[kevins]

I just got around to working on the voltage problem and found that the battery was dead and needed to be jumped. When I did that I noticed that the turn signals worked correctly and the head lights were brighter. So its not the flasher that is bad. So I tested the Alternater with a voltage meter and it read 10.4 volts right off of it. I also noticed the the ALT gage was jumping slightly towards the D- side. Not sure if this means anything. When I took the alternator to a couple of places it was reading out at 14 volts on the tester. I was wondering the battery cables need to be replaced or could there be a short? Should Ialso have the regulator tested? Not sure what else it could be. Any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

[dave-r]

Sounds like you might have a short somewhere.

The "D" on the ammeter means "Discharge" which means something is using battery power. So if everything is switched off and you get a defection on the ammeter it probably means there is a short.

[Jimiboy]

I do not want to sound negative, i just want to say my meaning in this. I think the stock alternators are nothing else but real
J U N K. I have been thrue 3 of them and two regulators the last 4 seasons. Lot's of problems with no charging, everything between 10Volts to 13-14 Volts... not enough to ignition, running stereo, electric fan etc... Now i run with a 70 Amp BOSCH with internal regulator. No more problems! Constant 14,5 Volts if i remember correct... This i recommend you guys that can live with the fact that you will not have a stock alternator, or stock factory look. But they are solid and you can thrust them, & they WILL work! Much more realiable! No affence to the rest of you that feel you have no problems with standard chrysler alternators. I hope you don't mind.. This is my oppinion only!

Btw, maybe you could test another regulator, see what happens?
(From my experience, i think that the volts can seem to be ok when you meassure, but the amps can play you around a bit when the alternators are done. This will get you very confused, it looks like you have volts enough but still not. When these alternators, regulators are done they ARE done, not realible at all... It is like they can have enough volts without any load, but when you are getting in to use some lights etc, out on some charge on the battery, then there is not enough, the alternator is to weak, very, very confusing and irritating) The ammeter will act like this even without any short, i guess you do not have any short (hope not) "could be" but, if the alternator or/and regulator start to get weak enough, it cannot stand any load, and will act like this. And you will itch your head because you think that it doesn't seem to make sence at all. I guess your alt./reg. is broken. that's it!

[dave-r]

I assume the alternator was tested with some sort of regulator? Otherwise output goes up with rpm.

Normally when a regulator fails the alternator output goes up with rpm and you overcharge the batter, causing it to boil.

You don't want more than 14.5 volts with a normal lead/acid battery otherwise it will boil like that.
Maintainance free batterys however need 15 volts to charge.

I still think there is a bit of a short somewhere.

[patrick]

I do not want to sound negative, i just want to say my meaning in this. I think the stock alternators are nothing else but real
J U N K. I have been thrue 3 of them and two regulators the last 4 seasons. Lot's of problems with no charging, everything between 10Volts to 13-14 Volts... not enough to ignition, running stereo, electric fan etc... Now i run with a 70 Amp BOSCH with internal regulator. No more problems! Constant 14,5 Volts if i remember correct... This i recommend you guys that can live with the fact that you will not have a stock alternator, or stock factory look. But they are solid and you can thrust them, & they WILL work! Much more realiable! No affence to the rest of you that feel you have no problems with standard chrysler alternators. I hope you don't mind.. This is my oppinion only!

Btw, maybe you could test another regulator, see what happens?
(From my experience, i think that the volts can seem to be ok when you meassure, but the amps can play you around a bit when the alternators are done. This will get you very confused, it looks like you have volts enough but still not. When these alternators, regulators are done they ARE done, not realible at all... It is like they can have enough volts without any load, but when you are getting in to use some lights etc, out on some charge on the battery, then there is not enough, the alternator is to weak, very, very confusing and irritating) The ammeter will act like this even without any short, i guess you do not have any short (hope not) "could be" but, if the alternator or/and regulator start to get weak enough, it cannot stand any load, and will act like this. And you will itch your head because you think that it doesn't seem to make sence at all. I guess your alt./reg. is broken. that's it!

Jimiboy, I have run into this. What Bosch, Alternator do you use? I highly recommened Bosch, product's. Or, at least, I use to, Back in the 90's. Still use Bosch Platnum Plug's, in the Mopar. Check them once in a while, stick them back in. Good Product!

[Jimiboy]

I think whatever BOSCH alternator from a modern car (That seem to fit or be fitted with minor modification), with regulator built in should make satisfaction. I picked mine 70A from an old -88 Saab 900... Some minor mods. with distances only to make it fit. Easy!
I know they are not expensive at all to buy new, and can be bought as Bosch "universal" type, like as 12 V, 65 Ah, Looks like this.


I wonder what happened with Kevins by the way... I hope he sorted it out.

[patrick]

Thank's Jim! Already settled for a N.A.P.A., Chrysler rebuild. $60.00 U.S. Three year warrenty. If this one go's Tit's Up, I'm gonna check into a Bosch!

[dave-r]

Denso do a good little one wire alternator. A guy I know makes billet brackets to fit them to mopars down near the crank pulley out of the way.