Suspension/Steering/Brakes Advice?
Posted: 26 Jan 2006 18:50I’m posting this hoping that some of you will be interested in handing out some free advice about setting up the suspension and brakes on my car. It’s just returned from the body shop after getting the rust taken out of the rear end and I’m now getting ready to start working on the suspension and brakes. As part of that body work I also had Auto Rust Technicians frame connectors installed. I’ve done a lot of reading and research (including Super Street Mopar by Mike Martin) but given the high level of knowledge on this site I thought I would post my current plan and see if anyone has any good ideas for how to improve it. Better now than after I spend the money.
My goal for the car is to have a fun to drive, nicely restored hobby car. I’m not looking for a 100 point concours car and the car isn’t going to be stock since it already isn’t numbers matching. It’s a 1970 convertible which was originally a 318 car. I’m planning to keep it a small block, but haven’t committed to the specifics yet. Suspension wise I’m looking for more of a road racer than a drag car, but obviously I’d like to be able to take it to the strip if the spirit moves me. However, I definitely want to end up with something that will be enjoyable for a weekend pleasure drive and that my wife can drive from time to time if she wants to.
Here’s what I’m currently planning:
Front Suspension - .96” torsion bars (Hemi/440 stock size was .92), Edelbrock Performer IAS Monotube shocks, 1 1/8” sway bar, stock K frame, Firm Feel tubular control arms, stock strut rods, Polygraphite bushings, stock wheel bearings. stock ball joints, 235/60/15 tires on 15X7 Rallye Wheels with 4 ¼” backspacing.
Rear Suspension - 4½ leaf HD springs (stock for 340, 426 was 5½ leaf), Edelbrock Performer IAS Monotube shocks, ¾” sway bar, Polygraphite bushings, stock wheel bearings; 255/60/15 tires on 15X8 Rallye Wheels with 4½” backspacing.
Steering - Firm Feel Stage 2 performance power steering box, stock Pitman and Idler arms, stock tie rod ends.
Brakes – Upgrade front brakes to disc using ’73-76 A body spindles, stock 11.75” HD rotors, stock 11.75” Pin Type Caliper Adapters, stock calipers and stock semi-metallic pads. Rebuild the stock 10” rear drums using stock parts. Use a stock 4 bolt disc brake master cylinder and a Mopar Performance/Wilwood proportioning valve. New brake lines all around.
Thanks for any thoughts anyone has. This board has been an invaluable resource for me as I’ve been working on my car and I greatly appreciate the efforts of everyone involved.
Jim P.
My goal for the car is to have a fun to drive, nicely restored hobby car. I’m not looking for a 100 point concours car and the car isn’t going to be stock since it already isn’t numbers matching. It’s a 1970 convertible which was originally a 318 car. I’m planning to keep it a small block, but haven’t committed to the specifics yet. Suspension wise I’m looking for more of a road racer than a drag car, but obviously I’d like to be able to take it to the strip if the spirit moves me. However, I definitely want to end up with something that will be enjoyable for a weekend pleasure drive and that my wife can drive from time to time if she wants to.
Here’s what I’m currently planning:
Front Suspension - .96” torsion bars (Hemi/440 stock size was .92), Edelbrock Performer IAS Monotube shocks, 1 1/8” sway bar, stock K frame, Firm Feel tubular control arms, stock strut rods, Polygraphite bushings, stock wheel bearings. stock ball joints, 235/60/15 tires on 15X7 Rallye Wheels with 4 ¼” backspacing.
Rear Suspension - 4½ leaf HD springs (stock for 340, 426 was 5½ leaf), Edelbrock Performer IAS Monotube shocks, ¾” sway bar, Polygraphite bushings, stock wheel bearings; 255/60/15 tires on 15X8 Rallye Wheels with 4½” backspacing.
Steering - Firm Feel Stage 2 performance power steering box, stock Pitman and Idler arms, stock tie rod ends.
Brakes – Upgrade front brakes to disc using ’73-76 A body spindles, stock 11.75” HD rotors, stock 11.75” Pin Type Caliper Adapters, stock calipers and stock semi-metallic pads. Rebuild the stock 10” rear drums using stock parts. Use a stock 4 bolt disc brake master cylinder and a Mopar Performance/Wilwood proportioning valve. New brake lines all around.
Thanks for any thoughts anyone has. This board has been an invaluable resource for me as I’ve been working on my car and I greatly appreciate the efforts of everyone involved.
Jim P.