The Dodge Challenger Message Board

How'd it go? Did you get your answer?

Ok so Drew called me up and we went through some of the issues.

I got a reading of 12.6 on the battery so that was good and and the multi meter was ok.

I placed the probes on the battery and the ne cable connected to the G pin on the starter relay. I have the car in park and the ignition keyed turned and the display showed 00.0 on the DC dial at 200.

So I guess that means the unit is faulty eh?

RedRaven wrote:Ok so Drew called me up and we went through some of the issues.

I got a reading of 12.6 on the battery so that was good and and the multi meter was ok.

I placed the probes on the battery and the ne cable connected to the G pin on the starter relay. I have the car in park and the ignition keyed turned and the display showed 00.0 on the DC dial at 200.

So I guess that means the unit is faulty eh?

No, you have the Meter on a range thats to great to measure at small voltages. Try setting the Meter to 20 Volts Wayne. The Meters are usually set up for 200Volts then 20 Volts then 2 Volts then 200 Milli Volts Wayne,, most of your testing will involve setting the Dial at 20 Volts OK.. Yep, just as I thought,,back it down to 20 Volts Bro.. The bar at the left of the number indicates the meter is out of range!!

Ok Eddie I will try that..I also had the meter at the continuity setting and I got no audio from it.

If you are checking the cable and switch use the continuity setting.
Leave the ignition off.

Touch the two probs together first to check you get a BEEP.

Then put one probe on the battery negative terminal and the other probe on the trans case.
You should get a beep if your engine ground is OK. If not then that is your problem. The engine is not earthed to the chassis and negative terminal on the battery.

If you do get a beep leave your probe on the batt neg and put the other probe on your G relay terminal. If you are in Park or Neutral (try both) you should get a beep.

If not, take the connector off the safety switch and put your probe on the center terminal of the connector. If you get a beep the switch is not working. If you do not get a beep your wiring to the G terminal is broken.

Yes Wayne, I see that now.

dave-r wrote:
If not, take the connector off the safety switch and put your probe on the center terminal of the connector. If you get a beep the switch is not working. If you do not get a beep your wiring to the G terminal is broken.

So if the connector beeps between the two on the continuity setting then switch is not working?

Should I have the ignition on or off for this?

RedRaven wrote:

dave-r wrote:
If not, take the connector off the safety switch and put your probe on the center terminal of the connector. If you get a beep the switch is not working. If you do not get a beep your wiring to the G terminal is broken.

So if the connector beeps between the two on the continuity setting then switch is not working?

Should I have the ignition on or off for this?

try it both ways and see what happens

KOOL

I did say very clearly NOT to switch the ignition on when checking continuity.

You only need the ignition on when you are checking voltages which you are NOT doing.

If you accidently put the probs across a voltage when set to continuity you will probably blow the meter up.

Ok. I will head over at some stage today.

oops my bad you did say that, yea dont blow the meter, sorry for the mislead,

I think every electrical apprentice at some point goes and puts a meter over the mains when it is switched to continuity. You never do it twice.

In my case I was trying to work out why something on a PA system wasn't working and although I thought I had switched the power off I obviously hadn't.

I was kneeling on the floor and had the meter on the floor between my knees. When it blew the top half of the meter case just missed my forehead and slammed into the ceiling. Every resistor and diode on the meters circuit board had blown apart. It was quite a bang.

OK so the car is only 12-14 volts but I am sure it would not do the meter any good if Wayne connected across something live.

dave-r wrote:I think every electrical apprentice at some point goes and puts a meter over the mains when it is switched to continuity. You never do it twice.

In my case I was trying to work out why something on a PA system wasn't working and although I thought I had switched the power off I obviously hadn't.

I was kneeling on the floor and had the meter on the floor between my knees. When it blew the top half of the meter case just missed my forehead and slammed into the ceiling. Every resistor and diode on the meters circuit board had blown apart. It was quite a bang.

OK so the car is only 12-14 volts but I am sure it would not do the meter any good if Wayne connected across something live.

wow you really learned the hard way , i luckily have never done that ,(AND I AM ABLE TO F UP A FEW THINGS MY SELF THANK YOU VERY MUCH) but now that i know that , i wont forget your story,
i feel like an apprentice sometimes with electrical i always end up callin seth or jim or phil or tony i have alot of peeps that keep me headed in the right direction

not to hijack this thread but im out the door as we speak to bandimere to see what this big dude will do with the 3:23,s in the 1/4 so wish me luck

ok so I can put on on the probe in me japs eye and cross it ove a live connection....

