.

Why are the brake lines coiled up?
Someone told me this a little while ago because i didn't know either. But now i have forgotten again!

So is the big brass junction block the factory proportioning valve?

BRADGROTT wrote:So is the big brass junction block the factory proportioning valve?

The OEM brass block is a combination valve. It does several things (check them out there : http://www.mpbrakes.com/technical-suppo ... valves.cfm )

If you're installing disc brakes on all four corners, get rid of the OEM block. Mopar used the same block on all car lines anyway, so the front/rear bias was probably not optimal with OEM brakes, you can guess what i'll be with aftermarket brakes.

If you're only installing discs up front, and want to keep drums at the rear, the metering action should be retained. So keep the OEM block and your proportional valve, as you did, or replace the OEM block with a metering valve.

Thanks for the read, I thought that there might be a residual valve in the system to hold pressure for the rear drum brakes causing this. However it sounds like it was built into the master cylinder. I am first going to try and bypass the oem block and see if that makes the difference. Also it struck me to make sure the correct master cylinder got shipped with the BAER kit. The master came with the front disk kit, maybe they didnt realize i was getting the rear disk conversion also and may have the wrong master. I had to order it from a local speed shop as BAer doesnt sell directly.