The Dodge Challenger Message Board

I am refreshing the front sway bar bushings on my 70 R/T (A66) which has a 340 engine, .92 torsion bar, and .875 sway bar. What I need to know is the length of the center spacer between the gromments to order new links. I made these in high school and am not sure if they are correct. Also the metal O-ring shown disassembled in the picture, is it needed?

Any ideas on repairing the torn mount on the LCA? I plan to weld a washer on the top or bottom. Possibly another member has done this before and can provide a better fix.

Thanks!

You don't want that metal ring.

I do not know how long the spacer sleeve should be and I don't think it is critical except on a very pure restoration.

I would just weld the mount on the LCA. I doubt if it would ever crack again but if it did then use one washer on the inside out of sight.

The weld, if done right, will be stronger than the metal around it.

Jon wrote:What I need to know is the length of the center spacer between the gromments to order new links.

I did a measure on my car (a former 318"-car) and the total length inclusive both washers is 52 mm (about 2"). The washers are 3.5 mm each and that gives a center spacer length of 45 mm.

Thanks Christer.

The one shown in the picture is about 1-7/8" so that would be correct. The reason I asked is the links in the Jeg's catalog only go down to 2-5/8" (I think). Maybe I will order the gromments only and use the washers and spacers from the old ones.

The swap bar end link bracket on the other side had been welded using a washer once before. I think these mounts maybe too weak when using a firm "poly" type gromment. The link in the pic was made of nylon or delrin if I remember right.

Jon wrote:Any ideas on repairing the torn mount on the LCA?

Why do you think it has become cracked? (I am just wondering.)

That could be the nylon causing that cracking. I used nylon bushes on the suspension struts of an old Mini once and the strut eventually snapped.

Looking at my LCA the bracket seems quite substantial.

If you feel you really need to strengthen the bracket then weld on a bit of metal that either fits exactly or is not visible under the bushes.

If you feel you really need to strengthen the bracket then weld on a bit of metal that either fits exactly or is not visible under the bushes.

Yah Dave, the side that has the washer welded in place is still in good shape. It is on the bottom side and pretty much hidden. Also by welding at the under side of the bend this should help strengthen that area too.

Christer, the nylon bushings had no give at all which might not be a good thing. I am thinking of trying the poly inserts this time. Do they have any flex to them? I wonder if they harden over time also.

A couple of months ago I had to drive my wife's Expedition on the jobsite and broke one of the end links due to the rough terrain. What a differance in the way the car drove. It wanted to lean a dart off left or right at the slightest turn.

The bushings were a hard, brittle, material also. The bolt broke due to the rust forming between the spacer and bolt I believe. The design traps water inside and eventually things deteriorate.

I use silicon grease on and in every part of the sway bar bushings. Keeps the moisture out.

The poly bushings are not solid. They are just harder than rubber so there is still a little give in them as well as some shock absorbtion.

They do not change properties over time that I know of. I have used them for years on the Challenger as well as other cars. They are just the same as when they were new bar a bit of road grime.

Those are poly in the photo I put up. About 10 years old they are.

Hey! Where is my photo I posted above gone??

Here it is again.

Jon wrote:, the nylon bushings had no give at all which might not be a good thing.

I think so too.

Are you using an 1" plus front sway bar Dave? If so did it clear the "tunnel" in the K frame ok? I think mine maybe tweaked as the .875 just makes it thru.

I will give the poly bushings a try. They are only $15 a pair. At that price you my want to clean up the underside of your car too.

It is 1-1/8th diameter Jon. It goes in the 440 K-frame with no problems but, if I remember right, a wheel removed and a bit of ground clearence helps?

My '70 Challenger is originally a 318 car. Will it have the mounting tabs for a front sway-bar already installed on the LCA's or do I need to add them in order to install a sway bar? Does anyone sell these tabs pre-made, or do I have to fab them myself?

Gordon wrote:Will it have the mounting tabs for a front sway-bar already installed on the LCA's or do I need to add them in order to install a sway bar?

You will have to look to see.

Normally cars that did not come with a sway bar from the factory didn't have a mounting tab either.

You can get tabs to weld on from the companies selling sway bars but I have not been impressed with the ones I have seen. They could easily be improved if you can weld though.

Gordon,

I sent you a PM. I might have what you are looking for, if I didn't throw them away.

JB

JB,
thanks for the quick reply. The car is at the shop right now. I'll go see if it has the end link brackets already installed on the LCA's. This site is a great reference tool for us Challenger enthusiasts. Thanks!

Do the front sway-bar and the rear sway-bar use exactly the same link (the same part number)?

Thanks in advance.

christer wrote:Do the front sway-bar and the rear sway-bar use exactly the same link (the same part number)?

It looks like the answer is NO.

WH5992 Front sway bar end link kit for 1970-1974 Chrysler B- and E-body models. $59.00

SB67 Reproduction sway bar end link kit for 1967-1969 A & B-body front and E-body rear models. $72.00

(From the Year One catalog.)

Christer, I would have posted if I knew of could check. Mine doesn't have a rear sway bar though.

Nice too know, they are not the same. Maybe the geometry difference. Thanks for the follow-up.

Jon wrote:Christer, I would have posted if I knew of could check. Mine doesn't have a rear sway bar though.

Nice too know, they are not the same. Maybe the geometry difference. Thanks for the follow-up.

Yeah, I wonder what the difference is. The length probably. I believe that the bushings are the same though (but I am not sure).