The Dodge Challenger Message Board

I've encountered two bad gauges (which worked fine 2 weeks ago and decided to die yesterday during the shake down drive)
The Speedo and Fuel Gauge both need to be replaced and I need to know if there is a way to remove the instrument cluster for access to these gauges without having to remove the entire dash.

Thanks!

Yes you can remove the cluster without removing the dash. But if I remember right you will have to drop the steering column down.

Yep, drop the column down on those two 7/16" head bolts just either side of the assy just under the dash. Rallye or std cluster comes out easy Chuck, just have to tilt it around a lil bit
If its Rallye don't scratch the fake woodgrain

Adrian Worman wrote:If its Rallye don't scratch the fake woodgrain

I'm not the only one then.

On a non-rally, I take it the light bar comes out first right? I want to make sure this is done right- as it was a puzzle piece to assemble- and that was with the dash OUT of the car. Any other little tricks you might be able to pass along??

Lastly, I've got wiper issues still. Both speeds on the 2-speed switch work but no park. I replaced the park mechanism with a new one and still nothing.
Could I possibly have the harness plugged into the wrong set of terminals on the switch? I did notice there could be more than one way to plug the harness onto the switch.

Thanks- hopefully we solve these this weekend- and the car gets driven home- after 3 years in the shop!

Yep, lights out first, unscrew all the fixings on the instrument panel and the left hand panel with the switches, remove the gauge surround first, you'll have to jiggle the l/h panel around a bit hence the removal of the fixings then take the screws out holding the instrument cluster in, pull it forward a couple of inches and pull the speedo cable off, followed by the wiring loom that you can now see clearly

I still reckon you've got the wrong switch for your wipers Chuck Are you certain you have a 2 speed motor?

Hi Adrian,

Thanks for the tips. We're tackling it this weekend. As for the wiper switch, it only has an OFF position and 2 speeds. We turn the motor on and you clearly have a low and hi speed.
???

Could've had a later 3 speed motor installed in the past, take a pic of it please Chuck so we can eliminate it
I only suggest this cos I done this very same thing on my 72 without realising what I'd done and I had to learn l about em

I'll take a photo for you after I get the pesky instrument panel out this weekend.
Yikes!!!

If you still got an ammeter make sure the battery is disconnected SAFELY before you start
Just take ya time Chuck, you're more than capable of this task mate

Will do!
What's the BEST way to test the tank float without removing the gas tank? I will use a 6v source and not 12v to test the gauges.

The tank sender unit is easy to test for resistance and it comes out the tank in about 5minutes.
To check the gauge just ground out the disconnected tank sender lead to the frame for a second or two, no more or it will fry the gauge, it will go straight to full if it's good. If you gotta get a nee sender then get one with a 3/8" minimum pick up tube

Thanks!
But how can I check the sender unit? I've got a full tank of gas strapped to the car...lol

Measure the resistance of the fuel sender.

With the float in the 'empty' position you should get a reading of 73 ohms (+/- 12 ohms).

In the full position the reading should be 9.6ohms (+/- 1 ohm).

If the guage does not defect to full when you ground the hot wire to the sender then make sure the sender itself is grounded. They usually ground via the fuel line. The short rubber hose connecting the line to teh sender should have an earth strap jumping the rubber hose.

Thanks for the tips on the cluster!
Was able to remove the cluster without going insane and replaced the speedo. Tested the fuel gauge and it worked fine so I'll go to the back and test the sender/ sender ground.
I also pulled the wiper assembly and here are some pics of the front and back of the switch as well as the plugs. It is a 2 speed switch and seemed to be hooked up correctly.
Maybe I have a bum switch?

No that's a 3 speed/ variable switch mate. Test the output of the switch with your meter

Really?
There are only two click positions on it- and when you have it hooked up- you get a slow and slightly faster speed from each click of the switch.

Does the knob turn a bit, say 1/2 turn from the first position? And does the knob push in to activate the washer pump?
It looks just like my variable switch from the rear, the two speed ones I've seen are much set in diameter and have a shiny stamped case.

Check this link and click on Wiper motor switches Chuck, see the differemces?
http://www.jimsautoparts.com/electric.htm#windshield wiper switch

My witch does not turn /2 turn. You have one click and a second click and that's it.
It does not push in either- and I have the manual foot pump in this car.
????

Here are some pics offline - confusing yes?

Ok then mate we've established you have a 2 speed switch, so are we sure you have a 2 speed motor? Can we see it? The 3 speed or variable has a motor that lays against the firewall and the 2 speed one has a motor that is at 90deg to the firewall
A mismatched switch and motor usually causes the wipers to not park

Not parking is quite a common fault on old wiper motors. Normally you have to take the top of the wiper motor gearbox and clean up the contacts.

In the workshop manual they list a series of electrical tests to carry out on the motor to check correct operation. I remember doing this sitting on my Dads doorstep with a spare battery and some spare cable back in 1990.

Here's a photo of the motor. Runs fine. Both speeds work fine. Now also has a NOS parking assembly (lower portion)

Yep, thats a 2 speed motor Chuck, the issue has gotta be in the park mechanism like Daveman said all along, still worth eliminating the bloody obvious tho eh?

Geez...I'll check the upper motor assembly and then I guess if that fails- RAIN-X...
Heh