The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Is there a good write up on installing the leaf spring? I have a pretty good idea, but would like to see some directions so I don't hurt myself pulling the old spring out. I'm also putting in new shocks, which should be easy.

Thanks for the help in advance,
Jeremy

It is so easy I can't even remember how I do it and I have done it many times!

I will try to think what the safest way would be.

You need 4 axle stands.

Remove the rear wheels.

Support the chassis on 2 axle stands (not too high) just forward from the axle so the axle hangs loose. Then support the axle with a trolley jack while you disconnect the bottom of each shock absorber.

Let the axle hang loose again as the shock absorbers may have been limiting the drop of the axle.

Now lift the axle an inch or so to just take the weight of the axle off the springs and place another two axle stands under the axle to support it.

Now undo and remove the U-bolts holding the spring to the axle. You may need new U-bolts as they often get damaged during removal.

Once the are off the axle should be free of the springs so there is no tension in the springs.

You can now remove the springs safely. I undo the rear shackles first and then the front mounts.

A small comment: Do NOT use any upwards force on the rear axle while untightening the u-bolts. I have tried it and it doesn´t make life easier for you. (The u-bolts will NOT come off easier that way). Maybe an unnecessary comment?

JDB840 wrote:Is there a good write up on installing the leaf spring? I have a pretty good idea, but would like to see some directions so I don't hurt myself pulling the old spring out. I'm also putting in new shocks, which should be easy.

Thanks for the help in advance,
Jeremy

The only thing I can remember is, with 2 friends, a lift and a transmission jack, it was so easy we spent more time chatting than working.

With the car up above our heads, and the trans jack holding the axle level, and air tools, it was really easy.
Unbolt the spring from the axle, nothing falls down, then unbolt from the rear, hold it while someone removes the front bolt (that is the only hard part if you're alone), and replace the spring.


The only real advice I can give if you don't have an air impact wrench is to use a wire brush on all bolts (especially the U-bolts, on all exposed threads), and then soak them up with WD40 the night before.

Thanks everyone!!

Thats kind of what I had in my mind, but I needed to see it first.

Better to be safe than sorry!

Well I finished the install. I wasn't all that bad, the worst part was it was raining all day and I had to do it outside. So the weather was bad, which tacked on a couple of hours. Everything went smooth until the end, I was torqueing down the rear shackle bolts and broke the bolt and sliced my hand open. So I didn't get a chance to test drive it.

Thanks guys for the help, it was a pretty simple procedure

So I guess I'm going to have to buy new shackles. All of the shackles I looked up for the chally seem to be offset. The ones currently on the car are not offset. Should I buy the same ones that are on the car, which I going to assume are like the B body shackles? And which set should I get, the leaf springs have the poly bushing in it, if that makes a difference.

You need the correct e-body shackles.

I will have a look at the spare set I have to see if there is any way you can easily repair yours. I am sure that would be possible.

Well you could repair it if you had any engineering and welding experience. Otherwise it looks like you need to source one of a parts car.

I forgot to say. The offset ones are for moving the springs in for tyre clearence. That is a whole lot of work involving not only offset rear hangers but also offset front A-body mounts (modified) and new spring perches welded further in on the axle.

http://www.mercerspring.com/

They may have them in stock or repair yours.

jdb840, do you have a dual exhaust cutout rear valance? If not, have you thought about aftermarket? Just suspension makes a super beefy kit for about 85-100 bucks for the pair and they are overengineered! They wont fit the dual cutout valance though. www.espo.com has O.E.M. E-Body shackles for 32.00 a pair with rubber bushings and 52.00 a pair for poly. bet that hurt when you sliced your hand!

I did even more damage to myself this weekend trying to replace the shackle bolt. I wasn't thinking I jacked up the rearend a little and started to unbolt the u bolts with an impact gun (I knowI should've lifted the car up as well). On the last bolt I was a far away from the cars a possible and the spring snapped and I felt a sharp pain in my thumb. Come to find out the spring unloaded and trapped my thumb between it and the trigger of the impact. Im really lucky to have my thumb at this point in time. All that is left is the back of thumb and the nail. So I'm not working on the car for a little while. It's bery difficult to type right now

Oh and I do have a cutout for the dual exhasust.

Yikes, man that had to smart! Guess you will have to use the O.E.M. style which is not a bad thing. Hope you heal soon.

Crikey!

Look after yourself mate! They don't do replacement thumbs at ESPO!

Thanks for the concerns guys, it is healing slowly. Everyone is making fun of me by doing this cause that's what it looks like.

Well I was able to just able to buy the bolt from summit. Here is some pics of the exhaust, shocks, and front sway bar. I order the front and rear bar from just suspension 1 1/8 and 7/8. I haven't installed the rear yet, due to my injured thumb.

I need to get some exhaust tips, which I haven't bought yet

Very nice finish on the plastic hood.

Oops! I mean

I really like that blue colour!

JDB840, Hot Challenger there.Your car is beautiful!! The color is my favorite. I also like that hood. How does your exhaust sound. Mine is very quite. I dont know if I'll ever change it but I would like to use either the magnaflo's or the Ultra Flo's, the x-pipe makes it sound funny, not a bad thing just different. I have the standard Dyno Max Super Turbos which are a bit more quite than the Dyno Max Ultra Flos. I have a matching truck if you ever need a tow!

The exhaust is quietier at idle, but louder and deeper during acceleration. I really like the way it sounds. Anything was better than what was on it before though, stock exhaust with old burnout cherry bombs. It was very loud before, and backfired which reminds me of all the old trucks around.

Yep that is the way mine sounds too. It does have a unique sound when getting it.

I'm finished with all of my suspension upgrades this year. After putting on the rear sway bar, that made a unbelivable difference. I'm amazed at how well the car handles.

I'm now in the market for some good tires. My rim size is 15x7, what size tires can I fit in the front and back. Currently in the back is 235, and front is 205. I would like to be able to put 235's in front and 245's in the rear, or possible put 245's all the way around. Is there any recommendations on what tire's to get, and what sizes??

Thanks,
Jeremy

You have to be careful with 245s on the front. To be safe stick to 235s which is a better width for the wheel anyway.

245s on the rear will be fine.

There are a few threads on this subject here on the board. Use the search facility and see what other people are using.

Also bear in mind the diameter of the tire. If you change the diameter away from stock you also change the gearing and you will need a new speedo gear in the trans to correct your speedo. This is actually an easy job. Look at the top of the transmission section and you will find a calculator that will tell you what size speedo gear you need for any given combo.

dave-r wrote:You have to be careful with 245s on the front.

I agree with Dave. I have 245's on front and it's no good.

B.F. Goodrich P235 R60 15's on all four corners, mounted on Factory Ralleyes. I wont use any tire but B.F. Goodrich even on my trucks! I have been using them for over 20+years.