The Dodge Challenger Message Board

I posted about this a while back and I think I described the problem incorrectly.
I had stated that my dash lights/ exterior lights would "flicker" but I've noticed this only happens when I depress the brake pedal.
Could this be the voltage regulator? I'm getting good output from the alternator and the battery is charged so where should I look?

Have you noticed it only when the ign is off and you're just sitting in the car playing with the lights?
If you notice it when the cars running I'd suggest that the voltage output from the dash dimmer is prob a bit low, try bypassing it by linking the wires together and see if it makes any difference.

I'll check tonight and see if it occurs at both instances. I've only noticed it with the engine running.

That kind of answers my question Chuck, cos if it had only flickered with the ign off I would have just said don't worry it's just the old reg reacting to the lack of running voltage.

Still bypass the dimmer tho and see what happens.

Hmmmn.
so I could have a bad dimer? I do notice that when you try to dim the dash, it goes out about 1/4 of the way down. I didn't pay it much attention as I only leave the dash lights at full anyway.

Mine does that too Chuck, also if you have it on max sometimes it just goes off and you just gotta turn it down then up again and it's all happy happy joy joy

Do you have the same issue with your light flickering? Mine actually dims a bit and then cuts off, so yeah, I roll it up and down a couple of times and back to full on.

Do I replace this dimmer to solve the issue?

Mine doesn't really flicker it just goes off every now and again. To be honest the amount of night driving I do in it is so marginal I put up with it. I do have a couple spare dimmers tho Chuck so if you bypass it and it cures the problem and you can't find a replacement over there I'll post it over to you

I took mine apart and cleaned it up and for a while it worked fine. But it didn't last. So I by-passed it so the lights are on full brightness all the time. It still worked to switch on the interior light.

Thanks Adrian.
You know, my dimmer does not even turn on the interior light. I was thinking about that the other day.
Which particular wires do I leave and which do I bypass? (Its been a while)

By the way-

When this "flickering" is happening, it's NOT just the dash lights but ALSO the Headlights, Parking Lights and Tail Lights.

???

It's the light switch, it's fucked, they have to take all the power thru to the lamps, fit a light relay when you fit the new switch, you'll be amazed at the improvement

Thanks.
Can you tell me how to wire this thing exactly? Standard 12V relay?
A diagram would be much appreciated!
I will look for the switch...

Try this......

OK.
I'm "electrically challenged", Adrian.
Where do you install the relays? I take it standard Bosch 12Volt relays are fine, right?
Existing wire harness would be to the dimmer switch?

Stick em behind the battery tray if you have space, easy place to choose cos youre already to tap straight into the two power feeds and the battery source.
Those Bosch relays are perfect, don't worry about the where the feeds are coming from, just use your test meter to isolate the dip and main beam feeds and attatch as the diagram.
On a 72 there is a different slam panel of course, so you'll have to experiment where to site them.
Obviously a water resitant cover or something similar would help no end, but I've seen a lot of em just screwed to the rad support panel at the top right where the lighting harness goes thru

So, by doing this I won't have to bypass the dimmer, right?

Yeah try it first, but still change the light switch tho, I'd bet thats screwed

Yeah the headlight switch needs replacing. With relays the headlights will be brighter too.

So- the main harness going into the car is TWO WIRES right? I'm simply placing TWO relays in line between that switch and the headlights?

Anyone got any photos of this having been done already? (I'm a visual learner!)

Thanks

Any particular gauge wire? Can I use 18g or should I go with 12g?
Don't wanna burn nothing up~
?????

And while I'm at it, what size fuse do I use? Where do I place it?

If you look on the internet you will find all kinds of hints and tips on doing this very common conversion. There are even complete "kits" available.

http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical ... ghts.shtml

I have an update on my flickering headlights and dash instrument lights...
I removed the bad dash panel dimmer switch from just below the headlight switch and left it out so I could locate a replacement that works. (I bought one from a guy on Ebay who claimed it was "working when removed" and it was a corroded ridiculous waste of time.) So, I will have no dash lights for a little while.
I decided to install the dual relays for the hi and lo beams, so I built my own harnesses and located the relays just under the battery tray.
I ran the grounds right up to the main ground at the radiator support and ran the main harnesses under the tray towards the firewall and up right next to the starter relay where I attached the power for the relays. I then spliced into the headlight wires (violet and red) and made everything nice and neat.
After starting up the car, I checked the lights and they worked correctly (No smoke yea!) and noticed that the relays clicked when I turned off the lights, which I assume is correct.
To my disappointment, the headlights STILL flickered. %*(#!@
I am hoping that replacing the dash dimmer switch will resolve this problem, although I have another question that may be related.
I decided to check the voltage regulator by putting a multi-meter on the battery with the car at idle to check voltage.
At Idle, I was getting 14.5 to 14.76 volts, which seems a bit high. When I increased the engine RPM,s I noticed that the voltage INCREASED to 15.2 to 15.65 volts, which I don't think is good!
Do I replace the voltage regulator? (The one I have was a new replacement)
And will replacing the regulator solve my continuing problems?
And, do I replace the hi-lo beam floor switch as well?

Thanks

That voltage reading you got at the reg is ok Chuck, just over 15volts is about right.

cv70chall wrote:At Idle, I was getting 14.5 to 14.76 volts, which seems a bit high. When I increased the engine RPM,s I noticed that the voltage INCREASED to 15.2 to 15.65 volts, which I don't think is good!
Do I replace the voltage regulator? (The one I have was a new replacement)
And will replacing the regulator solve my continuing problems?
And, do I replace the hi-lo beam floor switch as well?

Thanks

Check that the voltage regulator is grounded well to the bodywork. Like most all of the electrical stuff on there it works via the ground connection.

Thanks Dave!
So, I will keep the voltage regulator if you say it's healthy. I am going to remove it, sand the mounting holes real good and bolt one of them through the access panel where the wiper assembly is. I'll make sure it's secured.
In the meantime, I'm still baffled by the flickering of the lights. Do I still proceed with a swap out of the floor hi-lo beam switch? I do remember cleaning it very well before I reinstalled it. Could it possibly be a poor ground at that switch as well?
Are 15A fuses enough for the headlight relays?
As soon as I can locate a dash dimmer switch, I will install that although I can't imagine that installing that switch would simply solve the problem.
Any other places/ potential problems I can investigate? It's frustrating.

Thanks as always...

I didn't say the regulator was healthy. But it could be. They just don't work without a good ground as they work by grounding out the alternator field circuit whenever voltage rises above 14.5 volts.

14.5 volts is not too high for charging the battery by the way.

The high/low headlight switch could be faulty. I had one causing problems once. But usually I would suspect the actual headlight switch as they burn out over time. We have been telling you it is the headlight switch for a while but I think you have missed that.

Hey Dave-

I was confused as to whether we were talking about the headlight DIMMER switch on the left dash panel or the foot switch for hi/lo beams on the floor. (I understand they both can go bad)
My headlight on/off switch that controls the parking lights and headlights is fine (unless there is something I am missing)
I had hoped the relays would have solved my issues though.

As far as the regulator, I am going to make sure it's completely grounded and then run another test- engine running at idle- meter on battery.
(I was always told your voltage range was supposed to be 13.9v to 14.5v nominal and no higher than 14.80v-15.0v at increased RPM's.

Not true huh?