Good Luck Drew!

dave-r wrote:I did say very clearly NOT to switch the ignition on when checking continuity.

You only need the ignition on when you are checking voltages which you are NOT doing.

If you accidently put the probs across a voltage when set to continuity you will probably blow the meter up.

Good info, probably why my meter occationally blows the fuse.

Ok.............for those on line now I can say with great delight Im typing this post from the fender of my challenger....mobile broadband OH YESSSSSSSSSS.

So Dave Ive done as you said. Ignition OFF.

Keys out.

Negative side of battery probe to the trans casing BEEP.

Negative side of battery probe to the cerntral pin of the neutral switch BEEP.

So the switch is buggered YES?


If it is the unit I will need a deep socket to get it out as a standard socket wont get a decent bite on enough of the nut.

RedRaven wrote:Negative side of battery probe to the cerntral pin of the neutral switch BEEP.

Now did you mean center pin of the switch connector or center pin of the switch?

If you put the probe on the center pin of the switch then it is fine. You are checking that the switch connects to ground which is how it works.

You need to put one probe on the G terminal and one on the center pin on the conector. If that does not beep the wiring is faulty.

If it does beep and the ground to center pin on the switch beeps as well then the problem exists somewhere else completely.

Ok Dave yes I got a beep from the battery negative to the neutral switch.

So that means the switch is fine.

I also went back and did the battery negative to the central connector on the cable and got no beep.
So where does that leave me. Either the cable however new it is..thats faulty or the starter relay is bad or maybe a fuse issue??

At this point Im lost, but from a proccess of ilimination at least the switch is ok I guess

No you will not get a beep doing that.

Think logically.

The neg of the battery = ground right? Keep that in your head.

The "G" terminal on the relay is not connected to ground until the safety switch grounds it.

To check the wiring put one probe on the "G" terminal and the other in the center pin of the connector. That should beep and tell you the wiring is OK.

If the wiring is OK, put the connector back on and see if you get a beep between the negative of the battery and the "G" terminal.

Then put the car in gear and check that you no longer have a beep. This is how it should work.

If all that checks out fine then the fault is somewhere else.

Told you it wouldn't be the switch didn't I?

Yes Dave you did say it wouldnt be the switch haha. Ok I will go back on those points later in the week. Thanks

OK so Ive done all these things as above and previous...so whats left.

Where could the fault be if its not here?

Any suggestions?

RedRaven wrote:OK so Ive done all these things as above and previous...so whats left.

So what results did you get with my last instructions?

Ok so I sorted how to convert the huge file to a smaller one and posted it on you tube...take a look at the engine bay...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uGxdBW35xW8

ok what no narration,it looks moist there

so there is no battery to chassis ground,do it, might not fix things but you should have it,and that starter relay area has some boogered wires and looks dirty, use that electric clean it is fairly friendly to paint so use it and clean things up a little
the carb might work ok but it needs at least some carb cleaner in side and out, and if it runs for now leave it , but it might need a rebuild , its a holley it can be done pretty easy,

and if you do another vid get a candle (jus kiddin) or something for more light,perhaps a flash light or "torch"

I love your R/T Wayne I would save my money for a new Engine wiring harness. It's obviously been 'hacked up' with those cheap and dangerous 'butt' connectors on the starter relay. Dave's way of soldering the conductor is the only way. The Master Feed into the firewall could use a good cleaning, or save and get a new interior harness too. It would probably eliminate most of your problems Wayne. Just unplug the old, route it, and plug in the new. But as Drew said you need a good ground, and yeah it looks moist in there,(looks like a sharamuta after Sat night)

Yeah Eddie....It looks Fooked hahaha....

Think a new harness would be the trick and save me a bunch of problem....

Can you and Drew source a good one for me so I can buy it...

just get me the details or the website and I can order it online

كبير يتحدث معك أخي

RedRaven wrote:كبير يتحدث معك أخي

i caint quite cipher that rasmuth?