The Dodge Challenger Message Board

Got the leaf springs re- arched. Drives like a different car now. In removing the springs I realised that the existing bushings were rubber and very worn (squashed to bits). Time to replace them with some polyurethane items. I found two kits were available. One was for 440/ 426 engined cars, one was for all other engines. The problem is that the car has a 440 in it now, but was originally a 383 car. Is there any way of telling which set of leafsprings I have on the car now?

The difference is in the diameter of the front eye on each leaf spring. If I remember right the 440/426 cars had a smaller diameter eye.
Measure the size bushing you have now and get the kit that fits.

While I was having lunch it came to my mind that a 440/426 spring has a 1.5 inch eye at the front and all the rest have a 2 inch eye. I will have to check that when I get home (if it is in the manual) unless someone out there knows for sure?

Thank you again Dave. The two kits I found through Summit (note to diary- buy Summit shares)dont give sizes, but I'll do a measure- up and see what I'm looking at.

I forgot to check! But you still need to measure yours whatever.

Oh and ESPO are usually the cheapest and best for suspension parts.

Dave,

At the risk of taking up your entire life with inane questions, I'm just about to make a start at moving the leafsprings 3" inboard using a MP kit.

Am I right in thinking the whole axle needs to come off to do this?
Are there any pitfalls or things I need to watch for while I'm doing this? I think you may have covered this in an earlier link, but I can't find it. Thanks for any pointers.

You will need to remove the axle to cut off the spring mounts and weld new ones on in their new location. I have a pair if you need them.

Thank you for your kind offer Dave. I think there's a pair in the kit, but I'll check.

I was pretty sure the axle had to come off, but was in denial. I'll get stuck in and see how it goes. I may be asking some even dafter questions before it's finished.

I'm hoping to re- shape my existing 'works rally' rear arches to look something like correct, fit new wheels, and the cam and carb before the Mopar Nationals.

Delusional Tim.}

Checked the MP kit, and they had included a pair of spring mounts, but thanks again Dave. Chopped one 'wrong' arch off, and test fitted the new wheels/ tyres tonight. Car looks a million times better (to me anyway). The MP kit turned out to be next to useless, unless I literally Pro Street the rear end. I'm getting seriously underwhelmed with their stuff. I recently forked out for a new chrome ECU, which never worked, then the orange unit went pop too. This is what led me into proper digital ignition.

Anyway, back to the point. I can utilise some of the parts from the MP kit to remount the fronts of the leaf springs about 1.5" inboard, which seems to be more than enough, but I can't see an obvious way to move the rears in. There's a new pair of shackles in the kit, but no real clues, without moving the entire framerails. Am I missing an obvious solution?

I thought if you used the MP kit you must want to move the springs in a lot for big wheels or slicks or something?

It is MANY years since I looked at the MP kit in catalogs. But I seem to remember that e-bodys and B-bodys differ in the way the rear shackle is mounted? Hang on I will look in on of my files...

Nah. Can't find the thing I was thinking of. However I did find a hand written note saying 440 & 426 springs have a 1.5" front eye and the others are 2". So that confirms what I was thinking above.

Ok I can't find the article I was thinking of that shows one of these kits being installed in a B-Body. I have a feeling though (b-body owners can correct or confirm here) that the shackles mount outboard of the frame rails on a b-body. I have a feeling that moving the springs inboard involves mounting the shackle on the frame rail.

Of course the shackle is already mounted like this on an e-body! Maybe I made all this up in my head but that is how I remember it. I am sure there was something to allow you to do this on an e-body but I can't remember what. It must involve mounting them inboard of the frame.

When I decided to fit 10x15s and 295/50 tyres on the back of my Chally I decided to use offset spring hangers. These don't move the springs in as much (less than an inch each side) but it was enough for my purpose and was a hell of a lot easier than cutting and welding the chassis with the kit you got. I think I have a description of exactly what I did on here somwhere? Do a keyword search from the utility in the left frame and see if you can find it.

Thanks for the feedback Dave. My wheel/ tyre sizes are the same as yours (5 1/2 backspacing). The wheels fit no problem, but the tyres will rub against the rear of the leaf springs as things are. The MP kit moves everything inboard 3", which is really overkill for what I need, and involves cutting the framerails. Offset rear hangers would solve the problem in no time. As you say, it only needs to come inboard about 7mm to clear the tyres. Did you fabricate your own, or does somebody manufacture them?

Answered my own question Dave. MP do the kit (part no. 4120076). Any idea if I can source this in the UK? I need this really quickly (before the end of this week) if I'm going to make the Nats.

Answered that one too. Nobody's got one off the shelf. I think I'll try getting longer bolts for the rear hangers, make some spacers and try and offset it that way. I'll weld the bolt in place to keep everything rigid.
Fingers crossed.

I ordered mine through Hausers but I think he had to ship them in. Did you find all the threads where I have gone over this before? There are a few. I had to modify a-body front hangers to use with stock length springs. Maybe a few photos with my digi camera will help?

I would be very grateful for a couple of photo's Dave, prior to getting stuck in with the welding torch. It's the sort of thing that's difficult to undo, if I mess it up. I'm going full tilt to try and finish this for the weekend. Next week is the cam and carb.

God help us all.

It is wet on the ground after a sudden and very heavy rain shower but if it dries up after dinner I will take a couple of snapshots.

Sorry i should have put a ruler in the shot with it.



You can see the outside mounting studs go under the edge of the bracket and that it is made from two 'L' shaped bits of steel welded together.



Still plenty of room to get a nut between the bolt and the chassis.



Inside view of the back of the mounting studs.

Thank you very much for taking the time to get these shots for me Dave, I really appreciate it. I'll climb back under the car tonight, and have a good measure up before I start. Your photo's will save me a mountain of guess work.

Thanks again.

Mmm. Just noticed from that last shot my hedge needs cutting again....

There's a hedge in the picture?
I was too busy checking out your wheel arches (matron).

I was trying to keep the rust bubbles out of focus so I focused on the Neon instead. It is just my age showing that I noticed the hedge. Like when I see a naked girl now I think "that's a nice nail colour".

Well OK that's what I tell my wife!

The truth is the two gardens take up so much time in the summer I don't get to fiddle with the Challenger as much or when I like. Seeing the hedge needs trimming makes my heart sink because that is another Saturday afternoon I have to waste gardening instead of doing stuff I like doing!

I have moles in mine.

Nuff said.

Sounds painful...

Brings a tear to my eye Phil.

Picking up on a comment in the thread about Hans' car, my leafsprings came back from the heat treatment process with the rear passenger side sitting about 1" lower than the rear drivers side. As I understand it, the car will try to unload the passenger rear wheel on hard launch, and the lower leaf spring will just make things worse. To cure this, can I swap the springs over, so the drivers side sits slightly lower? This would hopefully even out the tyre loading, and improve my 60ft times?

Yeah swap them over.